I picked up a 2001 Audi TT 225HP complete 1.8L the other month for a good price . I am going to use this block to build up a new motor to put into my AVant. Still unsure which head I'm going to use but we'll figure that out later.
Here's the plan:
AMU block (06A casting) out of a 2001 TT 225HP. Its native environment is transverse so I will be needing a few items off my AMB when I put it back together. That detail will be documented as we go. Since our B6 A4's 1.8L are an 06A block casting and this engine is the same casting then it'll fit!
I was originally planning on using the TT's pistons and connecting rods (9.0:1 compression ratio and forged) but have since decided to go bigger...
Overbore to 82.5mm from 81mm.
New (used) crank from an AEG, 92.8mm stroke (1.8L stroke is 86.4mm)
What does that yield? 2.0L my friends! This will be coupled with the ASP GT28RS turbo system and a custom ME7 tune. Motronic FTW!
By the time the bottom end is built I'll have my new Jeep to drive so I can take my AVant's engine out (remember, I need all the externals and some other parts off the AMB to get the AMU completed for a longitudinal orientation). In the meantime the AVant is still my daily driver. Hence why I'm building on a different block.
Today I spent the afternoon (maybe 4hours?) getting the AMU engine onto my new engine stand (sorry, no red wagons in this build) and disassembled. Scored the engine stand from Harbor Freight for $40.00.
Notice some differences? For starters how about the intake manifold? Yup. that's not getting reused. The valve cover is also different. Only from using different coil packs. Everything else on the valve cover is the same. The accessories are similar (alternator, a/c pump, power steering pump). I think the pulleys for the accessories are different too. The serpentine belt had ribs on both sides and I think our B6s only have ribs on one side. Notice the engine mount in the center infront of the timing belt? How about the secondary air injection pump next to the oil filter? Again, transverse.
Proof:
I want to thank Clint (AudiA4_20T) for finding me this engine. I also want to thank him for the input and his photos I will be using to compare and contrast. I also want to thank Jake (317ssayzarc) for answering my questions in finding the right crankshaft and confirming block casting info. He's got a good thread here: http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188078
What tools are needed for engine disassembly?
Basic 3/8" and 1/2" drive metric sockets ranging from 10mm up to 19mm
Metric allen keys (preferably sockets)
torx bits (preferably sockets)
poly drive socket (10mm) for the cylinder head bolts
triple square 12mm socket for the flywheel bolts (found 'em at Napa, p/n SER2306)
twelve point 19mm socket for the crank bolt on the front of the engine
air compressor (if you're lucky)
engine stand (if you're lucky)
Who's do the machining and build? Where am I getting the new parts from? I'm not sure yet. Still working that. I wanted to get the AMU engine apart first to figure out what I'm dealing with.
Last edited by dougyfresh; 04-11-2008 at 06:38 AM.
Accessories are gone! (as you can tell from my tray of bolts in the background)
That big 'hole' is for the thermostat
No more oil cooler / oil filter
That hole in the lower right is for the crankshaft position sensor.
I couldn't get that damn crankshaft bolt off! So, I pulled the cylinder head off and then put the shortblock into the back of the AVant for a road trip. 30mins later I'm at Bernardsville VW (ironically, where I bought my AVant four years ago) and had the technician pop it loose with their impact gun. He made it look effortless. Now that its off I can finish pulling the block apart.
Dinner, walk the dog and some other stuff.
Back to work: No more crank pulley. I also removed the oil pan and the front main seal. Check out the oil pump and notice the oil pump pick up. Its different than the B6 AMB. (I'll compare in later posts) The oil looks funny because some water got into it.
no more oil pump. That hole in the upper right is for the water pump.
What's left? rear main seal, pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft.
moved indoors (next to my mom's yarn 'warehouse' aka: the garage):
Some photos of the shortblock. The engine was upside down so I rotated the photos so they are oriented as how the engine sits normally.
intake manifold side
exhaust manifold side
Pistons out!
cylinder 1 is on the far left (FWD of engine)
cylinder 4 is on the far right (flywheel side)
time for the rear main seal the the crankshaft and we're done!
Crankshaft is out!
Now to figure out who's doing the machine work and what parts I need to order..
