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fly300kts
02-19-2011, 03:29 PM
Hi Guys,
Finally did my Tiptronic transmission flush & Pan filter at 100 000 miles. Here below a little DIY.

Disclaimer: you are using this DIY at your own risk. This is for information ONLY and does not replace any Manufacturer approved documentation/procedure

Even if really expensive, I highly recommend to using ONLY the OEM fluid

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/DSC03440Large.jpg

Parts

G060162A2 ATF fluid 6 liters (confirm the type of ATF with your VIN number at the Dealer. Incorrect fluid will damage your tranny)
09L321371 Pan Gasket
09L325429 Pan Filter

Difficulty: 4
Time: 3.5 hours
Tools:

Flat head screwdriver
Small level
7 mm Allen head socket
17 mm Allen head socket
T-25 Torx head socket
A good ratchet set with extensions
Torque wrench
Fluid pump (Harbor Freight - $8)
Ross Tech Cable

The car has to be level and high enough to crawl under. Here was my solution

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/DSC03441Large.jpg

This procedure has to be performed only on an engine totally cold.
Remove the rear splash guard covering the transmission belly pan
Take a small level and check belly pan for level. Take measurements sideways and front to back. If the pan is not leveled, make appropriate adjustments until perfectly level. This is a very important step.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p002.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p003.jpg

Locate the 8mm Allen drain plug and the 17 mm Allen fill plug on the belly pan
Blue arrow = Drain plug
Red arrow = fill plug

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p004.jpg

Loosen 17mm Allen fill plug first. Take an extension, the plug is tough to break loose. We want to make sure we can refill the transmission before we drain it. Do not remove it
The, remove the drain plug (blue arrow) and drain the oil.
Using the T-25 Torx head and ratchet, loosen the 27 fasteners holding the belly pan. Remove all but 1 fastener. Gently loosen the remaining screw and the pan will start to tilt, allowing draining of the ATF.
Remove the old gasket and discard.

Lifetime fluid…yeah right!!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p005.jpg

The next step involves wiping down the inside of the belly pan and cleaning the magnets. Solvents are not necessary and you do not want the risk of any residue solvents breaking down the new fluid. You can pull of the magnet, just remember to reinstall them.
Pretty messy inside and you can clearly see the deposit on the magnets

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p0006.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p007.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p0007b.jpg

Just pull on the old filter and clip in place the new one

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p0008.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p0009.jpg

Reinstall the Belly Pan and New Gasket
Install all the screws by hand to make sure the gasket is properly centered all around

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/p0010.jpg

Once all bolts are in place Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft lb). In order to achieve uniform torque, choose 2 fasteners opposite of each other as start points. Torque the fasteners in an alternating fashion until all are fully secured.

Here are the CRITICAL STEPS:

Hook up the VagCom cable and go to: Select Control Module > 02 Auto Trans > 08 Meas. Blocks > Group 004. This will allow you to monitor the temperature of the ATF fluid.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/P0011.jpg

Do NOT start vehicle yet, just keep the key in the ON position.

With the car still OFF, begin pumping fluid back into the transmission. You will need to insert the hose up through the fill hole and towards front of the vehicle. It should take about 2.5 – 3 liters before some overflows. Hand tight the fill plug.
Start the car. While keeping your foot on the brake, cycle through all the gears, holding each gear for 15 seconds. Go from “P” through “D” and back up from “D” to “P”. It is not necessary to run through the gears via the TIP mode. With the car in “P” and motor still running, remove the fill plug again and start pumping again until overflow. Also, be mindful that the ATF fluid temp must be below 40 degrees Celsius. Cycle through the gears again and pump fluid in until overflow while the car is still running. Repeat this process as many times as you can before the fluid reaches 40 degrees. Once you are approaching 40 degrees Celsius, re-install the fill plug before shutting off the motor. If you fail to do this, the car will dump fluid. Allow the car and fluid to cool down.

Once the car and ATF Fluid cools down (I waited until 32 degrees Celsius) start the car again and cycle the gears, same as before. Open the fill plug and continue pumping fluid into the transmission until over flow. Continue to cycle the gears and pump fluid until you reach 40 Degrees. Once you reach 40 degrees, pump until overflow, and reinstall the fill plug. Once the fill plug is re-installed, shut off the motor. Torque the fill plug to 80Nm (59 ft lbs).
If you did the process correctly, you should have gotten 5-5.5 liters into the transmission, minus the spillage. If you did not get at least six (6) quarts in, or if issues arose on the test drive, jack the car up again and allow to cool for several hours or overnight. Start the car, cycle the gears, remove the fill plug and keep pumping fluid until you get overflow at 40 degrees Celsius. Remember to re-insert the fill plug before shutting down the motor

Then, I test drove the car and what a difference: No more kicking, not even slight, on any mode!

