Slo.Mo.Shun.
06-03-2007, 09:00 PM
First of all Congratulations, no more broken diaphragms. Now that you own a Forge diverter valve you must install it.
Note: You need a 10mm ID hose if you don’t have a tap to read boost already in you car. If you already have a boost gauge it will buzz if you don’t add an anti buzz fitting. (Don’t be fooled by the one Forge provides you ). You need about 6-7 feet of ¼ ID or 6.4mm vacuum hose for a clean install.
First make sure you have received a package that includes all of the following.
Later models might include a 10mm ID hose to tap in to a vacuum source.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080078copy.jpg
Tools
These are the bare essentials
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080082.jpg
Flat head, 5 & 3 mm hex, tiny ratchet with torx bits or hex. I think I don’t have to mention you should put your car on some good sturdy jack stands. (Pliers and cutting tool may be required)
Read your instructions so you can familiarize yourself with the valve.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080110.jpg
Now cut two pieces of vacuum line. About 6” & 10” size may vary. ( you can use a knife or any other cutting tool.)
Bolt the electronics to the smaller plate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080132.jpg
Align the valve with the electronics like in the picture, mock it up to check for clearances ( Try to install the vacuum lines so that the don’t touch anything that could melt them.)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080135.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080136.jpg
You may bend the plate a bit to get better clearances or mount the electronics backwards like I did. Make sure the nipples on the valve are pointing in the same direction as the picture.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080137.jpg
Alternative mounting
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080123.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080124.jpg
In order to connect the electronics to the cars ecu (To the wires that are connected to the OEM valve) you must cut a zip tie that prevents it from extending fully
Now that you have mounted and routed the first two vacuum lines you need to tap in to your manifold to get a vacuum source. The vacuum source that you need is located on the upper part of the crankcase close to the fire wall
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080138.jpg
Closer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080139.jpg
Closer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080140copy.jpg
See that little yellow spot, that’s not it look diagonally up for a dome like rubbery thing.
It comes with a metal clam that can be removed with some pliers
After you have removed the little cap install the splitter provided by forge.
Make sure you use the nozzle with the bigger hole.
If you own a boost gauge try to keep you original tap so your gauge does not buzz.
After you have taped in to a vacuum source you need to run the last vacuum hose to the DV. You will need about 6 feet of vacuum hose, additional of what forge provides to you.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080141.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080142.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080128copy.jpg
Route the hose like so ( picture above), then route it inside the carbonio, or to the side of the OEM intake and drop the like where you see the side mount, now just plug the hose on the remainder nozzle and you are done.
For the love of good use zip-ties
If you have any additional questions don't ask.
I kid, I kid [:D] [:D] [:D]
Please do ask questions when in doubt [az]
Note: You need a 10mm ID hose if you don’t have a tap to read boost already in you car. If you already have a boost gauge it will buzz if you don’t add an anti buzz fitting. (Don’t be fooled by the one Forge provides you ). You need about 6-7 feet of ¼ ID or 6.4mm vacuum hose for a clean install.
First make sure you have received a package that includes all of the following.
Later models might include a 10mm ID hose to tap in to a vacuum source.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080078copy.jpg
Tools
These are the bare essentials
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080082.jpg
Flat head, 5 & 3 mm hex, tiny ratchet with torx bits or hex. I think I don’t have to mention you should put your car on some good sturdy jack stands. (Pliers and cutting tool may be required)
Read your instructions so you can familiarize yourself with the valve.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080110.jpg
Now cut two pieces of vacuum line. About 6” & 10” size may vary. ( you can use a knife or any other cutting tool.)
Bolt the electronics to the smaller plate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080132.jpg
Align the valve with the electronics like in the picture, mock it up to check for clearances ( Try to install the vacuum lines so that the don’t touch anything that could melt them.)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080135.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080136.jpg
You may bend the plate a bit to get better clearances or mount the electronics backwards like I did. Make sure the nipples on the valve are pointing in the same direction as the picture.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080137.jpg
Alternative mounting
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080123.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080124.jpg
In order to connect the electronics to the cars ecu (To the wires that are connected to the OEM valve) you must cut a zip tie that prevents it from extending fully
Now that you have mounted and routed the first two vacuum lines you need to tap in to your manifold to get a vacuum source. The vacuum source that you need is located on the upper part of the crankcase close to the fire wall
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080138.jpg
Closer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080139.jpg
Closer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080140copy.jpg
See that little yellow spot, that’s not it look diagonally up for a dome like rubbery thing.
It comes with a metal clam that can be removed with some pliers
After you have removed the little cap install the splitter provided by forge.
Make sure you use the nozzle with the bigger hole.
If you own a boost gauge try to keep you original tap so your gauge does not buzz.
After you have taped in to a vacuum source you need to run the last vacuum hose to the DV. You will need about 6 feet of vacuum hose, additional of what forge provides to you.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080141.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080142.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/Victor_Carruyo/P1080128copy.jpg
Route the hose like so ( picture above), then route it inside the carbonio, or to the side of the OEM intake and drop the like where you see the side mount, now just plug the hose on the remainder nozzle and you are done.
For the love of good use zip-ties
If you have any additional questions don't ask.
I kid, I kid [:D] [:D] [:D]
Please do ask questions when in doubt [az]