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View Full Version : DIY: $20 Carbon Clean-up 2.0T FSI *reference/walkthrough*



DRAKLORE
08-08-2011, 10:01 PM
BIG EDIT!!!!- I have found the PDF Walkthrough/DIY for the turbo,intake manifold, hpfp and injectors!
This is the god of all DIYs and should supersede any of the steps in my Walkthrough. Feel free to still use my pics as reference. But everything is clearly defined in the PDF
B7-A4-Turbo-Intake-Manifold-Removal-(STaSIS-DIY-PDF) (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/454454-B7-A4-Turbo-Intake-Manifold-Removal-(STaSIS-DIY-PDF)?p=7022702#post7022702)


Listen- it seems that more than a few of us have forgotten to make sure each installed injector has an o-ring upon reassembly. WHEN YOU ARE READY TO GO BACK TOGETHER, AND YOUR INJECTORS ARE ALL INSTALLED RESPECTIVELY. MAKE SURE THERE IS A BLUE O RING ON THE TOP OF EACH ONE. SOMETIMES THEY GET STICK IN THE FUEL RAIL, OR FALL OFF. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS YOU COULD BE REINSTALLING THE MANIFOLD AGAIN!
So here's the beans. I see everyone on here paying hundreds of doll hairs and Monēt to get their valves cleaned. So I figured Id at least try to help you save some $$, first off I'm cheap, this will cost you 15-30$ depending on what tools you already have and how crazy you want to get cleaning the gunk.
Second is that I learned how to remove the manifold after searching for days to find an rs4 inj DIY posted by a big tuning company for their ko4 kit DIY. If you can find it than link it.
Tools I can remember using.... Torx 25? Definently 27&30
An 8" bit driver extension preferably magnetized. 10mm 6pt with bit driver adapter. Assorted pliers and screw drivers. A 13,14,17mm open end wrenches. Maybe a 19mm too lol
A triple square bit, can't remember the size but I remember that the first time I took off the manifold I used a large Allen that fit the hole well, since then I went to autozone and bought the set of four, Bassically if your going to touch your audi pay the 12$ for the set...
Materials needed: some extra coolant, if your good you won't need much (1 qaurt) brakleen/carb cleaner of choice (at least four cans) shop rags and a drink of choice.

*****READ THIS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING, I NOR THE AZ ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS. USE THIS FOR REFERENCE ONLY, I WROTE THIS ON AN IPHONE AND IT'S BY NO MEANS A STEP BY STEP DIY BECAUSE I'M 100% I'M FORGETTING SOMETHING OR TAKING A SHORTCUT THAT I MYSELF FEELS COMFORTABLE DOING.... BE PREPARED TO SWEAT, SWEAR AND SAVE $$$.$$

