View Full Version : DIY: B7 A4 Turbo/Intake Manifold Removal (STaSIS PDF file)

10-21-2011, 06:13 PM
So I have to say, I finally found this damn DIY

This has got to be the most seeked DIY for the 2.0tfsi platform.... With this useful knowledge you can polish your valves, get rid of that carbon, replace your injectors with RS4s or upgrade your check valve... Ect..

Without further adu...... The magic starts on page 28
Stasis Engineering DIY for longitudinal 2.0tfsi (http://www.stasisengineering.com/sites/default/files/install_pdfs/STaSIS%20MTF%20turbo%20install%20longitudial.pdf)

This is for their KO4 upgrade and to find the manifold removal start at page 28

All credit for the work goes to Stasis

10-21-2011, 06:43 PM
Thank god :D
Time to carbon clean

10-21-2011, 07:12 PM
very nice find

10-21-2011, 07:14 PM
Nice work Shane! I've always heard about this mythical DIY from Stasis from a friend of mine at school, but I could never find it!

10-21-2011, 08:02 PM
This should be moved to the DIY section.
Can't believe 70views and only 3 damn comments


Shane Drizzy Drake

10-21-2011, 09:02 PM
good looking Shane, once again!! 55pgs, thats one hell of a diy BUT def a goood one

subscribed bc I will need to do this soon

10-21-2011, 09:10 PM
Awesome find thanks man [up]

10-21-2011, 09:12 PM
quick question in your diy you diddnt pull the coolant pipe in this one they did. Is it really unnecessary to do it?

10-21-2011, 11:08 PM
Yes u need to pull it the first time, once you know what your dealing with I would say it's up to you. That first time your going to want it out of your way tho.
If your good you won't lose much coolant

10-22-2011, 12:16 AM
WOW! You're about 3 weeks late on this. I could've used some of this knowledge during my BT upgrade. Nonetheless, great find [up]

10-22-2011, 06:56 AM
Dayum! Good work Shane. It really doesn't look very hard, just time consuming. It really won't remove without removing the hpfp? Maybe uu should add the steps you used to clean the valves, and pictures of your valves?


10-22-2011, 07:07 AM
Damn!! Nice Find... I like DIY'ing, but this one for some reason kind of scares me like others have said tho looks more just time consuming than anything.

10-22-2011, 07:43 AM
Is it common to see injectors come out with the manifold? Im planning on doing this in the future but I think the injectors scare me the most.. They seem like a fragile thing to handle and reseal..
Also what tools/scrape/whatever do you use for removing the carbon?

10-22-2011, 09:29 AM
I do not remove the hpfp, I did the first time and since then have not, I use a 16" flathead with a thin head to scrape the valves.
The injectors may or may not come out in the manifold, and the plastic cages that hold them in don't necessarily need to be replaced, either do the o rings. The manifold gasket is of the reusable type, and make sure u have a magnet to get those manifold bolts and nuts out because they like to fall into this black hole down by the oil filter housing.

10-24-2011, 07:35 AM
Great find [up]

11-12-2011, 09:36 AM
Kristokes- do you think you could move this to the DIY section... It's useful for quite a few operations on the forums...

11-12-2011, 03:20 PM
Kristokes- do you think you could move this to the DIY section... It's useful for quite a few operations on the forums...


11-12-2011, 07:37 PM
Thx man- appreciate it :-)

12-26-2011, 01:28 AM
AWESOME FIND thanks man

09-02-2012, 12:24 PM
Question, the dividers inside of the intake ports, are they necessary? I'm not sure if they are there for a purpose such as catching oil or protecting the upper part of the valve, I'm just curious if it would be harmless to remove them?

09-07-2012, 09:25 PM
Pulled mine apart this evening, felt it might help to add what I learned here. First, the pics:


This PDF was amazing in helping me do this job. There were a couple things I came across that I will mention. The first, is the Lower Right side T30 bolt between cylinders 3 and 4. There is a very narrow hole that you have to get through with your tool to get to this bolt: over the throttle body, and between the cylinders:


I was using a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter on my ratchet, and it was too fat to fit through this space:


The socket itself was the perfect size, but the adapter couldn't fit through, so I had to devise a retarded tool, like I always do, with like three different bits and adapters with a screwdriver. Also, it wasn't long enough so I also had to completely remove the Throttle body as well:


The other issue was the 10 mm nut underneath towards the front. Even with the turbo coolant line completely unbolted, I couldn't phanagle it enough to get a socket on it, and there was not enough leverage to loosen it with a tiny 10 mm open ended wrench:


Luckily, I am also doing a Thermostat replacement so it didn't bother me that I needed to remove the alternator to get to this nut.

