PDA

View Full Version : DIY: B7 A4 Snub Mount Installation



Cottonmouth
08-14-2011, 01:07 PM
I recently had to replace the OEM snub mount on my car, so I decided to do a little DIY for those looking to do the same.

I would say this is a pretty easy job. Maybe a 2/10 on a difficulty scale.


Symptom:
I noticed the shifter on my car moving rearward during spirited driving. It progressively got worse to the point where it was happening for every shift. The shifter was moving up to 1/4".

This is when I decided it was a good idea to replace the snub mount.

Required Tools:


flat head screw driver
13mm socket
#6 torx bit
ratchet
jack & jack stands or ramps


http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6191/6042424091_75edf96bd8_b.jpg


First thing you will need to do is elevate the front of the car. I used ramps. You could also use a jack and jack stands. Either method should use the parking brake and chock the back wheels. Failure to do this could kill you!


Next grab your flat head screw driver and proceed to remove the screws from the skid plate. They should only need about a half turn to come out.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/6042967780_f238c77362_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6042967834_b435de86d9_b.jpg


Once removed, have a look under for the snub mount assembly.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6063/6042424351_f8b13bf94f_b.jpg


Use the ratchet and #6 torx bit to remove the bolts, and the 13mm socket to remove the nuts located in the picture below.
The brackets and OEM snub mount should come right out.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6141/6042424393_fec21aba7c_b.jpg


Here is what the front Snub bracket looks like removed.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6132/6042968074_d87a1f044f_b.jpg

Once it has been removed you should be left with this:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6148/6042424159_0fb35d0799_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6206/6042967566_8125e449e0_b.jpg


The OEM snub mount won't come off without effort, so try spraying some lube on it and it should make it a whole lot easier.
Here is how it looks removed.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6124/6042424301_e534d2a7d0_b.jpg


Here is a comparison between the OEM snub mount and the 034 Motorsports snub mount.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6124/6042424549_e4b6300d8d_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6121/6042967952_e731b05a63_b.jpg

This shot should give you an idea how soft the OEM snub mount is.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6069/6042968008_cbd1017630_b.jpg


Now spray the new snub mount with a bit of lube and push it onto the mount.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6086/6042967322_2ec3483fec_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6070/6042967240_deee0027b7_b.jpg


Now line everything up where it was removed from and screw in the #6 torx bolts where we removed them from. Then screw the nuts back onto the front bracket. (You should be able to see from the wear on the bracket how it was aligned previously).
Once installed it should look like this:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6130/6042424801_916c0956d1_b.jpg

Now start the car and run it for a minute or so to ensure there are no rattles of anything out of the ordinary. Turn off the car. Now go back under and re-install the skid plate. Remember the screws only need about a half turn to tighten. Don't forget there might be a few hot parts under there so don't burn yourself.

Put the car back on the ground and take it for a test drive. You should immediately feel little to no movement in the shifter while driving around and going through the gears.

sdy101
08-30-2011, 01:28 PM
Very nice writeup!! [up] [up]

Only other suggestions I would offer up, is that I also microwaved my new snub mount for about 30 seconds before sliding it over the lubed mount and used a feeler gauge to make sure the mount had clearance all around inside the bracket. It's a very nice mod for $40 (or less) and 30 min of your time.

BoSNiaN
09-18-2011, 06:46 PM
Do you mean torx 36? torx 6 would be pretty small....I tried with 40 and it was pretty loose, might have stripped my bottom bolt[:/]

BoSNiaN
09-22-2011, 07:55 PM
Anyone? [>_<] Subscribe to your own threads people!!

Cottonmouth
09-25-2011, 08:14 AM
Anyone? [>_<] Subscribe to your own threads people!!

I am subscribed.. I just haven't had a chance to go out and double check. My right arm has been out of commission due to a rather bad burn. I am planning on installing my 034 catch can very soon so I will have a look when I am under there hooking up the oil fitting.

The reason I said it was a #6 is because that is what was stamped on the side of the bit.