Let me know if any question
Phil

Coderedpl
02-19-2011, 03:48 PM
Wow, and I actually started a topic about this a few weeks back. Asked a shop about it and it came out to be over 500 bucks.

So questions: You pretty much pump the fluid in while the car is on, if it gets too close to 40 degrees, you remove the filler hose, close the plug and kill the engine to let it cool, once it cools, repeat until you get to about the 5 liters?

fly300kts
02-19-2011, 04:01 PM
Wow, and I actually started a topic about this a few weeks back. Asked a shop about it and it came out to be over 500 bucks.

So questions: You pretty much pump the fluid in while the car is on, if it gets too close to 40 degrees, you remove the filler hose, close the plug and kill the engine to let it cool, once it cools, repeat until you get to about the 5 liters?

Exactly, if done correctly, you will refill with at list 5 liters minimum and 6 liters maximum.
My exact amout 5 1/4 liters

Phil

Coderedpl
02-19-2011, 04:59 PM
Will save me 500 bucks. Where did you buy the parts?

fly300kts
02-19-2011, 05:03 PM
Everything from the dealer

Phil

Coderedpl
02-19-2011, 05:29 PM
Cost on parts?

Inked
02-19-2011, 05:30 PM
Nice DIY....after seeing the quality(or lack ther of) of the old trans fluid, Do you still think 100k is the time to change it? or earlier?

event
02-19-2011, 05:35 PM
From what I've read the tip fluid never needs changing, I know it's not even on the maintenance schedule I have. I could be wrong though.

fly300kts
02-19-2011, 05:51 PM
From what I've read the tip fluid never needs changing, I know it's not even on the maintenance schedule I have. I could be wrong though.

You are right but this is total bullsh**** from Audi. A Tip tranny needs to be flushed, just look at the fluid!
For sure, Audi will prefer sell you a new tranny.

Phil

fly300kts
02-19-2011, 05:51 PM
Cost on parts?

$350

Phil

Coderedpl
02-19-2011, 06:25 PM
I'll change mine at 100k

DioTrix
02-19-2011, 07:10 PM
this for audi a4 2.0 tfsi tiptronic ?

G 060162A2 ATF fluid How much? 5 or 9 liters (full change)

09l321371 oem gasket

and plz give me OEM № Pan filter ?

fly300kts
02-19-2011, 07:20 PM
this for audi a4 2.0 tfsi tiptronic ?

G 060162A2 ATF fluid How much? 5 or 9 liters (full change)

09l321371 oem gasket

and plz give me OEM № Pan filter ?

Correct Audi A4 2.0 Quattro Tiptronic
Get 6 liters of the ATF fluid and you can always return 1 if you did not use it.
I left the invoice at the shop, I will post the pan filter Part Number tomorrow

phil

mmadlang
02-20-2011, 07:02 AM
Awesome DIY... Great job Phil!

D0lphinGrey
02-20-2011, 07:57 AM
Then, I test drove the car and what a difference: No more kicking, not even slight, on any mode!

Let me know if any question
Phil

Great write up! Can you elaborate on the "kicking"? I might have the same problem, maybe changing ATF will fix it?

AudiTFSI3o3
02-20-2011, 08:24 AM
nice writeup Phil. with the kicking I mentioned earlier i might just fill some more fluid and properly cycle through each gear

fly300kts
02-20-2011, 08:57 AM
Great write up! Can you elaborate on the "kicking"? I might have the same problem, maybe changing ATF will fix it?

Let me try to define "kicking" the best I can:

In "D" mode: first drive in the morning, the car was shifting pretty hard (up or down gear), even sometimes she was like slipping, RPM increasing by 200 between gear. When engine hot, arriving at a stop light for example, always kicking (not a smooth transition) from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st.
In "S"mode, shifting pretty hard on 2nd and up.

On a separate post, I was complaining about RPM fluctuation when the car was cold in the morning. I found a loose vaccum hose but sometimes, I was still having RPM fluctuations. This morning, in 6th gear, 1800 rpm, the needle was rock steady.