Thirdly, one of the injectors came out with the manifold. It looks pretty duurty. What should I do? I know the other injectors look the same. Should I pull them all, and take them to VW to have them cleaned and resealed?


09-08-2012, 06:40 AM
Thanks for posting your challenges jr....nice to have a heads up.

Plus the explanation helped with the big difference between you and draklores overview pics. You have the hpfp, alternator, and coolant tube removed and drake doesn't....

I'm going to remove the hpfp and check the follower...its been in there for 15k miles now. Also going to remove the coolant pipe becuase I'm also replacing the vacuum pump and coolant flange while at this.

I'm going to do my best to leave the altenator in place.

I had no intentions of pulling out my injectors....but wow....yours need some tlc so I'm guessing mine are right there with you, you're only 7K miles ahead of me (115 vs 122).

09-08-2012, 08:27 PM
Ok, finally fucking done. I must say, I will not be doing anything to my car for a very long time. I am sore, tired, I got really desperate for a couple moments, and I really, really need a shower.

I am almost at 122k MILES, none of that pussy KM shit.

The manifold removal is actually fairly simple. How do I know? Because like many of you before me that have done this, I did it twice. Fuck! Marting (mec) and I had the whole thing back on, aside from the up pipe, and I look down and notice that one of the tumble flap fucks was sitting there. I had put the three back when we were finished with them, and forgot to replace the last one when we were done with it. I was willing to say fuck it and see how it ran, but luckily Martin talked me down and was willing to pull it all out again with me.Sooo, the second time around, it took us about an hour to remove and replace. Could have been less if we would have just slowed down and thought about it better, but we were trying to take shortcuts. That was where the desperation kicked in and I felt the fear.

So, a quick before and after. The flaps were so dirty you could see wind marks cut through the carbon and it was growing over the edge, like a windy desert.


So, here's what I did. Three cylinders were completely closed, so I used BG ISC cleaner (per Bman005's suggestion) and filled the cylinders up to the top and soaked them overnight. I used a turkey baster to suck out about half of the juice, then used a combination of a flathead and a paint can opener (the curved tip works pretty well to get places the flathead can't) to scrape the goo off everything. It literally falls right off. Then I tried to suck the rest of the chunky juice out with the turkey baster.

PROBLEM: The turkey baster was plastic, and the BG stuff started melting it by the time I got to the 3rd cylinder, it was toast. It was an awesome method, but you will need a glass turkey baster, or maybe one of those rubber baby snot sucker bulb thingies would work too.

Then it was just a matter of cleaning up the residue with a flathead and a couple cloth towels. After the valves were fairly clean, I filled it with fresh BG and soaked it again, until I cam e back around to it. I also used my air compressor to blow anything out of the cylinder that I could, blocking the juice with a towel. This got a few hard to reach chunks out as well.

After the first 3 were done, I used a 19 mm socket and a ratchet to turn the crank and close the first cylinder from underneath the car. There is a rediculously poorly placed electrical connection right in the way that is held there with a plastic barbed compression tab. Martin was able to get a C clamp around the wiring and pull it out of the way. There is not room there for a human hand. Worked great, and just a few turns clockwise (with car in neutral) and the 1st cylinder was closed.

Literally the only things you need to do this job are

A T30 socket bit
A 10"-12" extension
A 4" extension
A 17mm wrench
An adjustable wrench
A phillips screwdriver
2 cans of ISC cleaner (I didn't use all of it, but definitely more than 1 can)
4 O rings to replace on the injectors
A 10 mm socket
The triple square bit (if you have abanjo bolt style HPFP)
An M10 socket (a 4" long one is recommended, this is what I had. You might be able to use a normal one with an extension)

You do not need to remove the HPFP, just the fuel lines from it.
I don't believe that you need to disconnect the coolant tube, but it definitely helps. Not too much coolant comes out anyway.