Cottonmouth
09-25-2011, 08:15 AM
Do you mean torx 36? torx 6 would be pretty small....I tried with 40 and it was pretty loose, might have stripped my bottom bolt[:/]

If you were under there then you must know what the correct size is right?

BoSNiaN
09-25-2011, 08:31 AM
Oh, no worries then, let me know when you check[:)]

But no, like I said, none of my standard bits fit (there is no #6 torx, they are all T# so I am wondering what you actually used).

Khaotic
09-25-2011, 09:08 AM
Just did this yesterday, and it is not torx bolts, it is allen (or hex as OP said) bolts so thats why none of your torx will fit.
If it is #6 allen head I cant say, I never looked at the allenbit I used but Im sure it is.

Cottonmouth
09-25-2011, 09:47 AM
Just did this yesterday, and it is not torx bolts, it is allen (or hex as OP said) bolts so thats why none of your torx will fit.
If it is #6 allen head I cant say, I never looked at the allenbit I used but Im sure it is.

Torx
http://www.etoolsrus.com/prodimg/EZ80160.JPG

Allen
http://www.mcfeelys.com/img/hex-drive-bit-HRA-0810.jpg

The bit was definitely torx

Cottonmouth
09-25-2011, 10:02 AM
Ok... So I checked my tools and it looks like I did use a #6 Allen bit to remove the bolt. The equivalent Torx should be a #40 I believe.

BoSNiaN
09-25-2011, 10:23 AM
Ok... So I checked my tools and it looks like I did use a #6 Allen bit to remove the bolt. The equivalent Torx should be a #40 I believe.

Knew something wasn't right [:p] Thanks but T40 (torx) doesn't work, its too loose and I may have already stripped my bottom bolt slightly. I'll try again later in the week with #6 allen, thanks again Cottonmouth!

@lube, what did you use to get the OEM off and the new one on? You think WD40 is a good idea?

Cottonmouth
09-25-2011, 11:02 AM
Knew something wasn't right [:p] Thanks but T40 (torx) doesn't work, its too loose and I may have already stripped my bottom bolt slightly. I'll try again later in the week with #6 allen, thanks again Cottonmouth!

@lube, what did you use to get the OEM off and the new one on? You think WD40 is a good idea?

I guarantee the #6 Allen will work fine. I didn't use any lube at all.

BoSNiaN
09-25-2011, 11:07 AM
I guarantee the #6 Allen will work fine. I didn't use any lube at all.

I meant for getting the OEM snub mount off and the 034 one on.

Cottonmouth
09-25-2011, 11:12 AM
The OEM one was so soft it slipped off fairly easy. The new one popped on with a little force. WD couldn't hurt.

a3s-line
09-25-2011, 01:16 PM
I ordered mine from APR but it has three pieces inside the package.I don't know why.Can anyone shed a light on this issue?
Is it hard to push inside the snub mount on the metal part? Should I lube it?

TheKid23
09-25-2011, 02:16 PM
There's been different options talked about, spray lube and microwaving it for several seconds. And, some haven't done anything but slipped it on.

BoSNiaN
10-23-2011, 01:42 PM
Just had the time to do it today [:D] Few observations after installing my APR mount:

1)Used my bare hands to pull the stock one off, good thing I replaced it as mine was beginning to degrade (cracks)
2)Didn't have to use grease or microwave the APR mount to get it on, simply placed it on the group and pushed the bracket into it
3)APR mount sticks out a bit....I don't know if its supposed to, but its longer than the actual bracket (10-15% of the mount goes over the edge of the bracket)

I definitely noticed a difference but it could just be in my head because I noticed the opposite of what normally happens...the car idles better (shifter vibrates less at idle), the car shifts better (gears feel more secure when found and helped smooth out my 3rd gear grind although it's not completely gone), and even shifts faster (lag between shifts feels reduced and that bump once you shift between the lower gears feels reduced too)[o_o]

p.s: download the APR pdf here (http://www.megaupload.com/?d=8E81Y8DD) for install snub mount instructions if you'd like a 2nd reference and obviously the steps are the same regardless of the brand.

