Let It Begin...........2.0 Build.

[Turb_Oh_A4]

i probably will just end up keeping the 28r when it gets replaced with the 3071 just to have, plus its worth maybe a dollar.

I'll give you 2 dollars. Final Offer.

LoL, on a more serious note, This looks good! One of these days ill try and 2.0 my car.

[D.C. Designs]

looks like a fun build good luck

[rxrep]

Looking good! From an OCD clean freak, I gotta say your block and hoses looks pretty clean!

If you run across anything that is weird in what you've done so far, or what you do down the line, post it up. In weird, I mean anything that is out of the norm of what you'd think in doing this.

Mine is coming out once the winter hits. Same thing being done.

[Kamin]

The actual clutch doesn't look too bad to me, all of the fingers are in tact, nothing bent or gone... I don't know that much though, so I could be way off.

[A4natomical]

The actual clutch doesn't look too bad to me, all of the fingers are in tact, nothing bent or gone... I don't know that much though, so I could be way off.

its almost down to those stud things on the plate. another few millimeters and it'll be scraping them.

[A4natomical]

Looking good! From an OCD clean freak, I gotta say your block and hoses looks pretty clean!

If you run across anything that is weird in what you've done so far, or what you do down the line, post it up. In weird, I mean anything that is out of the norm of what you'd think in doing this.

Mine is coming out once the winter hits. Same thing being done.

clean, but not as clean as me and you like though ;)
before the engine goes back in, the bay and motor are going to have a THOROUGH cleaning.


will do. from what I can say now. we havent had any real hang-ups.(knock on wood).

One out of the norm thing is when you have everything from the engine removed that is connected to the engine bay and you are ready to pull and all you have left holding the engine in place are the bolts from the block to the trans. you'll have the bottom 3 or so bolts that are "somewhat" difficult bolts to get to, because the frame is directly in from of them. so what you want to do is: remove the bolts from the 2 engine mounts, jack up the engine and trans with two jacks until the bolts from the block to the trans are just above the frame and you'll have a clear shot to get those. and also a swivel and a bunch of extensions will be imperative. you'll need two jacks also. one supporting the trans and one to lift the engine to get the bolts.

Another thing that stumbled us for about 10 minutes was the power steering cooler. When you are about to pull the radiator/front end away. Instead of feeding the OEM power steering cooler through the hole that it runs through on the front end (it wont fit). Just cut the rubber hoses behind the radiator where they connect to the metal cooler. And you'll need some new power steering fluid, unless you recycle it back in.

As I said, there hasn't been any hangups...............yet. (knocks on wood again)

[Kamin]

its almost down to those stud things on the plate. another few millimeters and it'll be scraping them.

Ah, ok. Thanks. Still learning here.

[A4natomical]

LEE. to give you a better idea of what i was referring to. here is a pic showing where the threads are situated. (right in front of the frame).





this is also a good idea. name EVERY cable that gets unplugged.



organize your hardware.




so you dont get energized. (you might need it tho)

[absolutegtr]

very nice job

Aren't you supposed to undo the negative terminalll tho? LOL

[A4natomical]

very nice job

Aren't you supposed to undo the negative terminalll tho? LOL

not sure. the main man did it.

[ngng]

so you dont get energized. (you might need it tho)

i always disconnect the negative ground vs the positive

[AudiA4_20T]

your still killing the current through the battery, why does it matter?

[dirtybrd]

It doesn't.

[A4natomical]

i asked the engineer about it and he said if the negative ground is the one you choose to pull, if by ANY chance the negative touches the body of the car, it will give the battery charge.

so i played devils advocate and asked, well what if you wrap it up.
him= then you wouldnt have to worry.

[317ssayzarc]

Undo the ground...

#1 you risk touching something grounded with your metal tool when you are taking the positive off

#2 if anything grounds that cable while its laying there, you WILL see unexpected welding...

[dougyfresh]

bagging parts (check)
labeling wires (check)

did that. highly recommend it. i learned that in high school when i restored my Chevelle.

removing engine without trans (nah) I found it easier to crawl under the car and disconnect the rear trans mount and rear driveshaft and shifter linkage. then pull the whole engine and trans out as one. just my personal preference.



Lee. His engine is pristine because he's in southern california.

[dirtybrd]

I pulled the head and then the block, I didn't have the luxury of a hoist...other than my back. I did the assembly the same way. Shit, I didn't even have a jack and stands back then.

[317ssayzarc]

I pulled the head and then the block, I didn't have the luxury of a hoist...other than my back. I did the assembly the same way. Shit, I didn't even have a jack and stands back then.

Thats beastly

[A4natomical]

I pulled the head and then the block, I didn't have the luxury of a hoist...other than my back. I did the assembly the same way. Shit, I didn't even have a jack and stands back then.

wow. when we work, we say "imagine trying to do that with the engine still in" Noooo way. hats off to you, thats amazing.

