Who Has cat cams 3652's??? I need your help!!!!URGENT

[20vturbo]

what is the epc in the dash? and why is not idling now?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I would say your MAF may have just took a crap, but you don't have a MAF. Guess you need a VAG COM!!!

When you say not idling do you mean you start it and it will die or it is just running really crappy at idle?

[20vturbo]

it's hard to start and when it starts when I let go the gas it dies....I am just looking through the bentley now The epc is indeed connected with the tb...I don't have a vag com because this stupid computer doesn't have a com port and I have to get the usb cable..I have to hook me up with a real rosstech cable

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Sounds like the throttle body may have just went bad. Mine went bad once. I had a code that said something about the throttle body to confirm it. Mine was weird though, the car would go into boost and then fall on its face (the throttle was closing) then it would work fine then it would do it everytime. Then right before it went the car was idling a little high at like 1300rpm and was real rich.

You really need to get a VAC COM hooked to the car and that will tell you everything.

Maybe try unplugging the throttle body and then plug it back in to be sure for some reason it isnt getting a bad connection.

[20vturbo]

anyone know a junkyard that has a b6 tiptronic..Right by the brake booster there is a the brake booster pressure sensor and i need it to wire the vacuum pump

[20vturbo]

After checking the wiring diagrams I found out how the vacuum pump works...There is a pressure sensor behind the firewall in all tiptronic cars, but that pressure sensor does not turn the pump on, it tells the ecm when the pressure in the booster is low to turn the pump on..It is too complicated even impossible to make this work the factory way...I have to source an aftermarket vacuum switch and rewire the pump, it's the easiest way

[diagnosticator]

Yes, an adjustable pressure switch* wired to actuate the vac pump as needed is the way to go here. I recommend you use a relay in the power supply for the pump motor, the switch will be connected to actuate the relay control terminals "85" and "86", contacts with the motor + connected to the "87" terminal and the motor negative grounded near the motor mounting. The "30" relay terminal is connected via a fuse to a positive buss connection or the battery + post.
* with a pressure set point at the appropriate absolute pressure to turn on the pump motor at the desired pressure increasing, then off again at the set point selected, decreasing. The pressure switch will have some hysteresis that is different for increasing or decreasing pressure, but that is a requirement so that the pump doesn't cycle on/off constantly when the actual pressure is near the set point pressure setting. Either the ON or the OFF set point can be precisely selected, but not both at the same time, as determined by the specifications of the pressure switch used.

I might have a suitable pressure switch on hand in my hardware inventory, I can check and let you know if I have one available.

[dougyfresh]

What can be wrong in the assembling of the head??The guy that did it did several vw heads, the head on the autoextreme car is done by him...I can't possibly see anything other than a valve lock not beeing fully in??
Do you have any ideeas??

It is not uncommon.

Regardless, I want you to put smaller fuel injectors (quiet ones) in and see if the noise goes away.

With the extent that we are pushing these motors, you can not jump to conclusions and cut corners. Bad things will happen. I have seen too many people on these forums in the past couple of years cut corners (even the slightest) and ultimately had a blown motor. I know how much you've worked on this and I don't want to see that happen to you.

/end of my comments. I think I've beat this horse enough...

[mike-2ptzero]

Yes, an adjustable pressure switch* wired to actuate the vac pump as needed is the way to go here. I recommend you use a relay in the power supply for the pump motor, the switch will be connected to actuate the relay control terminals "85" and "86", contacts with the motor + connected to the "87" terminal and the motor negative grounded near the motor mounting. The "30" relay terminal is connected via a fuse to a positive buss connection or the battery + post.
* with a pressure set point at the appropriate absolute pressure to turn on the pump motor at the desired pressure decreasing, then off again at the set point selected, increasing. The pressure switch will have some hysteresis that is different for increasing or decreasing pressure, but that is a requirement so that the pump doesn't cycle on/off constantly when the actual pressure is near the set point pressure setting. Either the ON or the OFF set point can be precisely selected, but not both at the same time, as determined by the specifications of the pressure switch used.

I might have a suitable pressure switch on hand in my hardware inventory, I can check and let you know if I have one available.

