Fixed the Flickering LED Plate light!!

[tankdeer]

1 year going strong. Attached to a little metal tab in the trunk. It gets hot, but I don't think it's fire hazard hot.

[cvicto]

Great to hear, thanks. I figured, I will run it for a little while and see how hot the area gets before re-installing the trunk liner. I already bought some HVAC Aluminum tape from HDepot rated to 325F; so I might just use it as heat sheilding to deal with my paranoia.

1 year going strong. Attached to a little metal tab in the trunk. It gets hot, but I don't think it's fire hazard hot.

[tankdeer]

It doesn't get anywhere near 325°. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe 150°. Hot to the touch for sure, but not, hot hot.

[ColumbusAudiA4]

so i got the resistor in the mail from sonic tuning today. It just requires one? And does it matter which light you hook it to?

[Mc Suly]

Phil's DIY for resistor no wire cutting just soldering!
Does not get hot.

[tankdeer]

Just one for the license plate lights. They are wired together so the resistor affects both.

[amar26]

looks good, i have yet to find a type of led for the plates that don't immediately give me a bulb out

[nvds4]

Phil's DIY for resistor no wire cutting just soldering!
Does not get hot.

Link?

[fly300kts]

Voila

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...oblem-Solution

Phil

[nvds4]

Thanks, Phil. I ordered bulbs from SonicTuning ( http://www.sonictuning.com/audi/led-...ulbs-pair.html ), & they forgot to send me the extra resistor, but they're sending it now. I wonder if I should use theirs the way they suggest : http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Plate-light!!

Your soldering method requires 2 extra resistors? I assume since their bulbs are different, your method may not work for me?

[fly300kts]

To be honnest, I not sure I understand the way they wired the resistor
The ECU gets feedback from each bulb and not as a line. I may miss something here but I know that my set up works and for more than 6 months now

Phil

[tankdeer]

To be honnest, I not sure I understand the way they wired the resistor
The ECU gets feedback from each bulb and not as a line. I may miss something here but I know that my set up works and for more than 6 months now

Phil

Mine was wired the same as the OP's and worked perfectly for well over a year.

[nvds4]

I guess I'll try the way Sonic recommended first. Just worried about the heat, but seems that many are doing just fine.

[yettavr6]

So i've seen some people say they used different resistors and they barely get warm? Can anyone provide a specific model. I ordered from autolumination and got the bigger one which they claimed wouldn't get as hot....well its too hot to touch after about 5 seconds AND the solder and heatshrink holding the wires on melted off after a couple days. I covered the connections back up with electrical tape which seems to be holding up better but it still makes me uncomfortable. Its been flakey the past couple days also, giving me sporadic bulb out warnings again (it was fine for a few weeks), so i just want to replace it with something else that won't get so damn hot.

[plokm]

i used 25ohms/25watts...been over 2.5 years now

[nvds4]

Alright, As i have promised to some, I have solved the stupid LED plate light problem. Some people have the issue, some don't. So i ordered the 9 led 39mm for the plate lights from autolumination.com. after getting them in they would flicker twice then go out. so i ordered the 15-25 ohm load equalizer. I got it on friday and got it put in. Here are the steps you will need with a 2 photos. If needed i'll take more.

*This is purely informational, I will not be held responsible for anything that goes wrong. or you cutting your wires!*


1) Have the lights installed and have the trunk lid oped.
2) You will have to take off the trunk lining, There are 8 clip things that hold it in place 4 on top, 4 on bottom, along with 2 screws. All you have to do is pull the lining out. It will come and not bust. I started with the bottom ones, once loose, find the 2 screws. (philips head) 1 is behind the glow in the dark trunk release To get to that one you will have to take the glow part apart from the black. stick a screw driver in there and it will come. from there you will see a metal ball that is connected to the wire to release the trunk. Take it out of the black peice and you can get to the screw easy and the other is on the other side by the handle inside the trunk. Once those are out pull off the cover over the trunk latch. this comes off really easy. from there pull the last 4 clips on top out.
3) You should now have the lining out of the way.
4) You will see a bunch of wires. There is a set of 4 wires that go up and kinda behind the bulb holder. going from left to right, Brown, Grey, Brown, Brown/blueish. You want the Left most brown and grey wires. You will need to cut away some of the wrap to get more wire. be careful you don't want to cut any wires!!!! Install the load equalizer. It should come with 2 blue wire taps but i was worried that it was going to be too big for the small wires in the trunk. I had some red taps or 22-18 gauge taps that i knew would work with those wires. Got it on and squeezed with pliers to make sure it got on tight.



5) Some how get the load equalizer a place to spend the rest of its life in the trunk lid. anywhere should be fine.
6) Before you close everything up go turn on the car and turn on the lights! Make sure you don't get any warnings and the ligths are working perfect! DON'T TOUCH THE LOAD EQUALIZER!!!! IT GETS VERY HOT VERY FAST!!! I have a blister to prove it.


Sorry about the hands. My sis is special.
7) If everything is working perfect put everything back together and enjoy your new LED plate lights!!!

Thank you!!! Got my EQ from SonicTuning that they forgot installed. All good now.