There are a handful, but wait a few weeks for some really good info and a full fueling and software kit from J. Moss @ Giac. I don't really think it's something you will be successful with trying to homebrew, though you could try.
But there are lots of things in the works which should be announced soon.
Details I know, RS6 turbos need some modification to compressor housing to make it fit as well as wastegate re-positioning. They will bolt right onto stock manifolds. Downpipe flanges will need to be redrilled to accept new bolt pattern. These turbos have already made 500+wheel HP and forged rods are a absolute must if you want to run them hard. If not, keep boost low... They spool much earlier than Garretts (30+psi by 3800) and have an awesome power band to red line.
RS6's seem to be the next good upgrade. The ko4s came first, there kinda getting played out, so the let the rs6s come in. I think a full rs6 S4 would be a riot with there power band, especaily in around a 3400pd s4.
where do you buy rs6 turbos? do they have a special name for them other than the vehicle that it is used on (for instance s4 uses k03s and an rs6 uses....rs6's?) what do these retail for?
01.5 Brilliant Black S4 6speed
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were can we see full boost at 3800rpms? vag has a gt25 car that hits full boost at 3800 also dont no if its a 2554 or 2560 car... I was trying to get them a year ago and gave up
the only difference between the 2 is a larger exhaust housing on the straight rs6ss..
And with a much larger exhaust housing comes a much larger turbine wheel. The compressor housing is also larger... K04/RS6's only use a RS6 compressor wheel.
There are a handful, but wait a few weeks for some really good info and a full fueling and software kit from J. Moss @ Giac. I don't really think it's something you will be successful with trying to homebrew, though you could try.
But there are lots of things in the works which should be announced soon.
Details I know, RS6 turbos need some modification to compressor housing to make it fit as well as wastegate re-positioning. They will bolt right onto stock manifolds. Downpipe flanges will need to be redrilled to accept new bolt pattern. These turbos have already made 500+wheel HP and forged rods are a absolute must if you want to run them hard. If not, keep boost low... They spool much earlier than Garretts (30+psi by 3800) and have an awesome power band to red line.
you forgot to cut out parts of the actual chassie to fit the turbo itself.
I have an RS4 (ASJ engine code) and I'm running an ABT chip right now. Would it be wise to run my car as is and just replacing the K04s with the RS4/RS6 hybrid? ..or do I have to change injectors too. TIA! :)
Either way, hybrids (especially buehns) are known to blow more than a whore and straight RS6's make up to 70~ wheel hp more.
Frimmel - don't need to cut anything. There are a handful of people running them now. You need to swap out or modify existing compressor housing and then re-locate the wastegates...redrill the DP flange for the new bolt pattern and you're golden.
And with a much larger exhaust housing comes a much larger turbine wheel. The compressor housing is also larger... K04/RS6's only use a RS6 compressor wheel.
This is not true i have a full rs6 center section right here and i have a rs4/ko4 center sections right here the turbine wheel is .2mm larger on the rs6 turbine over the rs4/ko4 which is nothing... If you due the rs6 full centers section in the ko4ss like the way i have them done and vast not just the compressor wheel like buehn does, there is no need for any re balancing its just the same as a straight rs6 turbo with rs4/ko4 compressor and turbine covers.... the only difference is the rs6 turbos have a larger turbine housing other then that there exact same chrass...heres a full rs6 chra and wheel specs turbine wheel rs6 comp wheel machined rs4/ko4 compressor cover to fit the larger rs6 wheel A true rs6 hybrid using the full chra will make 60whp over a stock ko4
Last edited by generationjdm; 08-31-2007 at 11:00 AM.
Gen JDM - The main reason people go with straight RS6's are because of that larger exhaust housing...that makes the biggest difference. You can add whatever turbine wheel you want, however big...whatever...but if the exhaust housing is too small (RS4) you are not going to get the most out of them. Fact is, no K04/RS6 with CHRA housing has managed anything near 500wheel.
Like you said, the turbine wheel on the RS6 is larger...add that to a larger exhaust housing and you will have much more potential. Just wait for some more info in a few weeks from Moss
edit...forgot to mention. Some crazy mofos are already doing straight RS6 hybrids with wheels flowing the same as GT28RS. Seems pointless since straight RS6's will pop the stock rods if you push them hard enough. So you'd need to get forged con. rods just like you would for GTs.
Either way, hybrids (especially buehns) are known to blow more than a whore and straight RS6's make up to 70~ wheel hp more.
Still not right my friend. I dont have Buehns I have Blouchs. The compressor wheels i have are not RS6 they are 997 compressor wheels similar to if not bigger than K24 compressor wheels. I have yet to install them but I'm almost certain they make a healthy amount of wheel hp, com padre.
i herd 500whp at 30lbs on straight rs6ss thats sounds high, gt25ss make that power at 20-22lbs. justin made 460whp with the rs6 comp wheel at 22lbs. i would think 500 could be reachable at 25-27lbs with cams and other mods
my compressor impellers on both my ko4s are both damaged...where can i buy just the compressor impellers? TIA
i have the full center sections for the rs4/ko4ss for 850.00 and rs6ss centers for 1100.00 then your turbos will be new again... i wouldnt trust anyone to replace the comp wheel once you remove it then it will need to be rebalanced and thats were all the trouble could start.. Its not worth the trouble for you to pull the motor again to find out the hard way...
Last edited by generationjdm; 09-03-2007 at 07:11 AM.
Yeah and then his motor blew a few seconds later...
There could of been many reason why it broke detonation for one... I dont think it broke because it was making to much power, i here that dyno sometimes reads roughly 10% higher then a lot of other mustang dynos... All in All who really cares as long as the car doesnt break and runs smooth.
This is not true i have a full rs6 center section right here and i have a rs4/ko4 center sections right here the turbine wheel is .2mm larger on the rs6 turbine over the rs4/ko4 which is nothing... If you due the rs6 full centers section in the ko4ss like the way i have them done and vast not just the compressor wheel like buehn does, there is no need for any re balancing its just the same as a straight rs6 turbo with rs4/ko4 compressor and turbine covers.... the only difference is the rs6 turbos have a larger turbine housing other then that there exact same chrass...heres a full rs6 chra and wheel specs turbine wheel rs6 comp wheel machined rs4/ko4 compressor cover to fit the larger rs6 wheel A true rs6 hybrid using the full chra will make 60whp over a stock ko4
TigasTT these r what the center sections r, everything from the compressor wheel including the turbine wheel
There could of been many reason why it broke detonation for one... I dont think it broke because it was making to much power, i here that dyno sometimes reads roughly 10% higher then a lot of other mustang dynos... All in All who really cares as long as the car doesnt break and runs smooth.
It doesn't matter, I was just asking because it seems some people use EPL #'s to show how high their hp is even though they know that isn't the power they are really making. Pretty much the same when people start posting up "SAE corrected" #'s say that is their actual whp.
There could of been many reason why it broke detonation for one... I dont think it broke because it was making to much power, i here that dyno sometimes reads roughly 10% higher then a lot of other mustang dynos... All in All who really cares as long as the car doesnt break and runs smooth.
No, it absolutely did break because it was making too much power. The rods let go.
You can make the same kind of power with OEM RS4 K04s if you push them as hard.
Ok, you cannot compare dyno numbers from GIAC's dyno to EPL's dyno....and when you do, you realize how much of a discrepancy there is. Now who's numbers would you trust? One of the most well-known and trusted tuners out there...or a shop in CT that toys with ME7?
The results are there and anyone who's making 470~ wheel hp on hybrids I call out to do it on a different dyno to compare. I'm willing to bet the numbers will drop by 40~ wheel.
A Vag GT kit hardly made 470 wheel on GIAC's dyno! And in comparison, on the same dyno, Moss made 500~ wheel with straight RS6's.
Ok, you cannot compare dyno numbers from GIAC's dyno to EPL's dyno....and when you do, you realize how much of a discrepancy there is. Now who's numbers would you trust? One of the most well-known and trusted tuners out there...or a shop in CT that toys with ME7?
The results are there and anyone who's making 470~ wheel hp on hybrids I call out to do it on a different dyno to compare. I'm willing to bet the numbers will drop by 40~ wheel.
A Vag GT kit hardly made 470 wheel on GIAC's dyno! And in comparison, on the same dyno, Moss made 500~ wheel with straight RS6's.
i herd the gt kit was running 21-22lbs and the rs6ss was running over 30lbs i also herd they were the small gt2554ss which r smaller then the straight rs6ss those gtss max out at 27lbs per minute which is 540chp
No, it absolutely did break because it was making too much power. The rods let go.
You can make the same kind of power with OEM RS4 K04s if you push them as hard.
rs/ko4s in there peak efficiency moves only 22lbs per minute the rs6 hybrid moves 27lbs per minute which is over 20% more flow, how will the peak the same?
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