This build will have a slightly bigger budget. Last time around I had a 3 week window and a smaller budget. I just didn't have enough cash or time to do exactly what I wanted. Hopefully I can get it right this time.. I'm picking up and AEB head this weekend off a friend to build in the mean time while I order and wait for parts to come in.
Already have:
Je Pistons
Scat Rods
20mm Pins
Piston rings
034 coated bearings
Powder Coated pulleys and tensioners
Gasket Set
BOV
In the mail:
Garrett Gt3076r .82 ar
034 valve springs
8 exhaust valves
Piping
FMIC
MAP based Meth kit
Still need to order
Tapp Software
Still lots of work ahead of me. Gathering parts is the worst part. Does anyone know where I can buy new valve seats for a 20v head?
I wanna take it up to 8k. Plus it gives me a reason to have a large tach....JK
Might as well throw in springs while I'll have the head apart. I'm keeping the stock retainers. I'm told they would last longer. Like Ian said, this isn't a drag racer.
I'm still looking for a place that sells valve seats.
317ssayzarc (Jakes) head is fully built and I was in the car when it was hitting slightly under 8k. I'd definately say its worth it as you can get 70 mph out of 2nd gear that way and on.
Are you using the AWM block? AEG 2.0 8V crank fits that.
Last edited by Nebone; 06-05-2008 at 09:38 AM.
Dolphin Gray 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T Avant 6MT
Santorin Blue Pearl Effect 2001.5 Audi A4 1.8T Sedan 5MT
Staying 1.8l. The extra grand to go .2l wasn't worth it for me. I also like to keep most of the build in house. If I went 2.0l I would have gone with a gt35. If the .82 ar proves to be too laggy, I have a .63 ar housing to slap on.
I work for a company designing/developing/research battery hardware design. Mostly lithium ion cells. I'm a full time student though for Electrical Engineering. Hopefully graduating.....sometime in the future. LOL
Staying 1.8l. The extra grand to go .2l wasn't worth it for me. I also like to keep most of the build in house. If I went 2.0l I would have gone with a gt35. If the .82 ar proves to be too laggy, I have a .63 ar housing to slap on.
I work for a company designing/developing/research battery hardware design. Mostly lithium ion cells. I'm a full time student though for Electrical Engineering. Hopefully graduating.....sometime in the future. LOL
Thats what I would do and I also have an AWM. This might be the first documented AWM build here, minus the head. WIll you be using the hydraulic cam chain tensioner?
Electrical engineering is definately the foundation for the company you work for. I just graduated mechanical engineering last month.
Dolphin Gray 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T Avant 6MT
Santorin Blue Pearl Effect 2001.5 Audi A4 1.8T Sedan 5MT
Actually it would be nice if I had an ME degree with material science. Oh well, at the moment its just a job and not a career.
Bassed has a built 2.0 AWM.
I'm going with the hydrolic tensioner. The tune will be for mafless, catless, sai delete, and VVT delete.
Yup I have a 2.0 AWM, but an AEB head with VVT:) I think I'm the first fully built 2.0 for an AWM on here, AW and pretty much all the forums, but not the first to do so by any means:)
Tune doesnt need to delete VVT just unplug the sensor.
im curious what you guys building your engines do for passing emissions. I definately want to build mine very similar to what poopie is wokring on, but i gotta have the thing pass emissions.
Past: BT Hibiscus Red A4 ,2003 Audi RS6, B6 s4
Present: Casa white stg 3 b5 S4 avant, back in the B5 game
im curious what you guys building your engines do for passing emissions. I definately want to build mine very similar to what poopie is wokring on, but i gotta have the thing pass emissions.
I am no expert, but it is not the engine build per se but the bigger turbo set up that needs to pass inspection. In my state, to pass emissions they simply use the little OBD port during inspection. Other states work different. If the engine throws a code, you simply do not pass inspection. Whether that be for a light bulb to emissions. That is why a tune for a Big Turbo set up is very important, among other reasons. Another reason why so many go the Unitronics route or the CTapp route. They remove any emission codes that would barr you from passing inspection.
doesnt really matter for me right now since the county i live in doesnt require emissions. maybe ill just keep the car registered here....lol. once i upgrade it would be all sorted out. uintil then i watch everyone else build their engines while my rods sit under my bed
Past: BT Hibiscus Red A4 ,2003 Audi RS6, B6 s4
Present: Casa white stg 3 b5 S4 avant, back in the B5 game
I run the car on the stock ecu, maf, injectors, etc when it's time for inspection. Hope it's still able to complete all the readiness tests with the 2.0 though!
im curious what you guys building your engines do for passing emissions. I definately want to build mine very similar to what poopie is wokring on, but i gotta have the thing pass emissions.
I pass with flying colors here in PA. I have no issues, there is no visual and I have no codes due to the programming when it comes to emissions related items.
What is it you got off of ebay, if you don't mind me asking? I just want to know of more things that are safe to purchase from ebay. Thanks!
Branded stuff is good to buy off ebay. If you're looking for a boost controller or something and its original Greddy or Apexi then get it. If its a replica from China then you don't.
I hope to see all these BT cars from PA during Waterfest.
Dolphin Gray 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T Avant 6MT
Santorin Blue Pearl Effect 2001.5 Audi A4 1.8T Sedan 5MT
Branded stuff is good to buy off ebay. If you're looking for a boost controller or something and its original Greddy or Apexi then get it. If its a replica from China then you don't.
I hope to see all these BT cars from PA during Waterfest.
BT? You mean BAT Poopie doesn't do shows. Dietbudda will be at Cult Classic and H20, he has a crazy build going on right now as well. I will be at Cult Classic, WF and H20.
Branded stuff is good to buy off ebay. If you're looking for a boost controller or something and its original Greddy or Apexi then get it. If its a replica from China then you don't.
I hope to see all these BT cars from PA during Waterfest.
i'll probably go to waterfest.....i'm not really a show person.
06a block:
$300 for a cast crank
$300 for machining and honing
piston and ring cost is built in already since you're getting forged pistons (unless you already had 81mm forged pistons somewhere)
bearings are already built in since you're doing them anyway
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