Author: HurricaneSteve Supplemental Author: Will Mahoney, WJM, Yoogene83
Utilizing an original text by Hurricane Steve, I have added to the content for completeness and clarity. Hope it helps. -Will
i added more picts and tips for the b6 frame - Eugene
so your motor mount tore and leaked fluid? well, then this is the diy for you. I heard a bad clunking noise from the front passenger side of my car and became pretty convinced it was my motor mount. so i swapped them for the ones from 034 motorsports rubberized constructed ones. they're $45 a pop and better than OEM s4/rs4 mounts since they don't have any fluid in them.
and can be purchased here:
anyways, onto the writeup:
Passenger Side Mount Removal/Installation:
1) Remove airbox (no other way I could get to the top nut on that motor mount) Stage 3 cars have the turbo VERY close to the mount, a K03 or K04 may have more working room. there is a 13mm nut inside the red circle. you can go at it several ways, but i just did my best with my socket set and some crescent wrenches
Instead of accessing the nut from the top, I accessed it from under the car. This may not work for everybody but for me it was much easier, and did not have to touch the filter box or the heat shield. - other dude
I first used the regular size 3/8 drive to move the nut, then 1 /4 very small ratchet to undo it completely. Reverse for installation. (Comment by Jan Jonak)
2) Pull heat shield under the turbo up as far as you can to give you maximal working room.
3) Remove nut...its 13mm...you can only get a stubby wrench on it, and its too tight for that, so use a 13mm 1/4 drive socket that has a hole big enough for the bolt to come through. You won't be able to lock the socket wrench in, but you can get it in just enough to loosen it. It will come off with your fingers after that. (WJM Notes: I was able to break it free pretty easily, and then found I could get a fairly flat 1/4" driver on the nut. I had to finish the removal with the stub wrench though because as the nut backed off the 1/4" driver got pinned against the cat/heatshielding)
4) Remove the four (both driver and passenger side) 13mm bolts (circled in yellow in the pic) holding the sway bar bushings to the lower frame mounts.
5. You may need to loosen the end links (circled in yellow) and just swing the bar out of the way. 16 mm bolts on the end links. If you do this however, make sure your car is on ramps, and NOT jackstands! the pressure will shear the bolt and ruin your sway bar
make sure you just LOOSEN the endlinks, and only do so AFTER you have taken the bushings off the lower frame mounts. i broke the bolt holding the end links and now have to buy another bolt and figure out how to get the leftover bolt inside the sway bar out.
6) Mark the spot where the bottom mount nut is relative to the bracket (circled in yellow on the left side). Just draw a circle around it with a marker. Also notice where the little nub protrudes from the mount into the hole on the bracket. Look at your new mount...see how it has one nub, but the bracket has holes 180 degrees apart? This lines up the top of the mount, so mark it.
7) Remove the lower nut (13mm here too) from the engine mount.
8) Rig up a way to hold the engine up. I used a hydraulic jack, a piece of 2x4, and a piece of 3/4" plywood to push on both the oil pan and the snub mount bracket. Don't raise the engine, or raise it just a hair so you know you have it. Make sure this is stable. I put a jackstand next to it for safety (engine's...not mine).
9) Remove the three 18mm (circled in red) bolts holding the mount bracket to the frame. just use a breaker bar to get them loose, as soon as you do, it's pretty easy from there. the rear one is a bitch, so be prepared to use some elbow grease
10) There is some wiring attached to the bracket, it will keep it from falling out, but it can be rotated to allow the engine mount to come out. Pull it out and grab the washer that is on top of the mount. Put it on the new mount. Slide the new mount up and into place, remembering the little nub on the bottom, and making sure the two tabs go into the slots on the top bracket. (WJM-Its hard to see, but if you look at your new mount you will see two tabs or ears on the top. These locate the mount into the bracket. When you install the new mount, you will feel it "seat" in the proper orientation, just take note of the nub side....again I think there are openings 180 deg apart so it probably doesn't matter, but might as well)
11) Push the whole assembly back into place.
12) Bolt everything back together...one caveat...it will be very hard to get the top nut tight. I got it flush by hand, then used a stubby 13mm wrench and got it fairly tight. Then I put the 13mm stubby wrench on it and used a 3/4 long wrench to push the stubby 13mm wrench. (WJM-Remember that 1/4 " ratchet? Yeah will it fit again and I was able to snug it down real easily J)
I found this to be a big pain in my ass, so i used a crow's foot 13mm attached to a u-joint, attached to an extension then to my socket.
***NOTE: If doing driverside mount, fully install the passenger side mount, but do not reattach the sway bar.***
Driverside Mount Removal/Installation:
The driverside is very similar, yet WAY easier than the passenger. Since the sway bar is disconnected all you have to do, is:
13) Remove the screw holding the coolant reservoir tank in position, and swing the reservoir out of the way.
14) With a 13mm socket, remove the top engine mount nut.
15) Conduct steps 6-12 from above...
16) Reattach sway bar, and retighten end links.
Be careful, work slow, you should have no trouble.
Took me about 2 hours...the passenger side took me 1.5 hours and the drivers took me 30 minutes. the top nut is a bitch, the rear bolt is a bitch, and the damn lower frame didn't fall down all the way so you had to finagle the mount in and out.