DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification

[dantm]

OK.... Not trying to be a smart ass but from the questions you are asking I think you need to read up a little more on how the block breather and SAI system works before you start pulling everything off. If you are content to stare at a CEL all the time by all means proceed;-). Code P0507 on a 1.8T isn't necessarily indicative of a faulty PCV valve. It can be caused by a vacuum leak anywhere that leaks enough air to cause a high idle. It can even be a dirty throttle valve. Find your problem before potentially creating more problems.

Thanks for the feedback. I read up a little about how the system works, in terms of ventilating fumes back to be burned back in the engine. I am by no means any expert in this, but I got the just of it...if you have some suggested reading please let me know...

You already have an external waste gate and no you do not need an EBC to remove everything. Just use the N75 that is already there. And oil in the crankcase breather hose is normal.

I am sure the oil inside the hose is ok, but what about if the breather hose and the T-section which holds the PCV valve, and the two hoses leading from that are soaked in oil on the outside...that's my concern, could it be oil leaking around the junction between the engine and the breather hose?

[old guy]

Thanks for the feedback. I read up a little about how the system works, in terms of ventilating fumes back to be burned back in the engine. I am by no means any expert in this, but I got the just of it...if you have some suggested reading please let me know...

Might help a little: Clicky click

I am sure the oil inside the hose is ok, but what about if the breather hose and the T-section which holds the PCV valve, and the two hoses leading from that are soaked in oil on the outside...that's my concern, could it be oil leaking around the junction between the engine and the breather hose?

You probably need to replace a few components. Here is a wonderful resource: Clicky click


Cheers!

[dantm]

Thanks ** I've gone through the readings and the more I read the more I shake my head ** how can a manufacturer do something like this and expect it to last long...

The more I've read the more I want to remove everything except for the min required to run the engine properly with no CEL and with good power/gas mileage.

I looked under the hood some more and realized that all the hoses that go from the crankcase breather opening up (to the PCV) and beyond to the back of the manifold, are all covered in oil/soot. Should they not be dry/drier? I'm thinking there's a leak in one of them which is causing these issues and codes that I'm pulling and which is also spilling oil on the rest of the system.

Today I checked the codes and my original P0507 now includes the P0171 and all of the engine misfire codes:

P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304

So the problem isn't getting any better. The car drives ok, although I do not push it hard. I've noticed on the highway it's a lot more sluggish and gas mileage is generally more crappy.

[dantm]

Here's the diagram illustrating what I'm seeing...

[old guy]

You have a leak somewhere. Thus the lean code, high idle code and multiple misfires. Run a pressure test and you should be able to find the problem. for what it's worth I have ~140K miles on my '03 and all systems function as they should. I have replaced a few check valves here and there but overall maintenance has been minimal.

[n7plus1]

you have a major vacuum leak somewhere with those misfire codes

[dantm]

you have a major vacuum leak somewhere with those misfire codes

^^^^^
Guys how do I test for it? I saw an A4 mods post where they showed using a compressor to pressurize the MAF with the engine off (is this correct?). Any other suggestions?

Thanks!~

[quiljw01]

Here's the diagram illustrating what I'm seeing...

I'm not sure the best place to post this... but i'm having some trouble too. I have fault codes P0300, P0301, and P0302. cylinders 1 and 2 misfires. I looked at the car today and i see that Part #9 in the quoted post's diagram is cracked. could anyone supply me with the part number, and/ or where to find it?

Also, could that be the only reason for my 3 fault codes?, or should I also be looking elsewhere?

[dantm]

I'm not sure the best place to post this... but i'm having some trouble too. I have fault codes P0300, P0301, and P0302. cylinders 1 and 2 misfires. I looked at the car today and i see that Part #9 in the quoted post's diagram is cracked. could anyone supply me with the part number, and/ or where to find it?

Also, could that be the only reason for my 3 fault codes?, or should I also be looking elsewhere?

You are definitely suffering from similar symptoms from what I'm seeing...what year is the car? There are different part numbers based on the years...

By the way, in order to replace that hose, you have to take the whole assembly out from under the manifold; it's not that hard but it's better if you have smaller hands. When you do take that off you run a chance to break #2 which is very brittle (I did, it crumbled in my hands).

I've gone through the whole thing in the last week so it's fresh in my mind; keep asking questions and I'll tell you everything I've learned...

[n7plus1]

#2 in that diagram usually fails more so than all the others....as does #13.

[n7plus1]

^^^^^
Guys how do I test for it? I saw an A4 mods post where they showed using a compressor to pressurize the MAF with the engine off (is this correct?). Any other suggestions?

Thanks!~

smoke test

[Seerlah]

I am not really trying to read 14 pages of this thread, but not sure if this question has been asked yet. Here is a pic of the rerouting from the first post.