Hope this will help
Phil

fly300kts
02-20-2011, 08:58 AM
this for audi a4 2.0 tfsi tiptronic ?

G 060162A2 ATF fluid How much? 5 or 9 liters (full change)

09l321371 oem gasket

and plz give me OEM № Pan filter ?

Pan filter PN: 09L325429

Phil

RedS-line
02-20-2011, 03:39 PM
bravo. i wonder what the dealership charges for this service if its 350 just for the parts!?! this will be on my to-do list shortly. for those of us that dont know, what is the comparison of the old fluid to the new fluid? im guessing its not supposed to be that dark??

fly300kts
02-20-2011, 04:06 PM
bravo. i wonder what the dealership charges for this service if its 350 just for the parts!?! this will be on my to-do list shortly. for those of us that dont know, what is the comparison of the old fluid to the new fluid? im guessing its not supposed to be that dark??

Got a quote from dealer: 3.5 Hrs x $135 = $472.5 + Taxes + Parts
The new oil looks similar to the motor oil when new except the smell: this crap stinks bad !!!

Phil

airbornerifleman
02-21-2011, 09:09 AM
Another excellent DYI by our friendly neighbourhood pilot!
Good job, Phil.

fly300kts
02-22-2011, 07:46 AM
Another excellent DYI by our friendly neighbourhood pilot!
Good job, Phil.

Your welcome

Phil

fly300kts
02-22-2011, 07:48 AM
Another excellent DYI by our friendly neighbourhood pilot!
Good job, Phil.

Your welcome

Phil

tarunpatel
02-22-2011, 10:24 AM
Now would the procedure still be the same if you have a automatic CVT trans also?

fly300kts
02-22-2011, 10:44 AM
Now would the procedure still be the same if you have a automatic CVT trans also?

I am not sure since I was not able to read/test the CVT model

Phil

mmadlang
02-22-2011, 11:15 AM
Now would the procedure still be the same if you have a automatic CVT trans also?

This is not the same as CVT trans. ATF fluid, gasket, filter, fill and drain locations, and tools are different. The procedure is the similar though. I looked at Bently, and other forums, it seems that CVT requires a different tool to fill the fluid. It's using VAS 5162 vs VAS 6262.

Phil, what tool did you use to refill the ATF?

-Mark

naiku
02-24-2011, 12:28 PM
Another great DIY! One thing I did not see mentioned though, do you need a full version of VAG-COM from Ross Tech? or does the Ebay cable work?

Coderedpl
02-24-2011, 12:33 PM
Out of curiosity, why is it so important and crucial to have the car level?

fly300kts
02-24-2011, 01:07 PM
Phil, what tool did you use to refill the ATF?

-Mark

Hey Mark,

No VAS tool required. This pump is perfect, Harbor Freight = $7

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/image_1800.jpg

Phil

Quattro
02-24-2011, 01:08 PM
phill, why must we live so far from each other?

fly300kts
02-24-2011, 01:14 PM
Out of curiosity, why is it so important and crucial to have the car level?

As you will see on the schematic here below, the top of the filling tube it's what makes the correct level. Since the tranny is pretty long, in case the car ls not level, the amount of oil will be incorrect, either too little or too much. The black arrow is showing the filling tube.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/ATF%20Replacement/N37-0502.png

Phil

Grada89
02-24-2011, 05:46 PM
I may contact you when i reach 100k. :p

Grada89
02-24-2011, 05:50 PM
From what I've read the tip fluid never needs changing, I know it's not even on the maintenance schedule I have. I could be wrong though.

my service manual says 35k and 70k. Replace ATF

fly300kts
02-24-2011, 06:14 PM
my service manual says 35k and 70k. Replace ATF

Tiptronic is lifetime....yeah right!

Phil

Grada89
02-24-2011, 06:19 PM
Tiptronic is lifetime....yeah right!

Phil

lol i will take pictures.