If using a 5 pin relay I would suggest using 87 for main power and 30 to the motor, this way the center pin(87a) is not hot all the time when the relay is not activated by the switch. Using 30 as the main power is fine if using a 4 pin relay since there wont be an extra pin that is hot all the time. For pins 85/86 I would suggest running one of them to a key power source and the other one to a switch as a ground source to activate the relay. This why the switch part of the relay doesn't have constant power while the car is off.

[diagnosticator]

If using a 5 pin relay I would suggest using 87 for main power and 30 to the motor, this way the center pin(87a) is not hot all the time when the relay is not activated by the switch. Using 30 as the main power is fine if using a 4 pin relay since there wont be an extra pin that is hot all the time. For pins 85/86 I would suggest running one of them to a key power source and the other one to a switch as a ground source to activate the relay. This why the switch part of the relay doesn't have constant power while the car is off.

That is a good tip, thanks for posting that!

[20vturbo]

That is a good tip, thanks for posting that!

There sia switch on summitt specific for vacuum pumps Would that work?

[diagnosticator]

There sia switch on summitt specific for vacuum pumps Would that work?

If the switch is intended for vac pumps to boost brake booster vacuum, then probably yes. What are the specific specs given?

[20vturbo]

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

This is it I think it turns on at 5inhg and shuts off at 25inhg

[diagnosticator]

That will work. It is a switch screwed into a cast aluminum tee fitting, provided as an assembly.

[B6Lovin]

if all else fails, physically inspect your throttle body... do you have the q7 TB or the .:R32? (the q7 has a plastic butterfly, the R has a metal one)

my q7 body literally broke in half... caused a lot of the same symptoms you're having

[20vturbo]

if all else fails, physically inspect your throttle body... do you have the q7 TB or the .:R32? (the q7 has a plastic butterfly, the R has a metal one)

my q7 body literally broke in half... caused a lot of the same symptoms you're having

the one with the plastic flap

[20vturbo]

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S

Control Module Part Number: 8E0 UNI 518 BT
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/630 *G 0003
Software Coding: 0016701
Work Shop Code: WSC 78901
2 Faults Found:
17939 - Camshshaft Timing Adjustment: Open Circuit
P1531 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
17695 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs Turbocharger diverter valve Open circuit
P1287 - 004 - Please Register/Activate

Both of them because the plugs are disconnected....Although the car runs on 3 the check engine didn't pop and no flashing cel


I just got these now Car runs like a subaru

I ahd 10 codes b4 that i saved in the vag com but I don't know where they are

[dirtybrd]

So you have a open curcuit for the tens. that you don't have plugged in?

[20vturbo]

Tuesday, 19 May 2009, 22:04:40

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S



Control Module Part Number: 8E0 UNI 518 BT

Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/630 *G 0003

Software Coding: 0016701

Work Shop Code: WSC 78901

10 Faults Found:

17645 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit

P1237 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

17647 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1239 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

17648 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1240 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

17646 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Open Circuit

P1238 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

17939 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1531 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

17766 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1358 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

17769 - Cylinder 3 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit

P1361 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

17772 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1364 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

17763 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1355 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low

P1602 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent


these are the ones stored from b4...What's up with the fuel injectors??

[20vturbo]

So you have a open curcuit for the tens. that you don't have plugged in?

correct the tenssioner and the solenoid for the diverter valve..Those came back

what bugs me is that it is running on 3 but the cel won't flash nor come on..And I still have the no idle issue
Tomorrow I remove the plugs for inspection and the tb
I still claim a victory---no cam positioning sensor code so far

[20vturbo]

may be that's why my injectors are so loud, may be they're shot

[20vturbo]

if all else fails, physically inspect your throttle body... do you have the q7 TB or the .:R32? (the q7 has a plastic butterfly, the R has a metal one)

my q7 body literally broke in half... caused a lot of the same symptoms you're having

How did you do that???and it didn't go in the motor?

[B6Lovin]

the one with the plastic flap

id pull that bitch off and check it.