Would there be an issue if I removed what I highlighted in green (pic below), route the BOV to that nipple that the green one is going, plug the one under the throttle body (assuming that is where the BOV line is going, but I remember that nipple being larger than the others), and get readings for my boost gauge from my FPR to IM line? I have a Precision PW39 that wil be installed. And the instructions state to T-off the boost pressure source of the turbo with the side nipple of the WG, then route that line into the boost pressure side of the MBC (Turbo XS BC-HPBC). Then the wastegate nipple on the mbc goes to the top nipple of the WG (Referr to pg 7/9 of the PDF to see Precision's install instructions). That is what I would do for the external WG scenerio.

Also, would it be ok to get the billet crank case breather adapter, place a barb fitting onto the 1/2"npt (I think that's the size of the female threads on the adapter), run a heater hose to the 3 way valve cover breather port hose (barb adapter), and run the other side to a vented catch can (which orginally leads to pancake valve and turbo inlet pipe)? This is the route I want to take, and just wanted confirmation that is won't cause an issue. The diagram (from original post) says that it goes to a vacuum generator from the exhaust, but can I do it the way I just stated? I know a vacuum source is more preferred, but will anything get messed up if I go this route? Thanks!

[Papa_Dios]

I did this not to long ago. Haven't had any issues aside from the evap code and sai code (to be expected).

[pape]

I have read mixed opinions about MPG and evap removal. Does your MPG drop if you remove the EVAP?

[hummvee2134]

nope.

[Papa_Dios]

I have read mixed opinions about MPG and evap removal. Does your MPG drop if you remove the EVAP?

I haven't noticed any yet I'll let you know if that changes though. Hey you going to the GTG in Orlando in September?

[n7plus1]

nope.

x4, nope

[Seerlah]

Can anyone answer my question in post #532? Thanks!

[walky_talky20]

Seerlah, what you said for the breather stuff is fine. That is how a lot of people do it, just tie the 2 breather outlets (block and VC) to a vented catch can. Just make sure you lines are large enough.

As for your pressure line routing, nothing from your wastegate should ever connect to the intake manifold. Both lines will be "boost only", so they will come from the compressor housing. One direct, and the other passes through your MBC. Your DV/BOV connects to the manifold directly using that front port.

[Seerlah]

That's what I thought (about the WG), but the diagram in the OP says otherwise. And thanks for clarification on the engine ventilation setup. My VC to catch can is 1" ID, and the crank case to 3 way hose will be either 3/4" or 1" ID. Need to measure the ID of the 3 way hose leading to the crankcase before I decide.

[pape]

I haven't noticed any yet I'll let you know if that changes though. Hey you going to the GTG in Orlando in September?

I am not in Miami any more so no. Any way were is it?

[pape]

I wanted to ask to any one with a catch can that has it conected like so (block to valve cover "T" and one hose to the pancake valve on the tip)

Does it generate vacumm at idle inside the block? when you take the oil cap of does it get sucked meaning there is vacumm?

[04dolphin]

Does anyone have the part number for #2 of the diagram for 2004 1.8t? I ordered the Breather Hose Kit from 034 motorsports and doesn't look like this is included. Thanks!

#2 in that diagram usually fails more so than all the others....as does #13.

[Charles.waite]

Does anyone have the part number for #2 of the diagram for 2004 1.8t? I ordered the Breather Hose Kit from 034 motorsports and doesn't look like this is included. Thanks!

Part No.: 1C0906517A

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...mission/Valve/
They are the Vent/Purge Valves.

[walky_talky20]

Part No.: 1C0906517A

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...mission/Valve/
They are the Vent/Purge Valves.

Charles, I believe he was referring to the block ventilation diagram from post #524. The breather pipe which is very common to break:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06A_103_213AM/ES7938/

@04dolphin: That part is definitely replaced as part of the 034 silicone breather hose kit for AMB ("late" AMB in your case). In fact the 034 kit would be replacing items #2 as well as #5-13 (and 2x of #14 I would assume - not sure how many clamps they throw in, but I'm assuming all of them). It basically replaces that entire diagram save items #15, 16, 17, and #4.

[absolutegtr]

Charles, I believe he was referring to the block ventilation diagram from post #524. The breather pipe which is very common to break:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06A_103_213AM/ES7938/

@04dolphin: That part is definitely replaced as part of the 034 silicone breather hose kit for AMB ("late" AMB in your case). In fact the 034 kit would be replacing items #2 as well as #5-13 (and 2x of #14 I would assume - not sure how many clamps they throw in, but I'm assuming all of them). It basically replaces that entire diagram save items #15, 16, 17, and #4.

Cant believe this thread is still going strong after all these years!

Anyways, IIRC 034 offers a cheaper alternative than installing the $53 OEM part that will eventally fail and crack again. They should offer an aluminum piece which you can slip into the housing and the top portion is threaded so you can use stainless steel braided fitted lines.

[Crispy222]

Cant believe this thread is still going strong after all these years!

Anyways, IIRC 034 offers a cheaper alternative than installing the $53 OEM part that will eventally fail and crack again. They should offer an aluminum piece which you can slip into the housing and the top portion is threaded so you can use stainless steel braided fitted lines.

You talking about this VC piece from IE?

http://www.intengineering.com/Integr...91699-1-2.html

[Charles.waite]

My bad, I just referred to the first diagram I saw.

[mark333]

You talking about this VC piece from IE?

http://www.intengineering.com/Integr...91699-1-2.html

I am in the process of doing all of this myself. ABSOLUTEGTR 034 Makes a billet piece that you are talking about (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...18t-p-392.html) I am considering going this route myself. The red aluminum part CRISPY222 posted is for the back of the valve cover.

Therefore all you would need would be a stainless line and some type of aluminum T-flange for the back of the valve cover? (so you can add a catch can/connect to breather)

You guys are eliminating the other vac line that is seen in the 034 breather kit right? (between old breather hose and oil filter housing)

[Abuck35]

I too messed broke one of my nipples..

ahahaha LOL

[Abuck35]

14 pages and still the same questions....really??? Why are people still posting hereeeeee!!!???? CAREFULLY READ PAGE ONE WITH ASSOCIATED LINK. DO WORK. DONE.

[davkav]

14 pages and still the same questions....really??? Why are people still posting hereeeeee!!!???? CAREFULLY READ PAGE ONE WITH ASSOCIATED LINK. DO WORK. DONE.

Why are you still subscribed to it, if it bothers you so much?

[n7plus1]

bc London has issues.

[Abuck35]

LOL ^yes. everyone here will come to learn that with time. hahaah

[04dolphin]

Charles, I believe he was referring to the block ventilation diagram from post #524. The breather pipe which is very common to break:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06A_103_213AM/ES7938/

@04dolphin: That part is definitely replaced as part of the 034 silicone breather hose kit for AMB ("late" AMB in your case). In fact the 034 kit would be replacing items #2 as well as #5-13 (and 2x of #14 I would assume - not sure how many clamps they throw in, but I'm assuming all of them). It basically replaces that entire diagram save items #15, 16, 17, and #4.

Thanks! My car is running like new after replacing the hose with the 034 kit, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, coolant flange and oil pressure sensor switch!

[Sam091990]

I'm planning on doing this sometime in the near future. I'm a bit confused about the 'dump line below the transmission' part of the illustration. I've read through numerous posts that you can hook that up directly to the exhaust to have vacuum present. So basically, run a steel line from that T to the exhaust? When you do this, do you just simply have a piece welded onto the exhaust so you can connect the steel line? If so, which part of the exhaust system would be the best place (stock exhaust system)?

[Sam091990]

I'm planning on doing this sometime in the near future. I'm a bit confused about the 'dump line below the transmission' part of the illustration. I've read through numerous posts that you can hook that up directly to the exhaust to have vacuum present. So basically, run a steel line from that T to the exhaust? When you do this, do you just simply have a piece welded onto the exhaust so you can connect the steel line? If so, which part of the exhaust system would be the best place (stock exhaust system)?

[rob30606]

Ok, so I am probably going to get ripped a new one, but I'll try anyways.

First off, mine isn't an Audi, its a 2002 B5.5 Passat, but from what I have read, it is pretty much the same setup.

I have read all 14 pages, I know what I want to do, but I have a question and I don't think I have seen the issue posted.

On the B5.5 Passats with the Automatic Tranny right next to the Power Steering Reservoir there is an electric vacuum pump for the Brake Booster.

I don't currently have a picture of how it ties in, I can get one tomorrow when its daylight.

But I was wondering if anyone has dealt with this pump in performing the mods on this thread.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

[SHAKING STEVENS]

Cant believe this thread is still going strong after all these years!

Thanks man

[BARRY]

i attempted this a few weekends ago and gave up. reason being i couldn't easily reroute my aftermarket oil catch can drain back valve to return to the engine. bought the 034 breather hose adapter and realized i should have went AN fitting with 90degree elbow. no way i can fit a reducer and 90 degree in there. decided to do this after i go turbo upgrade. also didn't want a check engine for SAI insufficient flow.

great write up btw. took me a while to figure a lot out. basically once you start ripping things out you figure it out. also so much roomier if i did complete the entire procedure. couldn't have even thought to start this without this write up.

one question i have though is, off my suction jet pump Y fitting, there is a hose with a thick all rubber PCV valve type thing that is all chewed up. it can be removed. what does it look like when its new? i read postings that state it is only a dump hose, but there is obviously a PCV check valve in mine. if anybody is willing to trade 034 breather adapter nipple for IE AN fitting type let me know.