DIY: Trans Fill Automatic/Tip

[Justincredible]

Ok so there have been some posts on changing the trans pan filter and gaskets along with the fluid.

Here is a brief over view to help you out. First off there are several fluids that you can change to. But if your not beating the car up at the track. I would just use the OEM fluid from the dealer. Make sure you give them your VIN cause there are 2 kinds of fluid. Some cars get type A and some get Type B. The transmissions seem to be scattered between the years and I can't seem to nail down witch it witch. So make sure to check with the dealer.

OK few things you need to know. YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE THE CAR ON AND RUNNING WHILE YOU ARE FILLING THE FLUID. YOU WILL NEED THE CAR ON AND RUNNING IF YOU ARE JUST CHECKING THE FLUID

So keep this in mind when you are setting the car up either on a lift or on your garage floor. If you are on the garage floor it will be scary being under the car wile it is running so just know that. This might be something you want to pay to have done if you don't feel comfortable being under a running car.

OK so to do this your self you will need

T27 Torx bit
L shaped 17mm Allen key
6mm Allen key
1.5 feet of plastic tubing (you will see from the pic's)
2 drill bits one for the tubing one for the air hole (look at the pic's you will see)
Vag com and Vag cable you are going to need this for the filling of the trans
Air Compressor with air gun attachment
Drain pan
obviously a way to get the car up in the air

Here we go. Get the car up in the air as far as you can if it is on jack stands. Make sure the car is Level.

When you get under the car you will see 2 black pans. One furthest to the front of the motor is the oil pan. Keep looking back you will see the trans pan

Here is what the pan looks like


Ok as you can see there is 2 plugs on the pan. Use the one labeled Drain only. It should be a 6mm allen key. Just remove it and let the fluid run out.....now that the fluid about 3-5 quarts have come out there is still some in the pan. So what I do is to loosen all the bolts about 75% of the way. Then start taking out the bolts closest to the front of the car all the way back to the back. This will start the pan to lean forward lowering the front. Doing this will allow all the fluid in the pan to drain threw the drain only hole. Other wise you are going to have fluid on you if you try to drop the pan.

Now if your not changing the filter. Just put back in all the bolts you took out back in and fill it back up. If you are replacing the filter (I would suggest it.) you are going to drop the pan. BE CAREFULL trans fluid is still going to drip out slowly from all over the place in the trans. Not only that but when you take out the filter there is going to be more fluid. So make sure you get a catch can that is big enough to cover the area 100% under the trans pan you are going to need it.

Replacing the filter is easy just pull down and replace. Make sure the O ring is still in place.

OK so now lets look at the trans pan. Don't worry about the dimensions of the trans pan in the pic it is just a reference pic



Ok so in the pic above you can see to the far right. There is a tower with 2 flaps on it. It is like a big hollow T. The tower is the exact height for where the max fluid level should be. Any more fluid will result in the fluid going over the top part of the fill tube and back out the fill hole.
As you can see the blue part I drew in was to see how the tube would enter the pan area.

Also you will see the magnets check these for any metal and clean if needed. If you do see a good amount of metal then take pic's and asses if a rebuild may be necessary.

ok now the the next part put the filter back in and button the pan back up and get your 17mm Allen key out and remove this bolt. (I removed it before I put the pan on but that is up to you)


Now is when it gets serious. You need the car ready with the Vag com in the car. Then you need your bottles of fluid prepared.

The deal is you need to pump fluid into the pan from underneath the car. Now Im sure there is some 500$ tool you can get from Audi to do this or you can make something to push fluid up threw a fill tube that needs to go threw the hole where you removed the 17mm Allen bolt up into and threw the fill tube in the trans pan.

So I didn't want to spend any money on something I might not use again. So I just came up with this idea.