First step:
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/96f5cd07.jpg
Remove your PCV, for me it was simple, for you maybe not... If this seems out of your league than go ahead and pay someone capable the 600$ to wash chemicals past your valves, after doing this three times, it's clear that no amount of chemicals unless pure acid will do shit to this gunk...
Step two:
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/6fa170ff.jpg
Remove the fuel line accross the top of the manifold, it is a 13/14mm and 17mm. I usually let the car sit a few hours before touching it, let's it cool down and the fuel bleed off, if you are eager and like getting 3rd degree burns beware cause this lone will piss fuel everywhere if you go at it immediately. Also notice the screw on that black tube, that is your coolant bleed 10mm just remember thats where and what I'm talking about.
Step ?:
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/6b63a119.jpg
Disconnect your hpfp, the pissing fuel rule applies here as well, if u want and have small hands, it helps to reach down and pull up on the metal line while gently using your fore finger to undo the metal nut. Caution possibly hot.. Also unplug your hpfp connector just for giggles. If your running a boost tap
Than unplug that and set it to the side.
Step get it done:
Here's your upper coolant tube, where that blue rubber points is a hidden screw, t27? Undo it and it will let you move the upper hose enough to get the other torx below it, after that get some rags or w/e and undo that clamp, slide apart the hose and tube and position the hose so it's not spewing out coolant off to the side.
Under here is a sensor, unplug it..
A step:
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/b6fde8a5.jpg
Here's some connectors to remove, you will swear the middle and right one don't exist, but as soon as you got to remove the manifold u will see lol, if you search u can find them and remove with a flathead screwdriver, wait for the familiar VAG click and then wiggle them off, at this point I suggest removing your charge pipe, you do not need to remove your throttle body! If you want more clearance than do it, it's literally just another four t27 bolts, regardless you will need to remove the TWO connectors from it, than walla. Now look at your dipstick tube, it's got a t27 holding it the the IM, remove the screw and yank, ideally you would remove your dipstick but I'm laZy and u don't need to for the remove portion. Now look down next to whee you just yanked out your tube. There is a funny looking triple square bolt, this one is attached to a support bracket that connects to the IM and is right next to another that I've misstakingly taken out before :-/ ideally use the proper tool but I've used a large metric Allen, and a flat head the second time :/ lol
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/982dff9c.jpg
^^ dipstick tube hole>> the IM support bracket bolt is literally the one a few inches above this hole, do yourself a favor and remove it completely ;-) next is a weird vacuum thing that needs to get removed, it's got on of those PITA clips that can't be reused, I always zip tie mine back on, you do whatever you want. Idc
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/3bbd672c.jpg
^ note that you can disconnect it further up, but then you would have to disconnect that connector=extra step and like I said I'm lazy.
Great pic here
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/2f1a37e8.jpg
Here you can see the hidden middle
Connector at the top of the pic and one of the throttle body area connectors,
Also you can see where I disconnected that vacuum deal from and the support bracket for the manifold. Here my TB is removed, not neccesary, someone asked if I replace those inset rubber gaskets.
ME NO! You... ? If you have the dough and want that extra "insurance" go ahead, in my personal experience Ford deems this exact design gasket to be "multi use" that's why it sets I a track and is a quality rubber material, I've personally never replaced mine not had a problem, but if I do this again than yes I will because this is a wear and tear item after multiple torque downs and where I'm running a BT... So do what you want.[:|]
Here is a better pic of the manifold mounting surface
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/fcc23cb9.jpg
As you can plainly see, the top of the manifold has FIVE bolts... The bottom of the manifold has TWO bolts In the center, and ONE stud/nut on each lower corner. These all have very accessible tracks that with a bit driver and extension can be reached easily, I suggest a magnet tip to grab them out, especially the nuts... The bolts are t27 and the nuts are 10mm. After this
You now can yank out the manifold!!!! You must first
Lift up on the coolant tube and get the corresponding bracket away from the tab it sits in, then move the other bracket up and away from it's plastic resting spot. Now finangle with the fuel line to get it situated and yank! It is really on there, you will wiggle and yank and swear it's still bolted on somewhere, maybe you left the support bracket still connected! But here comes the hardest part. The two lower studs are just long enough to make you think the manifold isn't coming off without removing the other metal tube bracketed on the left of the IM but your wrong, once the injectors
Let go of the manifold you just really give it some maneuvering and yanking and it will come right out. Just check all four injectors for the blue o ring as some times those come off. :-() you can now replace your injectors if u want? Go ahead and take them out and clean them, getting them out can be tricky, but if your smart you won't need the special tool :-)
Here's a pic of your map sensor, if you have a FMIC, or upgraded charge pipe, I suggest just removing it as opposed to pushing or stressing it to the side :-/
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/ac3a6671.jpg
Here's the face of the I'M you can see the flappers and gasket, I've never had to clean the inside of the manifold.
Here's your charge pipe and TB on meth, you can see three of the four TB bolt holes and connector interface.

Now CLEAN YOUR VALVES- (there are metal shims that split each intake port in half, pull these out gently and clean them) your valves are right there in front of you, exposed you can see the situation, you will have a few if not most of them will he closed, my method is this, I spray them with cleaner and if the valve is closed I let them soak, I then take my trusty this long and skinny flathead and GENTLY scrape the carbon away, DO NOT PRY, CHIP, STAB OR HAMMER! use your head and take your time, I woulnt recommend using anything that is not solid to do this B/C u don't want to drop anything in that chamber :/ also I don't use a wire brush, they lose the bristles and now you have a potential for a bent valve, I just keep repeating this process until the valves are like new.
Clean and check everything prior to install as organization is the key to success! Make sure all of your seals and connectors/ bolts are there and routed, clean your mating surface as well!

To reassemble just repeat your steps backwards, only
Difference will be lining up the holes/studs, and after your finished you need to remove that coolant bleed screw (remember) and fill your coolant, let the car prime the fuel pump before starting, turn key on and
Of at least twice, then turn over, car will run funny for a few
Seconds then come right out of it, after the car runs long enough for the thermostat to open turn the car off, loosen the bleeder and fill resevoir until it comes out the bleeder.
SIT BACK enjoy the 600$ you just saved and don't forget to thank me :-)

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FUCK THIS UP!! it's simple and easy
For me, if you feel overwhelmed at any point PM me or post in this thread and we will help you, do not start this without proper preparation***

Sorry if the pics don't work, this was all done by iPhone so I will fix them later

wootwoot
08-08-2011, 10:20 PM
This is a great tutorial, thx DRAKLORE.

drumnjuny
08-08-2011, 10:29 PM
i am way too pansy to attempt this by myself. anyone in CO with experience wanna tag team this bitch?

and thanks for the DIY, looks easy enough

billyhoyle
08-08-2011, 10:52 PM
Wow, great writeup. I've been wondering how much of a process this was. What type of cleaner should you use?

DRAKLORE
08-08-2011, 10:58 PM
Anything like brakleen or carb cleaner, u can use seafoam and let it sit on there but basically anything your not afraid to run through the cylinder real quick, I use brakleen cause I like how high... I mean I like how it evaporates so I don't have to run it through the motor. If you use something that doesn't necessarily evaporate, than you run the extremely small risk of using too much and hydrolocking your motor, of course that's extreme but some dumbass will take a garden hose or pressure washer to his valves just watch lol

wootwoot
08-08-2011, 11:18 PM
Do you have any before and after pics?

DRAKLORE
08-09-2011, 04:49 AM
I'll take some after pics, I dint snap any befores, but if you search for 2.0tfsi carbon valves on google images than you will get the idea, there is literally no limit to how clean you can get your valves

billyhoyle
08-09-2011, 09:55 AM
Anything like brakleen or carb cleaner, u can use seafoam and let it sit on there but basically anything your not afraid to run through the cylinder real quick, I use brakleen cause I like how high... I mean I like how it evaporates so I don't have to run it through the motor. If you use something that doesn't necessarily evaporate, than you run the extremely small risk of using too much and hydrolocking your motor, of course that's extreme but some dumbass will take a garden hose or pressure washer to his valves just watch lol

Lol hey, pressure washer sounds like a great idea [>_<]

BoSNiaN
08-21-2011, 08:55 AM
I'll take some after pics, I dint snap any befores, but if you search for 2.0tfsi carbon valves on google images than you will get the idea, there is literally no limit to how clean you can get your valves

Did you have time to snap some after pics?[:)]

papadelogan
08-21-2011, 09:29 AM
i am way too pansy to attempt this by myself. anyone in CO with experience wanna tag team this bitch?

and thanks for the DIY, looks easy enough

I'm in Frederick, CO and just bought my B7 A4 about 2 weeks ago with ~100k on the clocks. Let me read through this a couple more times and maybe we can get a couple people together and knock a few out in one (long?) afternoon.