Cottonmouth
10-23-2011, 02:01 PM
I would keep an eye on the APR snub mount. A few people have posted examples of them where they have deteriorated badly.

BoSNiaN
10-23-2011, 02:17 PM
I would keep an eye on the APR snub mount. A few people have posted examples of them where they have deteriorated badly.

I realize that now...I choose APR at the time (July?) because of their popularity, I think those people may have installed it improperly or microwaved it (has to do something bad to it...), but there is a lifetime warranty on them AFAIK so I am not too worried.

Btw, did the 034 stick off the bracket or was the end of it even with the bracket?

Broccolihash
02-24-2013, 10:27 AM
Excellent write up! Used it last night to install my AudiUP snub mount.

Cottonmouth
02-24-2013, 10:28 AM
Thanks man!

seal66
02-24-2013, 10:51 AM
good writeup man. The snub mount is one of those best bang for the bucket upgrades you could do.

Also if anyone gets the 034 zero vibration(or clearance bracket) don't remember the name, it fits the snub a lot more securely and is a total pain to get in unless you loosen the radiator support to put it on. But, it makes a hella of a difference. I ran both the stock snub bracket and 034 one so.

Anyways great writeup.

AdiDas
04-30-2013, 12:21 PM
Is this the same set up for the 3.2?

thanks

wildcat333
07-15-2013, 08:00 PM
Finally installed my 034 snub mount today. Really easy install. 3 hex nuts, and three 13mm nuts.
Lots of pics in case this helps anyone in the future:

scoping it out:
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/17D8E9E2-A66B-4FB3-B1BC-72C6060B59D6-5093-0000056C49570C89.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/17D8E9E2-A66B-4FB3-B1BC-72C6060B59D6-5093-0000056C49570C89.jpg.html)

removing it:
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/ECE988B6-CA27-4901-8201-B7A5262AE5E0-5093-0000056C527E16F4.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/ECE988B6-CA27-4901-8201-B7A5262AE5E0-5093-0000056C527E16F4.jpg.html)

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/85DFD26B-3F70-4D32-8773-22169A04CB46-5093-0000056C5ABBFBF2.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/85DFD26B-3F70-4D32-8773-22169A04CB46-5093-0000056C5ABBFBF2.jpg.html)

old OEM snub:
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/8019CD83-E624-42A8-8C0C-E5DDEC703AEA-5093-0000056C765E40EC.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/8019CD83-E624-42A8-8C0C-E5DDEC703AEA-5093-0000056C765E40EC.jpg.html)

oem parts:
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/F2216C95-0DC1-4C1B-ABD2-82D0F1C3E0F4-5093-0000056C62DD4156.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/F2216C95-0DC1-4C1B-ABD2-82D0F1C3E0F4-5093-0000056C62DD4156.jpg.html)

crumbled apart when removing:
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/0D447F3E-0A55-4B33-83A6-187BD34F5FC7-5093-0000056C8927C972.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/0D447F3E-0A55-4B33-83A6-187BD34F5FC7-5093-0000056C8927C972.jpg.html)

034:
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/0B4F6D44-74A6-4238-854A-D1E9EBDA0553-5093-0000056CA66B58CE.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/0B4F6D44-74A6-4238-854A-D1E9EBDA0553-5093-0000056CA66B58CE.jpg.html)

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/C5796DD9-D023-4A60-B200-3628057FE993-5093-0000056CBA2DE66E.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/C5796DD9-D023-4A60-B200-3628057FE993-5093-0000056CBA2DE66E.jpg.html)

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/21FA412F-E97E-4824-A087-CD4E913BAE1C-5093-0000056CC00371D8.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/21FA412F-E97E-4824-A087-CD4E913BAE1C-5093-0000056CC00371D8.jpg.html)

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/unhwildcat33333/5621E2A6-706C-4AFC-A2F9-CBF3B9D04553-5093-0000056CC5C213E0.jpg (http://s710.photobucket.com/user/unhwildcat33333/media/5621E2A6-706C-4AFC-A2F9-CBF3B9D04553-5093-0000056CC5C213E0.jpg.html)

djsnowman777
07-17-2013, 01:46 PM
is this only for manual or automatic also ?