As you can see I took the bottle drilled a hole in the cap and one at the base of the neck. You take off the cap and drill a hole just small enough where you need to jam the tube threw it and push the tube to the bottom of the bottle. *****only do this to ONE cap***** after the bottle is empty just unscrew the cap (with the tube in it still) from the empty bottle. The cap and the tube should STAY TOGETHER AND STILL IN THE FILL HOLE IN THE TRANS PAN. Then screw the NEXT full bottle up to the cap

OK in the next pic you can see how you are going to pressurize the bottle



As you can see. you are taking your compressor line and hooking it up to a air gun. The air gun attachment then goes into the hole you made at the base of the neck.

When you introduce air into the bottle the pressure in the bottle will push the fluid from the bottle UP threw the tube and into the trans above.

NOTES FOR FILLING THE TRANS.

Start out putting in 3 quarts before you worry about starting the car and checking the trans temps. DON"T START THE CAR WITH NO TRANS FLUID

To get the optimal amount of fluid the trans temp needs to be between 32C and 34C. ANY lower or higher then the temps shown will result in the wrong too little or too much fluid.

So you need to start the car fire up the VAG com in the trans Module part. Then look at the temps. the trans will stay at about 32C for a while so you have about 5 min to fill. If you take too long the temps are too high and the fluid has thinned out and you will under fill it. Be quick

NOTE. You will know the fluid level is full. When you can't add anymore fluid. When you add fluid and it just over flows back out. You know you've added the proper amount.


You will need to add about 5-9 quarts if you change the filter. LOTS of fluid will seep out that you don't see. So even tho it might look like you only took out 3-5 quarts lots more seems to come out

I took off the fill hole allen bolt and put in the tube before I reinstalled the pan. This way I was sure to have the tube in the proper spot. From there I never needed to pull the tube back out till I was done cause I just removed the empty bottles from the cap and tube.

Also compressor pressure is important. But you need to know your compressor. it seems what is 25psi on my gage is not the same on other peoples compressor gage so be careful what you set the psi to.

When filling the bottle with air. KEEP YOUR HAND ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BOTTLE. When you feel the bottom of the bottle expand down under pressure stop the pressure from going into the bottle TOO much pressure in the bottle and the bottle will EXPLODE IN YOUR FACE and you will have fluid every where. So go slow and be careful

[AudiOso]

I never realized your car was a Tiptronic vehicle. My first S4 was a Tip car. Sometimes I really miss it.

[Justincredible]

Yes it is automatic. They call the trans "MECHATRONIC" now so WOW stand back big jump from the TIPTRONIC. But they are nice and Im happy with it.....ok in all reality my wife wouldn't let me get a 6 speed cause we need to have all family friendly cars LOL. But Ill tell you in the end the thing shifts fast and in most cases shifts faster then most people can. So the 13.3 @ 107 is cause the shifts are all fast. Its just the getting off the line thing that is hard. LOL

[...Mark...]

Out of curiousity anyone know how much audi wants for the tip trans flush w/ new filter?

Is it something that they would do under warranty if the car is shifting hard?

[cabracco85]

Justin thanks for another good write up. It looks like it is a big PITA to change the fluid.

[...Mark...]

When filling the bottle with air. KEEP YOUR HAND ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BOTTLE. When you feel the bottom of the bottle expand down under pressure stop the pressure from going into the bottle TOO much pressure in the bottle and the bottle will EXPLODE IN YOUR FACE and you will have fluid every where. So go slow and be careful

Why not just use something like this.

[Justincredible]

That is a great Idea you may want to leave a part # for that and a web address.

For me I still don't use more then the 1.84$ tube I got from home depo and the other tools I already have. I just can't justify spending money on something like that for the amount of time it will get used.

Altho pressurizing any container has its potential issues. It is quick and almost cost free the way I do it. I just thought more people would like to know the cost free option. But I think it is important for those that may be nervice about my way to know the other options. So if you can please post the info on that device so others can by one if wanted for the job

[...Mark...]

That is a great Idea you may want to leave a part # for that and a web address.

For me I still don't use more then the 1.84$ tube I got from home depo and the other tools I already have. I just can't justify spending money on something like that for the amount of time it will get used.

Altho pressurizing any container has its potential issues. It is quick and almost cost free the way I do it. I just thought more people would like to know the cost free option. But I think it is important for those that may be nervice about my way to know the other options. So if you can please post the info on that device so others can by one if wanted for the job

Trust me, I hear you and can appreciate the cost free option. At the same time though, I don’t have compressor so a manual pump like the one I posted would be the route that I would go. Besides knowing my luck if I had a compressor I would probably blow up a few bottles of really expensive gear oil before I got it right.

BTW that pump is only $5 at harbor freight. I actually got one on sale for $4.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66418

[ClarkSJ]

Transmission filter and gasket at Word Impex:

http://www.worldimpex.com/search_by_...tegory_id=1065

About $34.00

The fluid is a big mystery. Even with VIN, it seems you have to match the color of what comes out. Big difference in price too. I am wondering if I should just pull the info off the tranny label and go with ZF's recommended fluid for that version.

Very helpful post.

[evomhcs]

It looks pretty much the same as the transmission fill up on my b5 Passat. I have this homemade tool at the end which is a hook shape and hangs from the fill hole and I used a regular hand pump from Autozone. I'll post up some pictures of it.

For the meantime here's the write up for the pump. I'm not sure if the pictures are still active though. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=174429

[S-Fore]

Good write up. I just went through all of this with my car, at the dealer and with the Tech. Since it is under warranty, I took it in to have the valve covers checked (were seaping and replaced) and I complained about the tranny downshifting hard into 1st approaching a stop. He explained this whole process, and yes there is some special thing that they use to fill the tranny. When the car reaches temp, any over-filled fluid would just dump out (the fluid expands so this temp gives the truest reading of fluid level. He explained that he would check for any codes, and check the fluid level, however, that Audi has designed the tranny to be maintenance free for it life span and anything other than a code or fluid that they just replace the unit.

[jfunkey]

Great write up very thuro.

the hand pump takes for ever so I can see why some might now want that way to go. The compressure is WAY faster for sure but also WAY more dangerous if you blow too much air into the bottle

It looks pretty much the same as the transmission fill up on my b5 Passat. I have this homemade tool at the end which is a hook shape and hangs from the fill hole and I used a regular hand pump from Autozone. I'll post up some pictures of it.

For the meantime here's the write up for the pump. I'm not sure if the pictures are still active though. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=174429

The fill tube is much different then the passat and there is no need for the hook. If anything the hook would just stop and get cought in the flap. on the passat the allen bolt just screws all the way in to the top and the fill tube is completely different

In stall the fill tube before you put the pan on is the best Idea. You need to look at it in the bentley for it all to make sence

[0396]

Thanks for this great write-up.. When I decide to perform this -all is need is to find a hoist so as to keep the car level while filling the trans.

[akaEsCo01]

Nice right up, but a hand pump or a big syringe will do the job too. Also a tip to anyone doing this, always make sure you can open the fill hole before you drain the trans. no sense in draining if you can't fill it back up.

[guzerone]

How much fluid did you need to fill it up again?
Looks like 9 qt is the total capacity but you'll never get all the ATF out (the torque converter alone takes a few quarts). Did you need the whole 9 or more like 5 or 6 quarts?
At $50 a quart (G060162A2 at genuinevwaudiparts.com), I'd like to avoid ordering more than I really need.

Gunter

[Justincredible]

How much fluid did you need to fill it up again?
Looks like 9 qt is the total capacity but you'll never get all the ATF out (the torque converter alone takes a few quarts). Did you need the whole 9 or more like 5 or 6 quarts?
At $50 a quart (G060162A2 at genuinevwaudiparts.com), I'd like to avoid ordering more than I really need.

Gunter

The converter takes quite a bit. depending on what you did and how long you had the pan off for the converter should still have some in it.

100% dry its 11qt that the trans will take. Its hard to say some of the people I help change there trans fluid they take 9 some take 5. It just depends on how fast and how involved. I would say shoot for 7.

If you want to save some money get redline fluid that is what I used

[guzerone]

Which Redline ATF did you use, the D4 ATF (recommended for ZF 5-speed autos)?
What was the impact on the way the transmission shifts and how many miles have you put on it since?

