So that being said
This post is a brief over view of what it takes to pull the motor. I would love to put in more pic's but my flicker acct is just about full and I have other stuff for future projects that Im going to want to use. So unless the AZ guys can open up my pic folder some of you are just going to have to do more reading then looking.
Keep in mind that taking out the motor is not the hardest thing in the world and Not every ELE connection is pointed out. You kinda have to go common sense on some things. This should help give good pointers and things to look out for. I will leave some pages open for editing so in the future we can fill them in with more hints and info. Once again I have more pic's to add but don't have a host site to do it. So the pic's added are the ones I find more important. Things like pulling out your shifter can be located else where so there is no info on that and other things that most people should know how to do by default. For instance if you can't notice that there is still a plug on the front bumper when you are removing it and that you need to remove the belly pan and the coolant tank to pull the motor then this might be too big for you to handle
Here are all the places you need to look at to get the front end off the car. Keep in mind the front bumper has several ELE connections and the head light washers. When you are getting ready to remove the front bumper you are going to need to go to the driver side and disconnected the line for the head light washer, Have a washer fluid bottle handy.
Ok so here is the thing. When you are ready to pull back the core support. This means you have removed the 7 T45 bolts and the T30 side bolts with only the Top 4 T30 bolts left. Here is what I did that worked quite well for me. take out bolt 2. Then take out bolt 1 and move hole 1 in the core support over hole 2 in the body. Or pull the core forward and use the screw to hold the core in place.
Make sure you keep enough room so you can get to the RAD hose clamps. See that below
This is not the B6 core support. But is is very close and lets you see what is under you bumper. You can see now where the LONG 8mm bolts go that are in the bumper it self as well as the rest of the lay out mentioned above.
Ok so you will notice that in this last picture there is the AC condenser right in front of the motor. This can just be swung out of the way. But the AC unit it self will cause an issue for the motor to move too far. So you have some decisions to make. One you can remove the AC unit from the motor. This is not hard but it is also not easy to reinstall. I have just come to the conclusion that it is easiest to just detach the AC lines and drain the AC from the system. //////// NOTE ////// the Ac unit uses a more environment friendly component not the old freon or even R12 that was Bad for the environment. Recharging the AC is almost as easy as it is to empty it. They have several DYS systems that go from 25-85$ I ended up getting some better tools but the small DYS units work well and there SOOOOO simple you would be amazed.
So you can remove some of the AC lines at this time or you can just swing the AC condenser out of the way.
Next thing you need to do is to pull out the PSC or the power steering cooler. The PSC is shown in the pic above as the black squiggly tube that is in front of the AC condenser. This is just a long twisting section of tube that runs the power steering fluid threw to cool it. But on our car the lines to the cooler go threw the core support. Best thing to do is to just remove the PSC lines from the PSC. Leave the PSC unit attached to the core support but remove the rubber lines from it.
To do this locate the lines on the motor side of the core support. You can obviously follow the lines to the PSC from under the car. Just remove these 2 hoses and install small bolts to stop the PS fluid from draining out. At this time it is a good idea to remove the line from the power steering as well
Now you are ready to pull forward the core support and disconnect the Rad hoses from the RAD. This can stump some of you that may not have done it before. So here is a reference pic of that you are doing
What you see is the clip that surrounds the rad hose and connects and holds it to the Rad it self. You need to pull this clip ALL THE WAY up. Or you can remove it completely to make sure you are good. This connection is very tight on the rad so expect a fight to get it off. I use some WD40 and spray around the RAD connection to the hose on the inside. Then I use a dead blow hammer and a Flathead screw driver to tap the hose off the RAD. (from the back side) This will make more sense when you see it and try to do it.
There are 2 hoses connected to the RAD one on the lower driver side (hardest one to get off) and the upper passenger side. be sure to have a bucket or pan to catch the fluid that is coming out. Take off the lower driver side first once the fluid is coming out. Take off the cap from the coolant tank reservoir this will help get the fluid flowing faster
At this stage you should have a good amount of coolant drained. Before you pull the Core support off you will have to observe all the ELE connections on the core support and take off the hood release cable. This is easy just look where the hood latch is and you will see the cable with a ball on the end. You can just push the entire thing out of the spot you will see its easy. Then just pull the cable out of the way and tuck it in where the ECU box is. As for the rest of the ELE connections They should be obvious at this time. Remove the supporting bolts and start sliding the core support forward making sure to continue to drain the coolant and disconnect the ELE connections
You should now be at this stage
REFERENCE pic only
So now at this time you have removed the entire front of the car and you should be looking at this. Notice the two lines on the driver side. There are red rags stuffed in them with a bolt. If you have a automatic you will have to remove the trans cooler lines that go into the Rad. with a 6 speed this is not an issue
From here the next thing to do is to You need to remove all the Aux Rad connections. Don't spend too much time looking threw all the hoses. Just take off the ones that either go over or under the frame rail. There is about 5 hoses to disconnect. ONLY TAKE OFF THE ONES THAT GO OVER OR UNDER THE FRAME RAIL. once you start taking off the rest of them you will just see later you didn't need to do that. Leave the Aux rads where they are they don't get in the way.....
This next little part is to show you what you would have to do if you decided to not take off the AC lines. ITS A PITA
Now if you don't want to spend the money and refill the system. It is going to take about 1 to 2 more hours. but I will help if you take this route. You need to remove all the Aux connections as usual. But now you need to remove the water pump and remove the driver side motor mount and bracket. To do this you will need to prop up that side of the motor. Then from there you need to take out the 3 bolts that hold in the AC unit and then unscrew the shaft that connects the AC unit to the drive system
Here is a pic of the AC drive shaft (the black shaft) and the motor mount
After you remove them you can swing out the AC unit. Then you will be looking at this. Notice that the Water pump is removed and the AC unit is removed as well. Also notice how you can see the drive shaft for the AC still in the spot where the AC drive was. You can remove this I just left it in for refrence
This brings me to the next step. Notice all the wires on top of the motor. Those wires are from the ECU box and they cover all the ELE system for the entire car. You need to remove them from the ECU box area. Notice in the pic that there are No wires left attached to the back fire wall. You need to remove all the ELE brackets and any ele connection on the rear fire wall
Those wires come from here
Also you are going to need to go on the fire wall and remove all the wires from there. Just remove the bracket they are all connected to this is easier. Also on the back fire wall you need to remove the BROWN wires that are all held in place with the 10mm rounded off nut. VIP these are all the ground wires. ///// make sure you make note of how many there are and where they go. ////// if you don't this may prevent the car from starting on reinstall and also my cause damage to any of the needed grounded systems. Also you need to pull the negative ground strap out from the batt area all the way out to the motor area. The starter is grounded to the body just under the passenger side frame RAIL make sure to take this off as well.
The next thing your going to have to do is to remove the heater hoses. these are located just to the right of the batt. There are 2 of them you need to remove both of them by pulling them off the heater core. This is simple these are compress to release clamps. Squeeze the clamps to move them down the hose. After the just pull them back and stuff them down into the motor compartment.
Next is dropping the shifter box if you have a 6 speed manual or removing the shifter cable off the trans if its a automatic.
If it is an automatic its easy there is a ball socket attached to the side of the trans on the driver side. You can't miss it its white in color. Just push it off, its just pressed on fit tight.
If you have a 6 speed manual, you need to drop the shifter box and remove your shifter.
The next and last thing you need to do is to disconnect the drive shaft from the trans. Take out the slave cylinder. Don't pull the line off just remove the cylinder from the trans. Now you may need to drop or pull the motor out a little to get the the Allen headed bold that holds this in. Below is a reference pic of the slave cylinder just under the actual unit.
Thanks for the addition MAtt aka littleredwagen
So now you should be in a place where you can either drop the motor out of the car or pull the motor out of the car. I have done both. But not too many people have a motor hoist and then again not too many people have access to a lift.
Now you need to think about what your going to do from here. If you don't have access to a car lift. Then you might want to just get a motor hoist and pull the motor from the front of the car. It comes out REAL easy. So let me touch on that real quick.
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Originally Posted by B6guy42
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