View Full Version : DIY: A4 B7 - Inner CV Boot Replacement

03-13-2010, 07:13 PM
For information only, I will not endorse any responsibility.


I finally found time to tackle this issue: Inner Boot Shaft replacement.
The outer side is pretty straightforward and I will talk about it a bit later but I could not find anything about the inner boot, and itís the trickier one. So here we go:

Time: 2 Hrs
Difficulty: 4

Triple Square 10mm
Allen socket 17mm

So here is your problem

Remove the rim center cap and parking brake ON. This will allow you to remove the big Allen screw.

Then, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Remove the cross bolt securing the upper arms as well as the direction control arm.

You can use a small chisel to expand the arm

Slide the assembly on the side and you will be able to disengage the axle outer side.

Then, using the 10mm triple square, remove the 6 screws engine side and slide out the axle.
After securing the axle, using a razor blade (or other) cut the remaining on the boot as well as the old clamps. Clean any excess of grease. Not like this outer CV Joint where at this stage, you will be able to remove outside clip and slide out the tripod, for the inner joint, you donít have access to the outer clip. With a hammer, hit the flange where the 6 screws were, until she slides off the tripod and you should end up with something like this:

Now you have access to the outer clip. Remove it and slide out the tripod

After a good cleaning of the different components, slide the part in this order:

Small Clamp
New Boot
Inner clip

Slide the tripod and come in contact to the inner clip. Then install the outer clip

Slide the boot in his final position and tight the inner clamp.

Empty the entire tube of grease inside the boot, install the outer clamp and secure.

Reinstall the axle on the car.

Let me know if any question


03-13-2010, 07:22 PM
As always, best DIY! Saved and subscribed. Thanks!

03-13-2010, 11:43 PM
haha freaking awesome DIY. If it was me I would just replace entire axle. But I am kind of lazy:)

03-14-2010, 01:01 AM
i love my CPO :)

03-14-2010, 08:47 AM
Very nicely done Phil. A must keep for the DYI archives.

03-14-2010, 08:59 AM
Excellent and really helpful...Thumbs up Phil, as always

03-14-2010, 01:12 PM
Nice write-up as always :)

03-14-2010, 03:47 PM
i love my CPO :)

As long as you keep it stock (which by your sig, looks like you are). But CPO doesn't matter two-bits once you do ANYTHING to the suspension, in regards to your CV Axel's.

03-15-2010, 01:49 AM
RANDY... Add it to the list!

03-15-2010, 10:45 AM
Great write up.

Do you use new bolts on the CV and a new Allen on the hub end? What size is that allen?

Might also be a great time to change the front bearing, since the shaft is out.

03-15-2010, 11:15 AM
Same bolts were used
As noted in the beginning of the DIY = Allen 17 mm
In reference to the bearings, my dad always told me: if ain't broken, don't touch it [;)]


04-11-2010, 06:32 PM
It is also helpful to have some dowel pins and a mallet for removing the bearing set from the spline shaft. Mine was on there pretty good. When getting the arms to fit back on, some c-clamps were helpful as well. And I borrowed the crimping tool from Pep Boys. Thanks for the DIY. Helped a lot today!

04-11-2010, 07:03 PM
For the lazy, you can just get reman'd axles from Napa for (typically) less than $80 w/ lifetime warranty. They are original Audi axles. Beats spending the time and all that nasty grease.

Nail Nutter
04-11-2010, 07:19 PM
Hey Phil,

Axel bolts are commonly stretch bolts. You might want to take a look at those bolts from time to time to make sure they aren't backing off. I replaced an axel on my old VW and wasn't able to buy new axel bolts at the same time. I appropriately torqued the bolts when I reinstalled them, but was surprised to find several had worked themselves loose when I checked on them a year later.

04-11-2010, 07:28 PM
Not mentioned in the DIY but I replaced them


Nail Nutter
04-11-2010, 10:04 PM
Glad to hear it. Great DIY!

06-18-2010, 09:09 PM
Hey Fly where can i pick up those specific clamps and clampers at? Also will those work for the smaller ones, : for power steering lines.

12-07-2010, 06:26 AM
just did this to my b6 without removing the axel from the car (pasengers side inner boot)

12-07-2010, 07:33 AM
Hey Fly where can i pick up those specific clamps and clampers at? Also will those work for the smaller ones, : for power steering lines.

Yes they should work and the clamps came with the repair kit


01-28-2012, 05:19 PM
Anyone have problems removing the 6 triple square bolts? Got 3 out but the other 3 wont budge with a 1/2 inch impact gun. I've already snapped one triple square socket.

01-30-2012, 06:18 PM
Get a good bit Like Snap-on and try with an impact wrench


01-30-2012, 09:37 PM
Get a good bit Like Snap-on and try with an impact wrench

It was a Matco bit, lifetime replacements are awesome btw. Ended up heating it with a torch for 30 sec, then it came right out.

01-30-2012, 09:54 PM
Thanks for this nice DIY Phil

07-29-2012, 04:33 PM
Thanks for the helpful info, I figured I'd throw my two cents in on my experience with removing the driveshaft. It could save a bit of work plus the need for a realignment.

I found I didn't have to unhook any of the upper links (photos/comments in the DIY above as upper arms, direction control arm) from the wheel bearing housing. If it turned the wheel hard over I found I could wiggle the driveshaft out without much trouble at all. I was doing the right front, so I turned the wheel all the way to the right. Crawled under the car. Used the play in the inner CV joint to "shrink" the arm. And was then able to pull it out going back and down (i.e. towards the left rear of the car.)