DRAKLORE
08-21-2011, 09:29 AM
Sorry Bosnian but this writip was written after the fact. So all the pictures are actually after cleaning.
If your willing to trust me I've pulled some images that I believe are a gods representation of my valves before and after. You can look the the pictures above and see even the tracts are the white aluminum color.

*not my pic*
before representation-
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2574/3729989363_071fc8c6e6_o.jpg

Again not my pic but a very very clear representation of my results-
http://uploader.meinwirt.com/files/178/Clean%20Intake%20Valves.jpg
Of course I cleaned up a bit more than that pic shows but again very close

EMAXX
11-12-2011, 09:16 AM
So I have a question. When you were doing this, did you scrape out all the carbon and then just let it drop into the motor, or did you clean it out with something?

DRAKLORE
11-12-2011, 09:47 AM
big edit at the top of the page!!!
I would spray in the cleaner and let it soak, then with a rag on the end of the screwdriver I would soak up the carbon soup and repeat. Everything else I did let fall into the engine, if you can find a way to get it all out then cool. But it mostly a fine carbon silt and I doubt it would hurt anything

kristokes
11-12-2011, 03:23 PM
Moved.

DRAKLORE
11-12-2011, 07:39 PM
Hey thx man, Some good info

Nikoman
12-13-2011, 07:20 AM
My before / after pics from 12/6/11:

BEFORE:

http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/before4.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/before5.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/before3.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/before2.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/before1.jpg

AFTER:

http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/after3.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/after4.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/after2.jpg
http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv207/nminakis/2006%20A4%20Carbon%20Cleaning/after1.jpg

BoSNiaN
12-13-2011, 09:59 AM
Wow, big difference. Although I would say you didn't say a lot of build up in the first place which makes sense since your mileage is low (I've seen a ton of worse pictures).

On another note, can you post a picture or maybe find one on google of the tools you think would be best to clean the insides with?

DRAKLORE
12-16-2011, 07:07 PM
Awesome follow ups guys, let's get ericpaulyoungs pics in here too

shiro1745
02-07-2012, 07:41 AM
1. If the valve is closed, is there a risk for the cleaner to leak into the chamber. I'm basically wondering if the closed valve holds the cleaner 100% so nothing goes into the chamber? Or it's leaking very slowly and I should be careful how long I let it soak?
I'm planning to do this in a week or so when I'll do my timing belt and RS4 PRV.

2. Is there anything I should check or replace since I'll do these?

3. I guess there no way to do a quick injector cleaning, is there? I know I could send my injectors and have them cleaned by a specialized shop, but just wandering if there's a method to do a safe quick cleaning at home.

DRAKLORE
02-07-2012, 08:58 AM
The cleaner is extremely flammable... Thus evaporates rapidly. I would reccomend that after you clean everything, let it sit for an hour (if your worried)

I feel most of you will not be able to beat my record time of 25 mins putting the manifold on and by the time
Your ready to start te motor the cleaner will have evaporatd, if not. It will get pushed out the valves after a few cranks


Great idea on doin the PRV while manifold is off.
Could be a good time to tackle your thermostat, or n80, replace inter cooler piping, clean your map, clean your intake flappers, clean your TB,

I filled a glass with the cleaner, then set the bottom portions of the injectors in the fluid.
I used light abrasives to clean the bodies of the injectors and a toothbrush to clean everything else on them.

DRAKLORE
03-20-2012, 02:48 PM
HERE IS A TESTIMONIAL TYPE THREAD, I know there are a few more out there. But some good cliff notes and pictures in this thread!
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/476426-Carbon-Clean-Shit-SO-FAST-RESULTS

papadelogan
04-22-2012, 09:31 AM
I attempted this task today but ran in to a problem getting the forwardmost IM nut & bolt out. The oil feed line would not move enough for the to be able to gain access to remove either one. After the past few weeks of busting my butt to build a permanent roof over my deck, I just was not in the mood to fight with anything. I know I could probably remove the oil feed line for the turbo and that would resolve the issue, but I'll post a picture up to see if anyone has another idea that would let me get these loose.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv148/papadelogan/audi/B7A4_tech/IMG_3659.jpg

DRAKLORE
04-22-2012, 09:41 AM
If you dsconnect the rubber coolant hose from the metal hard tube and rice the bolt from the manifold, then push that somewhat out of the way. Then try to push the oil line out of the way enough to get an extension down to the bolt. Then walla you should be good. It's going to have to move enough to sneak the manifold
Past it anyways.

