My AEB 366XL solid head build

[speeding-g60]

derail away. its the theme here on AZ i understand.

i'm easy. haha

but its now 9:40 Pacific Time, making it now 12:40 Jake's time, nighty night Grasshopper....

its only just getting on hot-tub:30 here and you know what that means....

[speeding-g60]

go to bed Jake...

[djwimbo]

He's still online... Or his status says so anyways

[pete@integrated]

This is sooo last page... But 3652's work great with eurodyne 1000cc. Just tell chris what cams you have. Mine started and idles fine at 800 lol... well, it's lumpy, but it idles just fine. Need some more parts and i'll have it mobile.

Marc is using 3652's, fwiw.

[speeding-g60]

i use cast 3652's in the rabbit and its great....

and this car is 3756 Billets and i know it will be great. i hear there is a pulley arrived to joey and some dial gauges or something of the like. for degreeing of the cams, intercam timing, etc.

Pete, ever mess with any of that yet? intercam timing? i know my Honda buddies realize some serious gains changing that around on their setups....

[speeding-g60]

today i finished mounting the AWIC reservoir. i would have fitted and tacked the ports, but a friend has borrowed my TIG machine. and i have the coolant reservoir designed and located in the car. now just to finish building it.

my major step today was to do the car harness. this is not the motor harness, but basically all the rest of the wiring. all the gauges, dash panels, switches, etc. next step is to make a relay plate and mount it, mount fuse block, etc. i like to make my own wiring stuff, its cool.... this is all easily removed panels for cluster and console. Molex are the shit. solder, heat shrink, multi colors... its all in my head.

[zerb]

ok. 1) thats beautiful 2) im envious 3) thats beautiful

[dougyfresh]

Regardless, it's bedtime... Got some BT downpipes to make tomorrow, fun fun...

Yeah. DO Werk on those two B6 downpipes

[speeding-g60]

axles arrived, and no they are not "normal" axles. hubs have press-in studs, all new bearings. www.A1CVTech.com is THA SHIT for axles, period.

block maybe this coming week.

head is done.

[Jake39454]

Aaron, I got to play with launch control on my shit today

[dirtybrd]

Why do the inners come disassembled?

[speeding-g60]

Why do the inners come disassembled?

they come this way because there would be no way to install them into your trans or diff otherwise. there is a keeper bolt that runs thru the center of the inner hub. you have to bolt that into trans/diff, then assemble the joint. grease it up, clamp boot and your cookin with butter.

these are spline-plug inner joints. normal joints would be referred to as "open-face" cv's. no more damned triple square bolts WOOHOO!!!!!

[speeding-g60]

and i remember the term for that bolt. catheter bolt. yup, same as the medical term. (winces)

did the rear end today. brakes, axles, park brake cables, the works. also built the coolant reservoir. pretend TIG welder LOL. but i am doing it myself, only way to learn is to get out and DO IT.

also did a front brakes job for a neighbor. gives new meaning to "Will work for BEER" got an 18 outta it :)

craptastical celly pix.

[djwimbo]

I like the way you do things.

Those two CV's on the right look like Ford axles.

[dougyfresh]

Pete, ever mess with any of that yet? intercam timing? i know my Honda buddies realize some serious gains changing that around on their setups....

We tried using the VVT solenoid on my car (3651 cams) but the limitations of that solenoid and factory control logic showed no real gains. I'm sure if you have a better solenoid and better control logic something might work. I'd have to do some more research into how the Honda motors switch over to better understand how to adapt something like that to a 20V VAG head.

[speeding-g60]

i am talking with the actual cam gears on the chain end. not VIA a VVT style tensioner or anything. that only works for cold startup and does not do too much as it is.

the Billet cams (and all CAT cams now) come with gears that bolt on, on the chain end. dont know if they are dial-in capable, but it would be cool if it were.

[mike-2ptzero]

i am talking with the actual cam gears on the chain end. not VIA a VVT style tensioner or anything. that only works for cold startup and does not do too much as it is.

the Billet cams (and all CAT cams now) come with gears that bolt on, on the chain end. dont know if they are dial-in capable, but it would be cool if it were.