Pretty sure that was it.

edit: forgot to add I used a wire brush to get those flaps squeaky clean.

09-08-2012, 08:28 PM
OK, on to the quick test drive I took. I didn't get too crazxy with it, because it scares the fuck out of me to just romp on it when I have just messed with the intercooler piping. BUT, it is a pretty noticable difference. EVerything is soooooo much smoother. Like before when I would accelerate and then take my foot completely off the gas, the car would jerk, but now ti is completely smooth. Power comes on earlier, holds longer. It seems easier to build boost, and in the little drive I went on, it definitely felt like I could have gained a good 15-20 CHP. I would say it was immediately more noticable than the jump from stock SMICs to a FMIC. That big a difference. Only time will tell. I will keep updating as I have further data.

I dont' know if I would recommend this to everyone though. Each car is completely different, and they will all have different amounts of carbon. I strongly reccommend getting your valves scoped before getting balls deep in the car like this. Totally worth it if it is needed, but I would be very disappointed if I did all this work to find out there really wasn't an issue there. Martin and I went in on a boroscope together from Harbor Freight for around $100. Totally worth it. Any locals who want to borrow it, just need to help Martin pay for his speeding ticket he got on the way home from my house.

Big thanks goes out to Martin, for without him, I would have given up when I found that last tumbler laying on the ground. And he't not the drink your beer and watch kinda helper, he does at least 50% of the work, and refuses a beer when you offer it to him!!

09-08-2012, 08:31 PM
Thanks for all the added info guys, I did this a while ago before tearing into your motor was common or popular.
Withost everyone out of warranty now I feel this is long to be a useful DIY for everyone's future use :)

09-08-2012, 09:08 PM
Yep, it's an evil necessity on these engines. Not to mention most shops will charge around $500 for it. It's totally worth the time and man power to diy.

09-08-2012, 09:44 PM
Yep, it's an evil necessity on these engines. Not to mention most shops will charge around $500 for it. It's totally worth the time and man power to diy.

I was quoted $1100 to replace my coolant flange and vacuum pump. I figured if I asked them to do the carbon cleaning the quote would be in the $1600 range. I picked up the coolant flange and vacuum pump at genuine audi parts for about $225 delivered. So a weekend in the garage covers my daugthers soccer this year. Well worth it.

09-09-2012, 11:15 AM
Went for another quick drive to grab some injector cleaner and top off the tank. Came to a new realization. Before, I never felt like I had a rough idle, BUT, when in idle, the needle on the boost gauge would fluctuate on vacuum. Here is a video (ignore the actual numbers, it has been calibrated since then) of what it was like before. The needle would just bounce around in vacuum while idleing.


Today I noticed that the neddle holds a perfect -18 vacuum and doesn't budge or bounce at all.

Also, I was able to fill the whole tank without the pump clicking off even once. Coincidence?

And shifting has become much smoother. Before, when you would let off the throttle to shift, the engine would slow the car down enought to make smooth shifting difficult, now the car maintains speed through the shift, and doesn't jerk or lurch at all.

Also, I have always had this weird partial throttle issue, where you push the gas bedal in about 35% of the way and you are already at full throttle. So basically, it was either all or nothing for the most part when accelerating.
Now, the gas pedal actually feels useful, and I have mid range acceleration back. Partial throttle is gone!

Going on a mountain drive today with the wife, and will add any new findings if I see any!

10-13-2012, 01:15 AM
stupid banjo fitting

10-13-2012, 01:32 AM
3/4 injectors came out. I would like to second the notion of the above poster in saying don't do it unless you are sure. I had low to medium amounts of carbon. Especially cyl 2 and 4. I took mine off to replace an injector. Should have probably done all four. Oh well. Didn't take the reservoir off but I pulled the hpfp off attached to the fuel lines still. Fuck that banjo fitting. Run your engine harder IMO.

10-13-2012, 01:48 AM
stupid banjo fitting

03-19-2015, 04:32 PM
Damn thing wont load pics!!! Is it my computer or is the link dead?

03-19-2015, 06:39 PM
Lots of pics work...

04-20-2015, 07:44 PM
What the poop. The link no longer works. It worked 5 days ago.. But of course the day I go to do the job it does not work...........