Its also on here. http://www.bentleypublishers.com/images//tech/audi/audi.2006.maintenance.sched.pdf

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Maintenance+Schedule+-+2007+-+A4,+A4+Avant,+A4+Cabriolet,+S4,+S4+Avant,+S4+Cabr iolet,+RS4

easier to see on the link above ^^^

fly300kts
02-24-2011, 06:37 PM
Again, this is for CVT, DSG or Manual and NOT Tiptronic !

phil

Inked
02-24-2011, 07:12 PM
Again, this is for CVT, DSG or Manual and NOT Tiptronic !

phil

LOL at Phils frustration..now someone is going to see the not tiptronic part and ask what transmission you have LOL hahaha

Grada89
02-25-2011, 12:12 AM
Again, this is for CVT, DSG or Manual and NOT Tiptronic !

phil

Makes more sense now....but totally agree there's no way ATF is lifetime no matter what transmission it is.

swsherif
03-10-2011, 04:53 AM
Just a question here Phil, why you did not use the 8mm drain plug to drain the transmission fluid before removing the oil pan. ?

fly300kts
03-10-2011, 04:57 AM
I just forgot to add the step but yes I did that first
Just made the correction, Sorry

Phil

swsherif
03-10-2011, 05:35 AM
Not a problem man, I should have expecting that myself but I was just clearing everything out before I do it myself, my car has 165,000 KM on it now without Trans, oil change.
Another question, how important changing the filter, because that is why the oil pan has to be removed. Do you think it is not enough going the easy way, drain from the drain plug then pump the new oil from the refill plug without the filter? At least it would be better than leaving the fluid for life time
How difficult inserting the pumping hose in the right direction?
Thanks Phile

fly300kts
03-10-2011, 05:47 AM
Not a problem man, I should have expecting that myself but I was just clearing everything out before I do it myself, my car has 165,000 KM on it now without Trans, oil change.
Another question, how important changing the filter, because that is why the oil pan has to be removed. Do you think it is not enough going the easy way, drain from the drain plug then pump the new oil from the refill plug without the filter? At least it would be better than leaving the fluid for life time
How difficult inserting the pumping hose in the right direction?
Thanks Phile

The tricky part might be the filling process. The pan filter is a walk in the park and without question, I would replace the filter. If you check closely the pictures, you will see the pick up entry at the end of the filter: Check the color difference between the old one and the new one. Plus, the deposit on the magnets is microscopic and I am sure that this deposit has clogged the filter so to answer, I would not do this process without replacing the filter
Inserting the hose is really easy once you figured out the right position during the initial filling

Phil

swsherif
03-10-2011, 06:01 AM
Thanks for clearing that out for me. I just called the dealer they give me prices as follow
Oil is $64/ littler and they said I will need almost 9 litters to fill it up (can you verify that pls) total is $576
Gasket is $60.28
Filter is $108.27
labore 2.5 hours
Total parts is 744.55 I remember you just said around $350 total for parts. I am in Ontario Canada though.

swsherif
03-10-2011, 06:17 AM
I even called the USA dealer they even gave me higher prices, and said exactly the same it takes 9 litter for full fill, am I missing something here, because I saw you purchased the parts or $350 , thanks

JPT
03-10-2011, 08:40 AM
Don't know Audi autos well enough yet... But if it is like other auto's, the torque converter will have fluid in there, so there usually are 2 numbers reported, full and refill, because when you drain the oil, you aren't removing the fluid from the converter.

swsherif
03-10-2011, 09:58 AM
That is make sense, but since we are doing all this work we might as well find out the best way to flush the whole system including the converter and refill it with brand new fluid , is there any way of doing that?

JPT
03-10-2011, 10:05 AM
That is make sense, but since we are doing all this work we might as well find out the best way to flush the whole system including the converter and refill it with brand new fluid , is there any way of doing that?

A transmission flush... not drain and refill... unless you want to pull the transmission you have no way of removing the fluid out of the torque converter. This is from my knowledge of transmissions in general... not Audi trans. To do a flush, you need machines that are typically bought by shops.

fly300kts
03-10-2011, 10:31 AM
I even called the USA dealer they even gave me higher prices, and said exactly the same it takes 9 litter for full fill, am I missing something here, because I saw you purchased the parts or $350 , thanks

JPT is right: You will not be flushing the entire circuit and I don't encourage you to do so
Price seems right but I had a better deal on the oil. I paid $45 per liter and I used 5.5 liter

Phil

swsherif
03-10-2011, 10:37 AM
great , thanks guys

illegitimus
04-07-2011, 06:40 PM
I have been off this forum for a while, so I get in and find another great DIY! Thanks, Phil. I may note and actually stress to ONLY use Audi ATF for TIP cars. Go to the dealer, provide the VIN of your car so they get you the correct fluid. Last time I talked to the parts' guy at a local dealership and since I have an early 2006 build s-line he wasn't sure what fluid to provide unless I gave him the serial number from the transmission! on early 2006 there're three different types of transmission units used and each used a different type of ATF. they differ by color: yellow, blue and green. obviously, the tint...

wootwoot
04-11-2011, 11:31 PM
I have been off this forum for a while, so I get in and find another great DIY! Thanks, Phil. I may note and actually stress to ONLY use Audi ATF for TIP cars.