[jaykato]

I just called Redline and was told to use D4 on my 2005.5 S4.

[jaykato]

I know old thread, but this is the only thread helpful for an ATF change.

[Justincredible]

I know old thread, but this is the only thread helpful for an ATF change.

Thanks I don't remember off the top of my head what I used. But I think it was newer then D4.. But ill have to check on that.. I used red line for a long time with no issues

[ClarkSJ]

Changed the fluid and filter in my '05 TIP today following this writeup. Redline D4 fluid. Made it very easy to do. Thanks for a great writeup!

[Justincredible]

Changed the fluid and filter in my '05 TIP today following this writeup. Made it very easy to do. Thanks for a great writeup!

Thanks for posting. Glad it could help.

[ADynamics]

I was thinking of doing the same change using the D4 on my tiptronic. I'm interested on how it is shifting for you, did you notice any improvements. I was initially torn in getting the Audi G055 fluid vs D4. Do you know any difference between them two and can they be mixed? They Audi fluid is supposedly to be made by Shell following M-1375.4 spec but why the price difference $60 vs $10 per liter.

[ClarkSJ]

Just a short follow up. I was experiencing some harsh 2-3 shifts after filling at 32-34C per this writeup. It seemed the fluid may have been low, so I checked the Bentley manual, which says the following:

The ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid drips out of the inspection hole (this is normal as the fluid expands as it heats up) at an ATF temperature between 35 degree C and 45 degree C (for hot countries 50 degree C).

So I leveled the car and pulled the check plug at 35C this morning-- no fluid dripping. At 39C it took a little over one more quart to fill. Now the shifts are smooth and almost seamless.

So if you're having an issue with shifting after doing this PM, you may want to check your level at 35-40C fluid temps and add more fluid if necessary. This is an easy PM to do on any TIP using this writeup, and it will improve the tranny performance. My fluid at 67K was pretty bad, almost black.

[ClarkSJ]

I was thinking of doing the same change using the D4 on my tiptronic. I'm interested on how it is shifting for you, did you notice any improvements. I was initially torn in getting the Audi G055 fluid vs D4. Do you know any difference between them two and can they be mixed? They Audi fluid is supposedly to be made by Shell following M-1375.4 spec but why the price difference $60 vs $10 per liter.

The OEM fluid for my 2005 B6 S4 Tip with ZF 6HP-19 6 speed is ZF Lifeguard6. I have found a source for this ZF fluid at about $18/liter. Same shape bottle as Audi fluid. Out of stock right now as the BMW people discovered it and cleaned out the retailer. But more in stock next week.

http://www.thectsc.com/

[Justincredible]

Just a short follow up. I was experiencing some harsh 2-3 shifts after filling at 32-34C per this writeup. It seemed the fluid may have been low, so I checked the Bentley manual, which says the following:

The ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid drips out of the inspection hole (this is normal as the fluid expands as it heats up) at an ATF temperature between 35 degree C and 45 degree C (for hot countries 50 degree C).

So I leveled the car and pulled the check plug at 35C this morning-- no fluid dripping. At 39C it took a little over one more quart to fill. Now the shifts are smooth and almost seamless.

So if you're having an issue with shifting after doing this PM, you may want to check your level at 35-40C fluid temps and add more fluid if necessary. This is an easy PM to do on any TIP using this writeup, and it will improve the tranny performance. My fluid at 67K was pretty bad, almost black.

OK I just checked the Bentley and it says nothing about going to 40C. You should not fill the trans after 37C. What you need to know is that you need to fill your trans till fluid JUST starts coming out of the fill stack.

You just didn't add enough transmission fluid the first time.

Here is why.

If you added enough the first time when you pulled the fill plug to add you would have gotten fluid to come out and you would not have been able to add fluid. Bottom line you continue to add fluid UP till 35C, You just we not able to add enough in the time it took.

Notes

If you add enough transmission fluid in between the temps given. You will know your done when You won't be able to add more. The fill stack will over flow when you have added enough and the trans can take no more.