Good luck

papadelogan
04-22-2012, 11:02 AM
I had the tube & coolant pipe disconnected and can see that once it's loose, I can see how the manifold would slide out, but getting those last 2 locations freed up..... UGH. Looks like my Carbon Cleaning weekend will have to be combined with when I put in my HFC and turbo rebuild. Goody goody. I'll have everything ripped off the block by time I'm half-way done.

schmiesus
05-11-2012, 08:33 AM
With the open Valves how did you handle those or did you roll the motor over?

DRAKLORE
06-11-2012, 05:43 AM
I
Didn't, but
Most just roll the motor over via the crank bolt.
The carbon is gummy and some
Guys have managed to shop vac out each valve. Regardless of how
You manage it, I wouldn't be too worried of a little of the carbon fell into Le cylinder, it will just blow
Out when you crank the motor over[up]

schmiesus
06-11-2012, 08:34 AM
All good I just kicked the motor over

DRAKLORE
06-25-2012, 09:59 PM
How were the results?

schmiesus
08-02-2012, 04:39 PM
New car basically, hasn't idled this well since I bought her.

DRAKLORE
08-02-2012, 04:51 PM
Awesome!
[up]

DoThisMyWay
02-27-2013, 11:17 AM
I did a carbon clean this past weekend. Thank you for the walk through and PDF. It came in handy when I got stuck a couple times. Over all the job was pretty easy but very time consuming and if I do it again, I might invest in a walnut shell blaster. The digging, scrapping, spraying took a really long time. Also, the valves were dirty but I expected the conditions to be worse since I have almost 140k on the clock but the cleaning did help. I only had a couple issues with a lost o-ring and brittle breather hose that snapped in half. Other than that, the whole job went as planned and I save myself some $. [up]

Oh yeah, the damn banjo bolt would not come off. So, the HPFP had to come out with the intake manifold and I'm happy to report with 60k on my second follower, it still looks brand new! No follower issues with this 2.0T!

DRAKLORE
09-22-2013, 06:56 AM
That's good to hear, I'm going to have to tackle a carbon clean on my new B7 to get a baseline and see where it's at!
Wish me luck

fR3ZNO
10-09-2013, 03:55 PM
A friend of mine has a B7 and I don't think he's aware of this carbon build up issue. But, would it be possible to use Seafoam sucked in through a vacuum line to clean the carbon out? Or would it not really do anything?

DRAKLORE
10-09-2013, 05:22 PM
It's been done many times before, and honestly it doesn't really tackle the buildup. At least not even close to the extent of the manual cleaning

fR3ZNO
10-15-2013, 07:41 AM
It's been done many times before, and honestly it doesn't really tackle the buildup. At least not even close to the extent of the manual cleaning

Ah I see, I should have known, if it cleaned the valves as well as a manual cleaning, then what would be the point of tearing apart the intake and everything?

papadelogan
10-15-2013, 09:21 AM
Ah I see, I should have known, if it cleaned the valves as well as a manual cleaning, then what would be the point of tearing apart the intake and everything?

Winner winner chicken dinner!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

youloze
05-04-2014, 12:09 PM
Did Audi change the color of the injector o-ring by chance. Everywhere I look they are black like in this link http://www.europaparts.com/injector-o-ring-035906149a.html

Are these the correct o-rings for a B7 A4? Its just the color that's throwing me off.

Thanks!