What makes the Audi ATF fluid so special? This seems awfully pricey for ATF fluid. I know everyone is going to say that German cars are more expensive upkeep but fully synthetic ATF fluid for any other automobile is nowhere near these prices.

rs6
05-01-2011, 01:09 AM
Here's a big money saving tip: You can get the OEM fluid from ZF at $32/Liter list price. Some discounters have it for less. It's called ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6. The bottle is even identical, except without the Audi label.

EDIT: I did some researching and it does appear that ZF is not clear about which fluid to use. Depending on which ZF documentation you read, your car may need LG6, LG6+, or LG8 (and each has a different tint). The stuff used in this writeup is the same as LG8, which can be had at thctsc.com for $35/liter.

Safest thing to do is get the model and serial number from the transmission housing, give the info to your Audi parts guy and buy OE fluid.

mr shickadance
05-16-2011, 07:06 AM
hey phil,

just wondering bc when i did my gear oil change (i know i have a 6 speed and this is for tips) but im thinking that your fill plug in picture 5 may not be the right 'phil' plug.....seehwatididtherE?

kidding aside there is a 10mm allan bolt to the side that you can see very easily in the same picture (#5), just above where you identified the fill plug i think thats the correct fill plug

my reasoning for it is bc on the 6speed gear box you use the same exact bolt as the fill plug

any thoughts on it?

rs6
05-16-2011, 10:15 AM
You're correct, that is also a fill plug. You can use that (easier) or the one Phil used.

B72011
04-25-2012, 12:22 PM
Question---when you originally drained the fluid--did 5 1/4 liters come out?

siryova
04-25-2012, 09:08 PM
This DIY is only for Tiptronic or CVT too.

Looking information for ATF replacement on CVT and no look.

[confused]

null
09-05-2012, 10:21 AM
Phil - I found another excellent post from you! I trust your posts completely and hope you can answer few of my questions about confusion with VAG part #s

I have the same auto 6 speed tranny and ETKA is showing G-052-145-S2 as the oil to use. I called the dealer and they confirmed that my code is HHL and I need to use G060162A2 - the same one you used. I started to research this HHL tranny and found out that it's a ZF6HP19A transmission made by ZF.

ZF website say the following for ZF6HP19A
all 6HP19
6HP19A(2) (trans parts list dependent)
ZF LifeGuard6 (ZF No. S671 090 255)
=> Audi Oil No. G 055005 A1 / A2 / A6

Split oil supply front / rear axle differential:
- Filling front axle differential with transmission oil Castrol SAF-AG4
=> Audi / VW Oil No. N 052145000, Porsche Oil No. 999.917.545.00)
- Filling rear axle differential with transmission oil Castrol SAF-AG4 Q (SAF-AG4 + 4% FM Additive)
=> Audi / VW Oil No. G 055145 A2)
Common oil supply front /rear axle differential:
- Filling with transmission oil Castrol SAF-AG4 Q (SAF-AG4 + 4% FM Additive) => Audi / VW Oil No. G 055145 A2

So the G 055145 A2 is a bit cheaper and it's the ZF6 kind, where there are posts saying to use zf8 is it the G060162A2 ?

Furthermore.. I read this post about about same part# tranny ZF6HP19A that was also used in Phaeton:

So the questions are:

is the G060162A2 is for sure the right fluid to use?
is it worth the risk to buy cheaper but generic ZF fluid?
is it needed to change fluid 2 times to get rid of old fluid in tranny(read post below)?
is any software flash needed to use newer G060162A2 fluid?

Thanks in advance! !




-------------------------- read post that i found ----------------------------------

This is only from my experience and according to my understanding, so please use your own judgment as well.

Phaetonís transmission ZF 6HP-19A, is very sensitive to ATF. the part number in ETKA got updated at one point, it is now showing as G060162A2, but the original factory filled ATF is not G060162A2, and VW didnít bother to notify the dealer that this change took place. And once you changed the ATF, Since the usual way for dealer to change ATF is to drop the pan, drain the fluid, and replace the filter can only get rid of about 40% of the fluid, once different types of ATF got mixed, thatís not what you want. For this transmission, the clutch will burn due to mismatch ATF type, and will require a software update to the TCM.