Last edited by dougyfresh; 03-21-2008 at 06:13 PM.
I'm not sure. Now that its apart I'm going to go back through Clint's photo documentation and compare the AMU block to his photos of the AMB block. If all checks out then I'll be able to use this AMU block.
I think the differences are all in the accessories and some of the covers (oil pan, valve cover, snub mount, etc...)
We will see. If it fails then I'll wait until I get the Jeep and disassemble my AMB block for machining and rebuild rather than this AMU block (another month or two).
The inside of your motor looks like my mustangs after it blew a headgasket!
Yeah. Its been sitting outside for quite a while (covered and, I though, sealed). I think water got into the crankcase. I saw water ontop of the #4 piston which is why that piston looks nasty.
Don't know the history on this engine so most of the block internals will not be reused.
Back at ya, just an FYI, I know it would require some machine work but I will have my head core sitting around within the next month. I would be happy to let you use it and trade for yours when you swap or whatever, just think about it and let me know
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
your thread couldn't have come at a better time!! I'm excited to see how this progresses, I'm really wanting to find out what/if they have to do in machining to get the rods to clear the cylinders.
hey my buddy has an AEG crank sitting in his shop came out of a golf nothing wrong internally with the engine but it broke off an ear for the front mount if your interested in it shoot me a PM. just trying to help out if i can.
Those pistons can be sold or possibly even be bartered for some OEM parts I have a parts list for you, shoot me your email and Ill send it over
I am most likely going to sell/barter the stuff I'm not using. Pistons & rods, oil pan, intake and maybe even the complete head (and use my AMB head). Sent you a PM with my email. Please shoot me over that estimate.
Originally Posted by dirtybrd
The snub mount is on the oilpan, just transfer it over.
I am fairly sure, yes. I'm going to put together a photo comparison with my AMU and Clint's AMB in the next few days.
Originally Posted by A4TUNE
dougyfresh you live pretty close to me, i'd like to check out the car when its finished if you're okay with that.
Certainly! And if you are around when I swap engines you're welcome to come by and help out.
Originally Posted by 317ssayzarc
btw, you KNOW whos doing the machine work
I'm fairly sure its going to RI for the machine work . I'm just waiting for a response from South Jersey first (gotta call and harrass). Think I'm going to have some one assemble the bottom end (pistons, rods, crank, crank bearings, etc..) and then I can do the rest of the assembly. Want someone that knows what they are doing to get the tolerances and torques correct. Who do you recommend? Or would you be willing to do it?
Originally Posted by keithla4
hey my buddy has an AEG crank sitting in his shop came out of a golf nothing wrong internally with the engine but it broke off an ear for the front mount if your interested in it shoot me a PM. just trying to help out if i can.
I'm fairly sure its going to RI for the machine work . I'm just waiting for a response from South Jersey first (gotta call and harrass). Think I'm going to have some one assemble the bottom end (pistons, rods, crank, crank bearings, etc..) and then I can do the rest of the assembly. Want someone that knows what they are doing to get the tolerances and torques correct. Who do you recommend? Or would you be willing to do it?
Russ is the man, I didnt even ask him to check that stuff, i just asked for him to do machine work and I come to get it one day and its all done... Rings gapped, tolerances all checked and were spot on, pistons/rods assembled, ect... I would love to do it for you but unfortunetly I have school and work, took me a week just to get time to do mine, and it only took 2 hours to do the bottom end assembly, minus the trips to get the oil shaft machined ... Call up Russ
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
I called Russ and spoke to him about machine work but not assembly. You are saying he can do the bottom end assy too (crank, main bearings, pistons, rods, etc)?
I can put the oil pump on and the front&rear seals and everything else to get it back to a long block. I think I want to leave the main bearings, rod bearings and stuff like that to someone that knows what they are doing.
just have him assemble the bottom end, hes build a 1.8t right now actually, complete long block, just have him do your short block, you wont be dissappionted
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
Oh and btw, he has a blown big block sitting in his office, he built that too
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
Oh and btw, he has a blown big block sitting in his office, he built that too
Nice! I should bring some pictures of my friend's S/C'd big block (640cu). It propels his '81 Malibu Wagon down the 1/4 mile in the low 8s [O_O]
I'll call Russ back on Monday.