So 2 small adjustable cam gears on the back side, basically like how the Evo guys put 2 adjustables on their cams but on the front side? Would be cool but hard to do since there is very little room and it would be very hard to adjust them while in the head.

[Issam@INA]

Or just run dual cam gears like I did.

[speeding-g60]

ya, that motor ever run?

[speeding-g60]

still plinking away.

made windshield support brace. pretty large surface area to run 1/8" lexan without some stiffener help. 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum angle bracing right down the middle.





and i made the fuse/relay plate, and started the wiring. i am going to final paint the interior up front, so the dash and wiring can go in and stay in. ECU will mount down low below the fuse panel. i am sort of a nerd when it comes to wiring, i like things to be nice and simple.

[317ssayzarc]

It's getting there Aaron, that point is near, I feel it...

[speeding-g60]

nowhere near. thoughts are seriously running the pink motor to "break in" the chassis and deal with the big motor at a later date.

YGPM... or AIM, wherever i see you next.

[zerb]

so. i say you fly out here for waterfest, and then come up to my house and wire my car, lol.

and btw, label maker machines + custom wiring = win

[speeding-g60]

well, its been decided. the rabbit is GUTTED as of now. no complete front end. no axles, no struts, no spindles, motor, trans, nothing is left in it. will complete the gut tomorrow. catch cans, fuel cell, rad reservoir, all that will come out and go into storage.

the shitter is that i think it has an Auto crank. which fucks me, as now it appears that i will have to swap the crank from the spare AEB block into it just to run it. unless i can have the pilot bearing put into it without removing it from the block for machining then i would be set.

but i thought and thought, and my move makes sense. last year, the rabbit chassis was tuned (susp, brakes, launch, etc) already, so when i dropped in the motor it was good to go.

this season, i will run the chassis in with an already tuned ( well >500 WHP) motor setup. just using the new turbo is all. this way i dont have to worry about the motor, just need to fiddle with the brakes, suspension, etc. and throw in the big motor at a later date when the car has made a few passes down the track and can stop, etc.

wish i would have thought about this months ago while waiting for the new motor to be finished. oh well.

[speeding-g60]

so i sent the manual crank from the spare block off today to be polished up. new bearings and thrust and seals, and the pink motor goes in to the coupe. this gives me the time to make the driver side mount and do some other stuff now....

but this goes against my original idea of always having one car available to track. now i again have none. oh well.... it will all work out, as this is a preamble for the rabbit to be swapped to RWD....

[speeding-g60]

some quick pictures, everyone likes them.

pulled the manual crank from the spare block, sent out today for polishing etc. since i run main studs in this motor, no new parts. bearings had 20 passes and ~40 dyno pulls, but replacing them cuz its cheap. new thrusts, too. and seals while we are there.

just gotta swap out the auto crank for manual, and make a driver side mount. that is tomorrow.... will use the >550WHP (2wd mind you) ((pink motor)) tune and setup with the new big turbo. so it will be close to the same output, less for drivetrain loss.

the pink motor is 3652's in a worked over AWP head. 82mm pistons, 144mm rods, 86.4mm stroke = 1825cc. springs and retainers only in head, on Raceware headstuds. OEM lifters, valves, etc.

the big motor is 3756 solid lifters in a non-ported AEB head. 83.5mm pistons, custom 150mm rods, 86.4mm stroke = 1895cc. springs, retainers, ex valves and +1mm intakes, solid lifters, ARP headbolts.

the pink motor runs 1000cc injectors on C-16. the big motor will run 1600cc injectors on E85. but that change will happen after it is run in on the old tune and C-16. new cams, etc, run @ 2k rpm for 20 minutes. low boost load pulls to seat rings. blah blah blah. and on to some goofy pix. i like doin weird shit like this, dont ask me why. i think it looks cool like this is all. definitely looks bigger out of the car than in it for sure.











and the kind donor of this kick ass pink motor.