That is what happened to me, but at that time neither the dealer nor I know this, until I found out through the hard way: my transmission starts to shift strangely, then I found the info on this forum and provided it to the dealer and push them to check with VW. I even scanned my car with Vag-Com and provided them the ECM and TCM software version number, along with the email I got from ZF which confirmed an software update is needed once ATF got changed.

So the solution the dealer got from VW is this: Change the ATF one more time after driven certain Kms, drain the old fluid, refill with G060162A2 again and then update the TCM, according to VW, this should correct the problem, It will drain about 80% of the old fluid, and the TCM software version is brought from 1003 to 1905 in order to adjust to the new type of ATF.

So, in conclusion, below is the procedure done on my car:
-----------------------------------
Part 1 of Transmission Service Units:

Perform Automatic Transmission Service:
Service includes filter, fluid and new pan gasket,
Change automatic transmission fluid and filter.
Replace rear differential fluid.

QTY Part Number Description
1 01V-321-379 Washer
1 09L-321-371 Gasket
1 09L-325-429 Strainer
1 G-052-145-S2 Axle Oil
1 G-052-145-A1 Axle Oil
6 G-060-162-A2 ATF Oil
-----------------------------------
Part 2 of Transmission Service as per VW QTM

(Only after car been driven by customer for 500 miles since the first service):

Change fluid for second time (No need to replace the filter or pan gasket) and top up.
Perform TCM software update as per QTM.
QTY Part Number Description
6 G-060-162-A2 ATF Oil
VW Tele-update TCM Module

-------------------------------------- end of post i found about phaeton ------------------------------------------------------------------------

null
09-05-2012, 10:39 AM
This is another post I found on audi-forums.com
------------------------------------------------------------
1. Check the oil level

2. Read save assess the MVB 73-77 (only possible from MY 2006)

3. Reset the adaptation values through a software update or by deleting them (possible from MY 2006).

4. Adaptation of the gearbox control unit: (adaptation journey)

Detailed information:

3. Deleting adaptation values: (from MY 2006)

The values must be deleted after repairs to clutch, complaints about the shift comfort and major engine repairs.

Save MVB 73-77 before the deletion. If the adaptation journey is not successful, the old MVB can point towards the cause.


a) 10-adjustment -> channel 1 -> memory -> accept -> confirm.

The adaptation counter in MVB 73-77 (2nd digit) should now be on '0


4. Adaptation drive:

Note: For vehicles from MY 06 the deletion and the adaptation drive can be performed with the guided fault finding.

With vehicles up to MY 05 proceed as follows


ATF change:

Flush out the system to remove any old ATF (e.g. from the converter).

1. Drain the ATF and fill in new ATF (blue, G 055 162 A...). Check and correct the ATF level


Raise the vehicle about 10 to 20 cm.

All four wheels do not touch the ground any more.



Never run the engine without ATF and do not tow the vehicle.

Important: Do not drive faster than 50 km/h.

2. Observe the display of the driving modes in the combination instrument. Start the engine and release the handbrake.

3. Put the gear lever to position "D" while pressing the brake pedal. Carefully press the accelerator.

4. Carefully accelerate in "D" to maximum 50km/h and hold this speed for several seconds.

5. Carefully press the brake pedal and stop the vehicle.

6. Put the gear lever in position "R". Accelerate to 20 km/h and hold this speed for several seconds.

7. Carefully press the brake pedal and stop the vehicle.

8. Put the gear lever in position "D" and repeat steps 3 to 7 five times.

9. When the vehicle is stationary, put the gear lever in position "P" and switch off the engine.

10. Drain the ATF and fill in new ATF (blue, G 055 162 A...). Check and correct the ATF level

Adaptation drive:

Note: For vehicles from MY 06 the deletion and the adaptation drive can be performed with the guided fault finding.

With older vehicles proceed as follows:

1. Warm up the gearbox with low engine performance till the ATF temperature reaches 60įC (ATF temperature must be below 100įC).

2. At stationary vehicle - idle speed, brakes applied, switch from N to D and hold for about 3 seconds. Repeat five times.

Perform the same procedure from N to R.

3. Shift from 1st to 2nd while driving at low load and shift down from 2nd to 1st. Repeat 5 times.

4. Drive at low load (engine torque between 80 Nm and 100 Nm, see 02 automatic gearbox, MVB 09, 1st display value) till the transmission has shifted to 6th gear (vehicle speed about 80 - 100 km/h) and stay in this condition for about 30 - 60 seconds. Let the vehicle roll to standstill (with gentle brake application at the end). Repeat four times (the aim is to shift up and down at very little load).

null
09-05-2012, 11:46 AM
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Search/New_Items/Tools/ES2581619/

ECS is selling this KIT from what seems like ZF manufacturer? Same one as the maker of the tranny itself?

null
09-05-2012, 12:29 PM
Here's a big money saving tip: You can get the OEM fluid from ZF at $32/Liter list price. Some discounters have it for less. It's called ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6. The bottle is even identical, except without the Audi label.

EDIT: I did some researching and it does appear that ZF is not clear about which fluid to use. Depending on which ZF documentation you read, your car may need LG6, LG6+, or LG8 (and each has a different tint). The stuff used in this writeup is the same as LG8, which can be had at thctsc.com for $35/liter.

Safest thing to do is get the model and serial number from the transmission housing, give the info to your Audi parts guy and buy OE fluid.

Great tip! Offcourse Audi is only making the labels for the stuff. Cut the middle man and get lower cost. I called the dealer and they said my tran code is HHL and told me to use the fluid Phil used. I see that ECS now carries the ZF8 fluid and the KIT gasket + filter also made by ZF. So seems like a better deal on the same parts.

Price from dealer:

Sub Total: $361.16
Total: $361.16

+ shipping + taxes
----------------------------------------
Price from ECS

Sub Total: $309.77
Shipping: $18.91
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $328.68

So is it a no brainer to buy from ECS ?

fly300kts
09-09-2012, 05:01 AM
I respect your reseach but here is my phylosophy:
Tranny fluid replacement is not required every day so why even take the risk of replacing a fluid by a non OEM product that might mess your expensive tranny?
No brainer for me, I went OEM

Phil

null
09-10-2012, 06:44 PM
One more question: since more fluid leaks out when engine is hot, is it better to drain when engine is piping hot, then wait till it cools off? and fill more? Since I will be doing it in the garage i can leave car over night for it to cool down?

wootwoot
09-10-2012, 06:58 PM
I respect your reseach but here is my phylosophy:
Tranny fluid replacement is not required every day so why even take the risk of replacing a fluid by a non OEM product that might mess your expensive tranny?
No brainer for me, I went OEM

Phil

What makes OEM Audi fluid so special? I have flushed ATF fluid on numerous other cars with aftermarket fluid without issue. I wouldn't call it a no brainer when audi taxes you so badly on ATF fluid.

B72011
09-11-2012, 11:02 AM
Get the part # for the fluid from your dealer (they'll ask for your VIN) then go to www.ctsc.com and look it up for the 6HP19A2 transmission. The transmission is a ZF built unit and the fluid that Audi uses is from ZF (with a new label applied) and is avail from CTSC. They sell it by the bottle or in a pack of 12 at close to $20/liter!--which saves like $25 a liter vs the dealer when bought in bulk. Let me know if youd like to buy 6 bottles from me--I'll order 12 and then ship the 6 to you. We can split the cost of shipping.
Total would be $122 plus taxes and shipping costs (we'll split the costs from CTSC to me) and you pay what it costs to go from me to you.
It would probably be about $160 total.......thats a savings of about $150 or more vs dealer sourcing.

null
09-11-2012, 11:55 AM
I need g060162a2 fluid my code is hhl.$160 sounds good.

null
09-13-2012, 07:05 PM
alright I went and ordered from ecs, ended up spending$500 there but its already all with shipping and no tax. not going to split 12pak anymore

B72011
09-24-2012, 11:02 PM
$300+when you could have paid $160 for the same stuff? Hhahha man............some people. Oh well, you can lead a horse...............aw forget it.

null
09-30-2012, 01:28 PM
So everything arrived from ecs.

i'm happy to report that the stuff ecs sells is EXACT same as OEM. The fluid bottles are Identical minus the fancy OOOO sticker. Same goes for the filter - Made in Germany. ECS carries the kit: Filter + gasket and its only $99. Also - i found a coupon for the fluid pump that HarborFreight.com sells, making it just $4 - check retailmenot for it.

@B7xxxx sorry dude, its a great deal you're offering, but i was already buying stuff from ecs and i didn't hear from ya - so i pulled the trigger on ecs.

Funny but my cars tranny stopped twitching once I got all the stuff... i have 72K on the car and I recently had APR stage I tune. Phil or anybody else, whats your take? Should I just change the fluid or milk the current fluid for more months.. it doesn't seem to twitch as it used to anymore.. ?

DownUnderSLine
11-22-2012, 07:50 AM
I've been doing my homework on this topic as I need to do the job....

My B7 has a build date of FEB 2005 and has the HHL (6HP-19A) transmission.

From what I've researched to date, the trans in early B7s came out with the Yellow(Gold) fluid (G 055005 A1 / A2 / A6) but the recommendation today is that the Green fluid (G060162A2 / ZF8), however, this requires a TCM software update....

Has anyone done this fluid flush with the green fluid and NOT done the software update ? Any negatives / issue encountered ?

TIA.

null
11-22-2012, 07:54 PM
Unless you know how and have the tools to update the software, DO NOT use any other tran fluid from what dealer advices. I used yellow fluid, the generic ZF fluid is Exactly the same as what Audi sells with a hefty markup. ECS kit was perfect - its only $99 filter + gasket. After the operation the shifting is much smoother - do it!

DownUnderSLine
11-22-2012, 08:58 PM
Unless you know how and have the tools to update the software, DO NOT use any other tran fluid from what dealer advices. I used yellow fluid, the generic ZF fluid is Exactly the same as what Audi sells with a hefty markup. ECS kit was perfect - its only $99 filter + gasket. After the operation the shifting is much smoother - do it!

Thanks for the clarification. I will do exactly that.... (Gold ZF fluid, no software update...)

So what is the consensis on the amount needed ? 5 to 6 ltrs as detailed in this DIY ?? (ECS kits include 8 litres - guessing this is the total qty if doing a complete trans rebuild... or just an up-sell [;)] )

null
11-23-2012, 01:46 PM
get six. i was only able to pour int a little over 5.5 liters, and lots of spillage when overflows. 6 is plenty

Audibot
05-08-2013, 12:30 PM
Sorry to resurrect this thread again...

When I purchased the fluid from the dealer and mentioned I was going to do it, as soon as they heard my miles, they told me not to do it. Reason being that if I did it, they guaranteed that the tranny would start slipping. Something about the way the clutch packs and fluids "bond" together (for a lack of a better term). Putting in new fluid without changing them would result in the clutch packs disintegrating.

Anyone know anything about that?

Also, the gasket I received is metal and does not look anything like the one Phil or ECS shows. Anyone else know anything about that as well?

nsogiba
12-02-2013, 06:51 AM
I wanted to bump this thread as my fiancee's car is showing classic symptoms of the torque convertor acting up (revs will surge and pulse during cold cruise). I'd like to change the fluid to try to remedy it. It's a 2007 A4 2.0T, 6speed auto tiptronic, quattro.

The trans code on the build sticker is marked "HUP HYH". ECS Tuning sells a nice combo kit of filter and gasket for a bit over $100, but it says it's only for the following:

[b[For Vehicles With Transmission Code HLL, HLK, HWD, HWE, JER Only[/b]

Which is the correct part number for her car? Can I use that combo on ECS?

Which fluid is also correct?

doughboy17
12-02-2013, 09:00 AM
nsogiba, please post your results regarding the torque convertor acting up after the fluid change. I plan to have a fluid change done later this month. Mine is at 68K.

nsogiba
12-02-2013, 10:04 AM
We will see. A friend who was a VW/Audi Tech for many years will be doing it for me, and has recommended that we only do a fluid drain and fill due to mileage.

Audibot
12-02-2013, 12:47 PM
I wanted to bump this thread as my fiancee's car is showing classic symptoms of the torque convertor acting up (revs will surge and pulse during cold cruise). I'd like to change the fluid to try to remedy it. It's a 2007 A4 2.0T, 6speed auto tiptronic, quattro.

The trans code on the build sticker is marked "HUP HYH". ECS Tuning sells a nice combo kit of filter and gasket for a bit over $100, but it says it's only for the following:

[b[For Vehicles With Transmission Code HLL, HLK, HWD, HWE, JER Only[/b]

Which is the correct part number for her car? Can I use that combo on ECS?

Which fluid is also correct?



I also have a 2007 2.0T and I got mine at a decent price through EuropaParts. 09L321371A is the part number I used. Cheaper individually on EuropaParts (not sure how it is if you price all the parts individually as there is no quattro kit), and you'll get it quicker too since they're right in NJ.