Looks like I'm getting the Jeep Cherokee in the next few weeks. I test drove it today. 1999 with 150k in white. Runs strong and has been well taken care of. Needs some minor maintenance: front shocks, rear main seal, oil pan gasket and a front pinion seal. Cheap parts and easy to repair w/ my buddy's lift .
So, I think I might sell the AMU head and have the valve seats lapped on my AMB head while the AMU block is machined. Going to stick with an OEM head.
Still working out the logistics in my head (got way too many things going on between work, relationships and mountain bike race season around the corner).
your going to want to do a few things with that head, trust me...
your going to want exhaust valve guides, as those wear out quickly
your going to want supertech exhuast valves, chances are you may drop an oem one
your going to want springs since you want to rev it
and this part is optional but highly reccomended, cams, huge gains for 3071r and up turbos
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
your going to want to do a few things with that head, trust me...
your going to want exhaust valve guides, as those wear out quickly
your going to want supertech exhuast valves, chances are you may drop an oem one
your going to want springs since you want to rev it
and this part is optional but highly reccomended, cams, huge gains for 3071r and up turbos
I agree on everything except for the guides. I re-used mine with 98k on them. They were like new. Just inspect them for side to side play.
I agree on everything except for the guides. I re-used mine with 98k on them. They were like new. Just inspect them for side to side play.
true they can be reused, but .030" is nothing and many figure they are ok by just hand checking them
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
your going to want to do a few things with that head, trust me...
your going to want exhaust valve guides, as those wear out quickly
your going to want supertech exhuast valves, chances are you may drop an oem one
your going to want springs since you want to rev it
and this part is optional but highly reccomended, cams, huge gains for 3071r and up turbos
Agreed on the guides (if worn beyond limits) and valves.
See no reason for springs and cams.
Why? Has anyone seen gains with cams on a 20series turbo? Don't the 20series turbos run out of steam beyond 7k on a 2.0L? As a result then its a waste of my money. I understand people around here (the 'new' and upcoming dealio) are going 30series and such but I'm sticking with what I currently have.
If I do want more, it'll be with a different vehicle (B5 S4 or the like).
I feel this engine work, coupled with the future diff work and possibly suspension and even bigger brakes will round out this vehicle for what I want. From there, I can move onto something else to add to my collection and build/tune/tweak that vehicle.
One has to come up with a plan and I have developed such plan for my intentions. 2.0L is just an added benefit since I'm building the motor. Might as well add another $500 for machine work and a new crank to gain some displacement. This was always my long term plan but the engine work has been moved forward for other reasons...
Last edited by dougyfresh; 03-22-2008 at 09:46 PM.
You better show us some numbers when this is done. Unlike some of our fellow AZer's. cough*Shawn*cough
"set your mindstate free"
2002 Audi A4 1.8TQM
Lowered by Stasis SS (finally) On 19" ADR M-Classics.
Bailey's DV
Neuspeed Short Shift
Southbend FE SS Clutch with AWE Flywheel (13lbs lighter then stock)
and you need cams to make real power up there anyways...
-Jake and my shop isDoWerk Garage
01' Golf 1.8T - The daily, GT2871R .64 externally gated, Tapp 630cc mafless tune, SB stage 3, Brute rods, ported AEB, 1mm over valves, CAT gold springs, Vmaxx, and countless other tidbits
Send me apmif you need work done in New England... Fabrication, engine builds, timing belts, brakes, ect
Thought is a key to all treasures; the miser's gains are ours without his cares. Thus I have soared above this world, where my enjoyment have been intellectual joys. - Honore de Balzac
. I am going to use this block to build up a new motor to put into my AVant. Still unsure which head I'm going to use but we'll figure that out later.
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So, I pulled the cylinder head off and then put the shortblock into the back of the AVant for a road trip. 30mins later I'm at Bernardsville VW (ironically, where I bought my AVant four years ago) and had the technician pop it loose with their impact gun. He made it look effortless. Now that its off I can finish pulling the block apart.
Originally Posted by Four Play
I have a parts list for you, shoot me your email and Ill send it over 
.
)
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