Schweini
07-17-2013, 02:09 PM
is this only for manual or automatic also ?

both

Jmdavis13
07-25-2013, 07:34 AM
Going to do mine on Saturday hopefully

Johnnie
09-10-2013, 12:09 PM
i need to do this mine has some cracks in it. couple questions... actually 3

is the red and blue from 034 motorsports the same?

is it necessary to remove the front piece? looks like just removing the piece that you slide the snub into would suffice.

where can i get some more of the skid plate screws? i have a few missing.

thanks!

peb
09-15-2013, 11:05 AM
is it necessary to remove the front piece? looks like just removing the piece that you slide the snub into would suffice.

thanks!

I had to remove mine. I didn't have enough clearance to pull out the triangle mount part without doing so.

As for skid plate screws, the dealer, ecs or eruopaparts?

hoonee46
12-06-2013, 01:48 PM
Didn't read all the posts, but, I tried with multiple torx bits and stripped the bolts pretty badly. I was about to purchase extracting tools, but got an Allen bit set instead. Despite the badly stripped inside, allen#6 still worked perfectly. Torx and allen should not be interchanged, unless you like the risk of stripped bolts. Once again a reminder - difference between success and failure is correct tools VS just about right tools.



You asked me the same question in 2004...lol

Since BurntAudi answered you back then, I'll repost his answer:


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Hassmeister
My car is a '98.5 ... how about the GIAC K04 Chip?? Too much, toowild??
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Burntaudi

Hassmeister, I'm running the H valve on my car which is even more aggressive than the J valve. I would recommend it for your car.

I did a little research after I got my K04 in my car and what I found was.

J valve excellent for stock or chipped cars will hold 2-3psi of boost.

H valve excellent for K04 or larger turbo upgrades will hold 2-4 psi more boost. Not good for a chipped cars will posibly cause overboosting problems.

The N75 H valve is the same thing as what ECS sells as their N75 "race valve" like I said too aggressive for a chipped car.

As far as performance with the "C valve" I was seeing 18PSI spikes and holding at15-16PSI this was with GIAC K04 software.

Performance with the H valve in 75 degree weather 22PSI spikes in 1-3 gears holds at 18PSI spikes at 24-26 PSI in 4-5 gears did'nt see where it held since I backed off.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Via Tapatalk on LG G2

hoonee46
12-06-2013, 01:52 PM
is this only for manual or automatic also ?

I did both engine mounts and snub on my tiptronic. Pretty much same except driver's side mount has a sensor in autos. 034 mount do not have this. Just leave it unplugged, no issues here. If you do get an error, just purchase a resistor.

Via Tapatalk on LG G2

hoonee46
12-06-2013, 01:54 PM
I had to remove mine. I didn't have enough clearance to pull out the triangle mount part without doing so.

As for skid plate screws, the dealer, ecs or eruopaparts?

Even if you do somehow wiggle it out, you will not be able to install with the bigger snub in there. These are easier than the other 3 =d

Via Tapatalk on LG G2

waiapasi2006
12-22-2013, 05:23 AM
On my to do list. Great write up.
Any improvements on an auto transmission?

hoonee46
12-22-2013, 05:31 AM
Yes, smoother shifting, up and down. With stage one, it shoots out harder as it shifts into second. Entire car feels stiffer, with improved steering response and better feel of the road.
On the flip side, vibration at a stop and in D has increased, enough for girls to feel a tingle. I hear the motor more inside (for me this was a plus). You feel bumps on the road a bit more, but this also was a plus because the frequency of vibration got shorter as well...

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk