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View Full Version : DIY: Lower Control Arm Replacement



fly300kts
12-22-2010, 09:51 AM
I need to thank the Crew at 034 Motorsport since they were able to split a kit and sell me only the lower control arms (I have the Sterns on top).
These have stiffer bushing and going to install them in few days. I'll post a shot DIY

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/URO-0064.jpg

The DIY

The process is pretty straight forward
1 hour per side

Tools

2 x 18mm wrenches
10mm wrench
Hydraulic floor jack
Ball joint separator

FRONT ARM

1/ Disconnect auto-leveling clamp if installed
2/ Lift the forward arm with the floor jack few inches to release the sway link pressure. Remove the upper bolt of the linkage
3/ Remove the shock bottom bolt
4/ With the ball joint separator, free the arm from the hub.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Lower%20Arms/DSC03419Large.jpg

DONíT EVEN THINK STARTING THIS JOB WITHOUT THE SEPARATOR!!!

Got mine from Harbor Freight ($10) but I had to enlarge the fork because the cutout was too small for the pivot cone widht. When it releases, it sounds like a shot gun!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Lower%20Arms/DSC03424Large.jpg

5/ Using the 18mm wrenches, remove the inner bolt. Replace the arm

REAR ARM

1/ with the ball joint separator, free the arm from the hub.
2/ Using the 18mm wrenches, remove the inner bolt

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Lower%20Arms/DSC03421Large.jpg

You will not be able to slide out completely the inner bolt with removing the 10mm plastic nut holding the cover. Remove the nut and bent down enough the plastic cover to make room and slide out the bolt.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Lower%20Arms/DSC03420Large.jpg

Clean and you are done

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Lower%20Arms/DSC03422Large.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Lower%20Arms/DSC03423Large.jpg

Let me know if any question

Phil

Leo14
12-22-2010, 10:06 AM
Nice! Can't wait for the DIY

beantown
12-22-2010, 10:34 AM
Nice addition Phil...subscribed.

euroazfck
12-22-2010, 10:56 AM
I'll subScribe!

fly300kts
12-23-2010, 11:56 AM
DIY Posted

Phil

elwigglero
12-23-2010, 12:08 PM
You had adjustable uppers before right? Did you feel a big difference when upgrading the lower arms w/ stiffer bushings?

fly300kts
12-23-2010, 02:14 PM
You had adjustable uppers before right? Did you feel a big difference when upgrading the lower arms w/ stiffer bushings?

Definitively and even if still good at 95000 miles, the larger bushings were totally distorded

Phil

Philthy
02-24-2012, 03:29 PM
Replacing all my arms tomorrow. Anyone happen to have the torque specs and do these need to be loaded like the uppers?

mr larry
09-27-2012, 01:42 PM
Replacing all my arms tomorrow. Anyone happen to have the torque specs and do these need to be loaded like the uppers?

Bump for loading question x2

bombermon
09-01-2013, 07:27 PM
Mine seized and I had to take off the spindle and get the arms pressed out

Kodymfk
04-04-2014, 06:44 PM
Going to do this tomorrow, how much surface did you have to remove from the tool to make it work?
Definitively and even if still good at 95000 miles, the larger bushings were totally distorded

Phil

rs6
04-26-2014, 09:09 PM
Going to do this tomorrow, how much surface did you have to remove from the tool to make it work?

Not much, maybe only 1 mm on the insides of the "fork."

squeegy200
06-21-2014, 10:15 AM
I'll be doing this very soon as well.
Just ordered the entire upper and lower control arm kit with tie rod ends this week. Also ordered the ball joint separator tool from harbor freight. Thank you for the detailed information and illustrations. They will be very useful when I tackle this job

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

needmovies
07-14-2014, 07:24 AM
I just did mine yesterday and I just want to say thanks to the OP for this guide. I also want to add some tips in case anyone's interested:

- removing the sway bar from the mounting bracket helped a lot in getting the front arm in and out
- I removed front arm first, ball joint side then the inner side. I then removed the rear arm, also ball joint then inner side
- When installing, it was way easier to do the front arm first while the rear arm was still detached. it was a PITA to align the inner bolts for the front arm, it made it way easier when I had the rear arm off since I can move the knuckle/hub around without the rear arm countering the movement
- when installing, I did front ball joint, front inner bolts, rear inner bolts, rear ball joint
- as per ELSA, they have to be torque at curb weight (loaded suspension)

squeegy200
07-19-2014, 08:35 PM
This thread was extremely helpful. Much appreciation and thanks! You guys must be super fast, it took me about five hours. I did also replace a drive shaft while replacing the lower control arms. But I must work significantly slower than most.

I did use the harbor freight ball joint separator. It is a must for this task. And it does sound like a shotgun when the ball joints let loose! Thanks again! Great write up!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

fly300kts
08-02-2014, 07:40 AM
This thread was extremely helpful. Much appreciation and thanks! You guys must be super fast, it took me about five hours. I did also replace a drive shaft while replacing the lower control arms. But I must work significantly slower than most.

I did use the harbor freight ball joint separator. It is a must for this task. And it does sound like a shotgun when the ball joints let loose! Thanks again! Great write up!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Your welcome

Phil