Hey guys I have been aware of this thread for a while, just been busy answering your phone calls and emails.
First off thanks for starting this thread and for all the excitement. I haven't had a chance to read much of this thread but browsed it really quickly. I am quite happy to see that all our hard work is appreciated. A LOT more is coming.
We have currently shipped 4 sets of these headers and have several more paid for, so we have not had a need to make a public announcement as we are still working on final options and details of the kit.
As of right now we have the following updated pictures and pricing and info for you guys.
And for giggles a pic of the stock headers we cut up before this all began.
PRICING INFO
JHM Header kit = $2500 (see pic above for all that is included)
optional - JHM lengthened primary 02 sensors = $250 (you can lengthen yours or get these)
optional - Race Catalytic Converters = $350 (Spiral Metallic Substrate) - Better for performance
optional - High Flow Catalytic Converters = $250 (400 cell)- Better for emissions
ABOUT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER OPTIONS
Obviously the High Flow cat will do better with CO, HC and Nox reduction but will take more HP than the Race Cats will. The Race cats tend to do pretty good for HC and CO but are a little limiting with Nox reduction, but obviously flow better. I was a smog tech here in California for 6 years so I am really well versed on the emissions end of this stuff. None of these are considered smog legal in the state of California and some other strict states, but this is the case with all the current downpipes out there. We have found that they will pass the tailpipe test depending on the year and cat used here in CA, but obviously the visual would fail here in CA.
ABOUT THE CONTENTS OF THE KIT AND THE INSTALL NOTES
Contents of package
1 - JHM stainless steel passenger side header
1 - JHM stainless steel drivers side header
1 - JHM stainless steel drivers side mid pipe
1 - JHM stainless steel passenger side mid pipe
2 - OEM Exhaust manifold gaskets
3 - OEM Exhaust manifold studs (to replace the 3 bolts removed)
3 - OEM Exhaust manifold nuts (to replace the 3 bolts removed)
4 - Stainless steel header flange to mid pipe bolts
8 - Stainless steel header flange to mid pipe washers for the nut side and bolt side
8 - Stainless steel header flange to mid pipe nuts, we supplied two per bolt so you can tighten one then use the 2nd nut to lock it in place so it won’t back off.
2 - Header flange to mid pipe gaskets (if you ever have issues with these gaskets we have had great experience with the use of Permatex Copper Silicone on the flanges without any gaskets)
Optional
1 - Pair of JHM lengthened primary 02 sensors
Or
1 - JHM primary 02 sensor lengthening kit (wires, connectors and covering included)
General Installation Notes
-If you did not purchase longer front 02 sensors from us, you MUST lengthen the primary (front) 02 sensor wires to reach the new 02 sensor location at the header collector. They should be lengthened by about 2 to 3 feet, if not done properly you WILL have issues with how the car runs. It is important to use high quality wire, solder all the connections and put protective covering over the wires. Or use high grade style butt connectors that require to be heat shrinked once completed (not the cheap ones at car parts stores but the good stuff found at electronics stores).
-When routing the front and rear 02 sensors further back it is VERY important you secure them so they don’t rub on anything or are close to the pipes to burn through, zip ties work really well for this. It is also important that the 02 sensors that are plugged in on the drivers side (both front and rear) are hooked up to the header and mid pipe on the drivers side and then do the same for the passenger side.
-Torque all nuts on the header to block mounting studs to 25Nm or 19ftlb.
-Once you install our additional studs you will have studs and nuts for ALL of the mounting holes.
-It is difficult to get to the lower nuts on the headers so more than likely you will have to remove the aluminum motor mount brackets to gain access. Then put the mounts back on once the headers are fully secured and tightened.
-The Alternator may have to be removed to gain access to install the headers then reinstalled once completed. Some cars need the alternator coolant pipe slightly bent as well for clearance.
-Header wrap: It is HIGHLY recommended to wrap the headers in the area where the stock manifolds were located to keep heat from the factory wiring, motor mounts, alternator and coolant pipes. You should only have to go about 1 foot at most past the end of the motor since the factory downpipes were not shielded and these travel along the same path.
-Cat back connections, fitment and power gains: Our longtube headers and mid pipes are the EXACT same length as the stock and are in the same location as stock BUT they are a larger 2.5” diameter. So depending on your cat back manufacturer (they may have necked it down to fit the stock 2.125” downpipe) you may have to cut several inches off your cat back if it was necked down. This is VERY important, if you spent this time and money to put these on the car, having a necked down exhaust will LIMIT the power gains. Also for maximum performance we highly recommend a JHM cat back or any other quality dual 2.5” cat back with an X-pipe and straight through style mufflers. 2.25” systems and systems with H-pipes will limit the power gains.
Hopefully soon we will officially announce these publicly and get them on our online store, if you want a set now give us a call.
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