DO NOT check your trans fluid past 37C. DO NOT DO THIS FOR FILL OR INSPECTION.
The higher the temps you check your fluid at the more it will tell you, you have. As hot fluid thins out and your trans-fluid will thin out by well over 2 quarts at higher temps.

IF you go to check or fill the fluid at temps of higher then 34C. What this means is that your actually adding less fluid (our you didn't add enough the first time) because the fluid is thinning out in the transmission. So at 40C your fluid might read full and in actual spec its not due to needing to check your transmission fluid at cold temps.

FYI ANY CAR>>> ANY car new or old your check your transmission fluid levels when there just below operational temps


As for fluid Ive found that the Red line fluid works the best even compared to the OEM and its 1/2 the price of the OEM fluid at about 9$.

22 transmission flush and fills for people over 2 years its holding up strong

[beemercer]

TOO much pressure in the bottle and the bottle will EXPLODE IN YOUR FACE and you will have fluid every where. So go slow and be careful

haha, I wonder if this advice comes from a personal experience with the bottle popping...

[ClarkSJ]

OK I just checked the Bentley and it says nothing about going to 40C. You should not fill the trans after 37C. What you need to know is that you need to fill your trans till fluid JUST starts coming out of the fill stack.

You just didn't add enough transmission fluid the first time.

Here is why.

If you added enough the first time when you pulled the fill plug to add you would have gotten fluid to come out and you would not have been able to add fluid. Bottom line you continue to add fluid UP till 35C, You just we not able to add enough in the time it took.

Notes

If you add enough transmission fluid in between the temps given. You will know your done when You won't be able to add more. The fill stack will over flow when you have added enough and the trans can take no more.

DO NOT check your trans fluid past 37C. DO NOT DO THIS FOR FILL OR INSPECTION.
The higher the temps you check your fluid at the more it will tell you, you have. As hot fluid thins out and your trans-fluid will thin out by well over 2 quarts at higher temps.

IF you go to check or fill the fluid at temps of higher then 34C. What this means is that your actually adding less fluid (our you didn't add enough the first time) because the fluid is thinning out in the transmission. So at 40C your fluid might read full and in actual spec its not due to needing to check your transmission fluid at cold temps.

FYI ANY CAR>>> ANY car new or old your check your transmission fluid levels when there just below operational temps


As for fluid Ive found that the Red line fluid works the best even compared to the OEM and its 1/2 the price of the OEM fluid at about 9$.

22 transmission flush and fills for people over 2 years its holding up strong

Your Bentley manual must be different than mine. Mine clearly states what I posted above-- that the ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid drips between 35 and 45 degree C. It also states that, if no fluid drips by 45 degrees C, you should add fluid until you start to see come drip out.

For reference, Audi > A4, S4 (B6, B7) > 2002-2008 6 Spd. Automatic Transmission 09L all Wheel Drive, Section 37, Diagnosis and Testing, ATF, Checking Level and Correcting

ZF's manual for this transmission also states that fluid should be checked at between 35-40 degrees C.

I agree that Redline D4 seems to work fine, but if someone wants OEM fluid they can get it from the ZF distributor at about half of dealer prices.

[Justincredible]

Your Bentley manual must be different than mine. Mine clearly states what I posted above-- that the ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid drips between 35 and 45 degree C. It also states that, if no fluid drips by 45 degrees C, you should add fluid until you start to see come drip out.
.

No I just think there is a miss understanding. You said this.

[COLOR="black"]Just a short follow up. I was experiencing some harsh 2-3 shifts after filling at 32-34C per this writeup. It seemed the fluid may have been low, so I checked the Bentley manual, which says the following:

It can't read low if you fill it properly.. How can it read low? if you fill it properly fluid will come out. So the only way it can read low is if you don't add enough fluid when the trans is at the 32-35c

AS YOU WILL HAVE MORE FLUID IN YOUR TRANS IF YOU FILL TO FULL IT AT 32C then if you fill it to full at 45C

So the only way it can read low is if you never added enough fluid the first time. does this make sense

[WolfS4]

Torque specs on the pan bolts?