DRAKLORE
05-04-2014, 12:41 PM
Did Audi change the color of the injector o-ring by chance. Everywhere I look they are black like in this link http://www.europaparts.com/injector-o-ring-035906149a.html

Are these the correct o-rings for a B7 A4? Its just the color that's throwing me off.

Thanks!
Could just be a generic pic, but my guess is that they have put out a revision on the O-Ring and they are now black.
Says it will fit, I would go for it. Worse case scenario just contact hugh?

youloze
05-04-2014, 12:55 PM
Could just be a generic pic, but my guess is that they have put out a revision on the O-Ring and they are now black.
Says it will fit, I would go for it. Worse case scenario just contact hugh?

Yeah I'm thinking the same, just didn't want to tear everything apart only to find out they won't work and be stuck.

Thank you sir. Also thanks for the write up!

youloze
05-08-2014, 01:09 PM
Thanks for the writeup and the link to the Stassis PDF Draklore. Did my cleaning yesterday and it turned out great. Although I'm an idiot and I put the manifold back on without the dividers that sit in the valves. At least I got very good at taking the manifold off :)

I dont really have any extra advice for anyone that hasn't already been covered but here are a couple before and after pics of my cleaning. Thanks again. BTW, idle is so much better, no more shaking and boost comes on harder as well. Good stuff.

**Edit** I actually do have something to note. I noticed that it was much easier to scrape the majority of the carbon off the valves when they were dry (before I sprayed cleaner on them or poured in Seafoam). I was able to get most of the carbon off that way and it's easier to blow out/vacuum. Then I poured Seafoam in and let them soak and cleaned again. Then finally I used carb cleaner for the final clean. Lots of work but tuned out good.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/youloze/Audi%20A4/2007%20A4/20140506_145750_zps6c7572ce.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/youloze/Audi%20A4/2007%20A4/20140506_180003_zpsf33fa7f0.jpg

blingaling
06-06-2014, 10:25 AM
Ok so ran into a problem, everything is disconnected that i can see and by the pdf file besides the fuel pump fuel line because it will not come off, personal preference i wish i had a banjo bolt and not the fuckin soft line, and the 3 connectors underneath the manifold that the pdf never mentions about taking off. All i can do is wiggle the manifold, wont pull put or anything. And i dont want to break anything. All bolts up top are out, the two on the bottom, the 2 nuts and the m10 but nothing it just wiggles. And the 3 connectors im talking about one is a fuel line the other is that line that runs up by the brake boost line and the other is a connector they say to remove but mine is fuct, wont come off and the tab has already been broken after many attempts. Idk what to do


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youloze
06-06-2014, 04:26 PM
It does take some rocking and pulling side to side to break it free. Does it wiggle at all?

blingaling
06-06-2014, 08:43 PM
I got it shortly after posting lol all in all took me about 6 hours. I could deff do it a lot faster now just ran into a lot of dumb things like running out of cleaner and i lost the bottom right nut and magnet fished for a good 2 hours until i gave up finished assembling and now im stuck waiting on one nut lol everything is cleaned, assembled and connected.


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blingaling
06-07-2014, 06:44 AM
So i officially lost the bottom right nut somewhere when trying to get it on(trying to get my nut on, giggity lol) would anyone worry about where it fell considering there isnt anything for it to fall in the way of or fall into and its stainless? I replaced the nut but not sure how worried i should be about where it fell. Please advise, thanks.

-Bryan


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youloze
06-07-2014, 07:44 AM
You should be fine. I lost the same one and actually found it in a tiny spot under the manifold after I took the manifold off for a second time because I forgot to put in the stupid dividers in the valves lol. Anyway I wouldn't worry about it, there's nothing down there that it could interfere with.

blingaling
06-07-2014, 07:51 AM
So my car wont start at all, battery is fine it just wont crank


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youloze
06-07-2014, 08:01 AM
Did you make sure you plugged in all of the sensors?