How did you do that???and it didn't go in the motor?

no clue how it happened. had to have been a defect, or the fact that q7 throttle bodies were probably never designed to be slammed open and shut so often under such great force. (or a combination of those things and others)

i caught it before half of the thing came off and went in the motor. it cracked right along the center "pin" all the way down both sides and separated into two pieces. it was clinging by a thread... i might have been 15 minutes of hard driving away from another engine

[Issam@INA]

Stef sorry you know I have been unavilable for the last 2 weeks...now catching up.

or the fact that q7 throttle bodies were probably never designed to be slammed open and shut so often under such great force. (or a combination of those things and others)

Nah because MKV R32's are running around turbo now and they use the plastic throttle flaps.
Whatever the case Stef pull off that throttle body and tell me if the flap is cracked.

[20vturbo]

Stef sorry you know I have been unavilable for the last 2 weeks...now catching up.

Nah because MKV R32's are running around turbo now and they use the plastic throttle flaps.
Whatever the case Stef pull off that throttle body and tell me if the flap is cracked.

yeah but that throttle is from a q7, r32's have the metal flap, q7's plastic

[dirtybrd]

Are you sure you have the correct impedance injectors?

[Don Supreme]

Are you sure you have the correct impedance injectors?

Probably would have received a code for that, assuming the car even started.

[AudiA4_20T]

Chris how did you get so much rep all of the sudden?

[dirtybrd]

Because I'm on here everyday all day long!

[20vturbo]

the injectors are correct
Those injector and coil pack codes were there because I did a compression test and when I primed the engine with oil I cranked while they were disconnected...

[dirtybrd]

Ok.

[dougyfresh]

the injectors are correct
Those injector and coil pack codes were there because I did a compression test and when I primed the engine with oil I cranked while they were disconnected...

1) physically check the throttle body for cracks and/or breakage

2) clear the codes and drive the car. let everything adapt and then check codes again to determine what the true 'issues' are.

3) don't forget a throttle body adapt before driving the car

[20vturbo]

1) physically check the throttle body for cracks and/or breakage

2) clear the codes and drive the car. let everything adapt and then check codes again to determine what the true 'issues' are.

3) don't forget a throttle body adapt before driving the car

Yes I want to check the tb and do a compression test again just to get some thoughts out of my mind, the problem is that is raining right now and I have no cover over my drive way...
Yesterday I cleared the codes and started the car but it won't hold idle and was like running on 3, sounded like a subaru
Can I do the tb adapt with my shareware version of the vag??Where do I find it? I tried yesterday but could not find it

[dirtybrd]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/...Alignment_(TBA)

[dougyfresh]

Yes I want to check the tb and do a compression test again just to get some thoughts out of my mind, the problem is that is raining right now and I have no cover over my drive way...
Yesterday I cleared the codes and started the car but it won't hold idle and was like running on 3, sounded like a subaru
Can I do the tb adapt with my shareware version of the vag??Where do I find it? I tried yesterday but could not find it

check your PM

[20vturbo]

I removed the spark plugs they are black which is normal but 2 were wet with gas

[CO AVANT]

Check to see if you are getting spark on those wet plugs

[20vturbo]

Check to see if you are getting spark on those wet plugs

tonight when I get back..I am pretty much sure they are fouled

[B6Lovin]

Stef sorry you know I have been unavilable for the last 2 weeks...now catching up.

Nah because MKV R32's are running around turbo now and they use the plastic throttle flaps.
Whatever the case Stef pull off that throttle body and tell me if the flap is cracked.

side note - im assuming you finally got to talk to doug? if not he's been trying to get ahold of you.

x2 on what stef said, i thought the r's had a metal flapper.

still sounds like what happened to my old TB. it was cracked and leaking a LOT of air through at idle, made my car dump fuel and idle really low/rough if it even idled at all. also throttle tip-in would usually stall the car... it ran like shit, and progressively got worse to where the car didn't idle at all and i had to consistently be doing something with the throttle to keep it alive.

[20vturbo]

I just found my fuckin boost and boost control problem Major leak on the bottom chamber of the wastegate...I have a leak where the line screws in with those crush washers, must be because of the powdercoating, and there is another leak along the shaft of the valve, there should be an o ring there I think...