[AudiA4_20T]

Chris, your a monster lol

[A4natomical]

update for tonight. we did a little more work.








under the valve cover was VERY clean. im very happy about that.










the engine is dinky once its naked.







pile of laundry

[Maverick]

nice progressive work

good luck

[winston@podi.ca]

Just caught up on your build thread here and it looks like it is going well.

In regards to the software I'm with Doug on this one too... without a custom tune you will have to log and tweak your setup to get your car to be in a 'safe' zone when pushing the boost.

You won't make max power but you won't be taking your engine apart a couple of times to replace broken parts like I had to.

I'd also suggest getting the face of the JE Pistons coated with the heat reflective coating since you haven't installed them yet. You can use all the tech you can get with these builds.

[A4natomical]

Just caught up on your build thread here and it looks like it is going well.

In regards to the software I'm with Doug on this one too... without a custom tune you will have to log and tweak your setup to get your car to be in a 'safe' zone when pushing the boost.

You won't make max power but you won't be taking your engine apart a couple of times to replace broken parts like I had to.

I'd also suggest getting the face of the JE Pistons coated with the heat reflective coating since you haven't installed them yet. You can use all the tech you can get with these builds.

yea. ive decided im not gonna touch anything thing with boost and the ecu until i get the 3071 in. i was planning on running the 28r a little harder after the engine was broken in, but now i dont want to hassle with tweaking boost and fuel then when the 3071 comes having to do MORE tweaking.

[winston@podi.ca]

IMO the thing that bothers me about the tweaks is that they are just a quick fix and it is uncertain how long it lasts until the ME7 adapts the tweak out. It is that smart of an ECU.

The REVO software was made for a GT28xx turbo and when you up the turbo size, injectors and other characteristics you can make changes so that the software works but I hated the fact that I was always wondering if I was in a safe zone when I wanted to hammer the throttle.

My BAT build, while using relatively standard parts, is out of the norm of the software parameters. So adjusting software when the hardware is so far out of its playing field just made no sense to me.

[A4natomical]

you have a point. so far no one who is running a turbo larger than gt28xx has kaboomed (except clint) if they do everything right. just because i'll have a 3071 and a built motor doesnt mean im gonna push it really hard. With conservative boost on a 3071 will still yield very good numbers (if not better) without straining the ecu, than a gtrs/gt2871 would running aggressively.

[winston@podi.ca]

I hear ya... I just lacked the willpower to 'just keep the boost at 18psi' when I got used to the power

According to my dyno runs that would be ~ 265awhp/230ftlb tq

[A4natomical]

haha. yea, maybe not that conservative. maybe 24? we'll see once its running and logged.

[winston@podi.ca]

I forgot you are building the engine.

18psi was where we had it set with a stock engine.

It just occurred to me that was still less than one year ago.

[A4natomical]

I forgot you are building the engine.

18psi was where we had it set with a stock engine.

It just occurred to me that was still less than one year ago.

are you talking about your engine being set at 18psi on a stock motor?
what turbo? gt3076?

[winston@podi.ca]

With the original 3076 build the boost was set to 18psi on the stock motor so I wouldn't throw a rod.

The car ran great and the power delivery super smooth but the car wasn't 'fast'

So I chose to build the bottom end to a 1.9L setup to handle the power and the rest is history

[317ssayzarc]

Breaker bar on the oil filter housing bolt?!?!?!? Thats only M8 thread man!

[A4natomical]

Breaker bar on the oil filter housing bolt?!?!?!? Thats only M8 thread man!

haha i knowww. maybe we were getting weak late into the night.
you didnt NEED a breaker bar, a socket wrench would have been fine.
but the 10M wrench was too hard.

[317ssayzarc]

haha i knowww. maybe we were getting weak late into the night.
you didnt NEED a breaker bar, a socket wrench would have been fine.
but the 10M wrench was too hard.

Oh I gotcha... I thought you needed it lol...

Ive taken apart enough of these motors to where I now take them apart with an impact and throw everything into a bin... Lol, so I cant really hate on your breaker bar ... But please tell me you didnt have a 3' bar with a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter haha

[A4natomical]

Oh I gotcha... I thought you needed it lol...

Ive taken apart enough of these motors to where I now take them apart with an impact and throw everything into a bin... Lol, so I cant really hate on your breaker bar ... But please tell me you didnt have a 3' bar with a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter haha

nah. its only a 3/8 drive breaker.

[dougyfresh]

I sent you a PM

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I undid that bolt with the oil fitler still on with a little wrench. I must be strong

Think I am gonna take that assembly off again with the engin in the car now since I have a leak over there and I reused the metal gasket which got a little bent when the engine was apart. I hope that is my problem.

[A4natomical]

does anyone know what the size torx the head bolts are? its somewhere between T50 and T55.

[A4natomical]

I sent you a PM

replied.

[dougyfresh]

does anyone know what the size torx the head bolts are? its somewhere between T50 and T55.

6point poly drive
http://germanautoparts.com/tools/Aud...20valvetrain#3