[HTA A4]

I like your style!

[speeding-g60]

and done. AEB/058 block now resides in the chassis. minor modification to the back side mount, had to add a spacer for the lower bolt, and just clearance a tiny bit around the water port.

had to make an all new driver/front side mount, as i knew i would. cool thing about my setup is that with one or the other motor mounts missing, the motor does not budge, fall, lean, drift, or any other movement. it stays put. so it was semi-simple to make the mount. first mod the rear mount. then make the plating for the block itself. and that kinda sucked because the 4 bolt holes i used are all on different planes. oh well, that shit goes nowhere.

so bolt on the rear mount, slap motor into place and make the trans to motor bolts, bolt the mount, done and in place. then it was just a matter of making both plates mate up after i made a new mount plate for the body side...

[Sales@RAI]

nice, good work

[speeding-g60]

been workin on stuff.... lots of stuff.

got the AWIC system finalized.

got the engine bay painted up all nice and pretty. was all black. then Derek comes by to pick up the TIG machine and brings a good point to the table; lighter colors set things off and make it brighter and easier to see. A LA rally car stylez.... also can spot stuff like leaks easier against a lighter backdrop as well.

have more stuff completed, just not pictured yet. floor of car will be black. interior silver. bay silver. cage and tube work dark bronze.....





and of course, my little shop helper.... he helps me FROM getting stuff done...

[20vpower]

oh i thought that was going to be your driver. you gotta save weight anyway you can lol

[zerb]

youre getting closer and closer. and i am envious.

...i wish i had a friend that could paint.

[speeding-g60]

just rattlecan on the cage and bay.... Hammerite. its pretty tuff stuff.

and the friend that paints for me only does it when he wants to (repay the multitudes of favors/loans i give to him) which is not often. shit, he had my doors for like 5 months or something retarded.... before he finally shot them.

today i built the whole *final* front end..... brakes, axles (well, i forgot the pass side (done first) axle, but i am out now to go do it) spindles, tie rods, the works. also ran new brake lines to both front brakes. i may just do the rear lines as well, stuff is cheap enough and easy to do.... and this will complete the suspension and drivetrain work. i forgot to grab an extra couple quarts of brake fluid. i will flush the lines as i bleed. not that there is anything left in them, they been open for so long. but still, push out and toss the crap.

also did some wiring. wired in the panel to the console/cluster. checked switch function and relay function. all is well as is to be expected.

we goin now to go get the fluids.... and bleed brakes. man this is getting close, you are right.

when yours gonna be done?

[zerb]

really? that looks pretty f-in good for some rattlecan

[speeding-g60]

brakes bled in ~10 minutes... Motive rocks!!! Speedi-bleeders help too maybe... cant go wrong with all the hi-tech shit.

gonna skip the pass front axle for the evening. think i am just gonna relax (as if its possible with a hyper active 2.5 yr old) haha.

[zerb]

i gots to finish up the rear bars for the cage this week hopefully....gotta get another piece of tubing to go from strut tower to tower in the rear then run the bars from the main hoop to that. brakes are all on, fuel lines are ran, finished up the exhaust today and dropped it off to get welded nicely....at least the downpipe, the rest ill just do at my house with my little MIG. dash/gauges are wired up. gotta run the Painless panel i have for the lights and such, but thats last last. fabrication is pretty much done, just waiting on a little stud thingy for the oil filter for the mocal plate. put it all together and make sure its all good....then take it all apart, pull motor, paint bay, build motor, put back in and button up.

[speeding-g60]

my welder buddy just finished this up for me. the coolant housing off the end of the head is plastic from factory and i do not need all the ports nor do i use factory style sensors. so we made one up using a 42dd flange and some other parts/bungs to suit my needs. this guy can weld, too....

[Jake39454]

NUBS!!!

[zerb]

im assuming youre going to stick the coolant temp sensors for the ECU and the gauge right theres?

[speeding-g60]

gauge, ECU, and coolant res.... and of course upper radiator port.