The Audi internal ELSA docs say to remove the two upper arms but not to remove either of the bolts on the direction control arm (for alignment reasons) IF there is not enough clearance to remove the driveshaft; so maybe that trick won't work for everyone.

Here's the text of the process, bolts 1 and 2 are for the two uppers arms, 3 and 4 are for the direction control arm:

Removing drive shaft
– Remove wheel trim; on light-alloy wheels, pull off trim cap (use puller in vehicle tool kit).
– Slacken off bolt for outer joint of drive shaft by max. 90į (vehicle must be standing on its wheels to avoid accident risk).
– Remove wheel.
– Screw in and hand-tighten all 5 wheel bolts again.
– Remove hexagon bolt for outer joint of drive shaft.
– Unbolt drive shaft from flange shaft on gearbox.
Perform the following step if there is not enough clearance to take out the drive shaft.

– Remove nut -1-, take out hexagon bolt and pull out both upper links -2- upwards.
Do not attempt to enlarge slots in wheel bearing housing using a chisel or similar.
NoteDo not loosen bolts -3- and -4- as this would change the front axle alignment.
– Swing wheel bearing housing out to the side.
– Take out drive shaft.

Installing drive shaft
– Insert drive shaft in wheel bearing housing.
– Fit two upper links, install new bolt and tighten new nut → Item. Press links as far as possible towards wheel bearing housing when tightening.
– Bolt drive shaft to flange shaft on gearbox → Item.
– Secure outer joint of drive shaft.
NoteThe wheels must not be in contact with the ground when initially tightening the bolt securing the outer drive shaft joint; otherwise the wheel bearing can be damaged.
A second mechanic is required for the next operation.
– 1st mechanic gets into vehicle and presses brake pedal.
– 2nd mechanic tightens hexagon bolt for drive shaft to initial torque.
Hexagon bolt (M14): 115 Nm
Hexagon bolt (M16): 200 Nm
– Fit wheel and lower vehicle onto the ground.
– Turn bolt securing drive shaft a further +180į. (Only turn the bolt through this additional angle when the vehicle is standing on wheels: accident risk).

12-10-2012, 10:18 AM
Hey guys. I delved into this over the weekend and ended up finding out I ordered the wrong part (8E0-498-203). I have looked at ECS tuning the the kit the have i guess is a updated part with "C" added after the PN.

I am having an issue with the bigger end of the boot being completely round where as the one that came off is formed to fit snug.

Any help is much appreciated!

12-27-2012, 12:36 PM
Just found out my outer boot on the passenger side is torn..thinking of doing the repair this weekend. Do I need to remove the axle or can I just loosen it and move it to one side?

01-09-2013, 01:50 PM
you need to remove the complete axle


04-05-2013, 10:55 AM
Just ordered my pass side inner boot last night from JHM. Doing it myself for 50 bucks sure does beat paying 500 bucks at the dealer.

04-16-2013, 11:20 AM
Whats the Torque spec for the 17mm Allen head bolt?

05-18-2013, 03:47 PM
Did this today and tried to pull the driveshaft without disconnecting the control arms and tie rod but didn't have any luck. As soon as I popped those off there was more than enough clearance to slide the axle out.

05-23-2013, 11:50 AM
Whats the Torque spec for the 17mm Allen head bolt?

I tried using the 200NM plus 180 noted earlier in this thread, but there was no way I could physically accomplish that with the tools I have. I did 200NM and got about 45 degrees added before calling it a day. My breaker bar was ready to give out.

06-06-2013, 08:09 AM
Does anyone know the torque for the six triple-square bolts?

06-17-2013, 10:22 AM
I tried using the 200NM plus 180 noted earlier in this thread, but there was no way I could physically accomplish that with the tools I have. I did 200NM and got about 45 degrees added before calling it a day. My breaker bar was ready to give out.

This is really too late to reply with help, but the only way I was able to get them out was by heating them up, and backing them out. It was really simple once they were warmed up.

Hope this helps any others searching for info!

cali kid
10-19-2013, 04:37 PM
So by hitting off the inner tripod its not going to ruin it? It seems that it was machined to keep it from coming off..

10-28-2013, 01:16 PM
So by hitting off the inner tripod its not going to ruin it? It seems that it was machined to keep it from coming off..

No, all safe


04-18-2014, 09:52 PM
Bring back this thread. I just received these and will bee using this DIY to tackle it. Any pointers anyone. I've read some was able to install it by turning the steering wheel to one end while working from the opposite. Will this be the same as the 3.2L FWD?
Also, I only received on of those big hex bolts, but two axles. Is that correct?

04-19-2014, 06:30 PM
You need a hex bolt per axle. It's what holds the hub to the axle shaft.

04-20-2014, 01:32 PM
You need a hex bolt per axle. It's what holds the hub to the axle shaft.

I know that. My second one will be shipped out for me to finally get this done next weekend.

06-17-2014, 05:05 PM
I know that. My second one will be shipped out for me to finally get this done next weekend.

Then why did you ask? lol

08-10-2014, 11:25 AM
On the B5/B6 you don't need to touch the control arms to remove the axel. Just turn the steering wheel 3/4 and pull out. I'm sure it's the same for the B7. Just be careful not to damage the ABS sensor.

09-19-2014, 08:11 PM
I'm in the middle of an axle replacement, to avoid having to rebuild the inner CV joint and I have the stock axle out.

Here's my issue; I bought a replacement axle from ECS Tuning, I know, I know, should have gone with Raxle's. But Raxle's is in FL and I'm in MN, so shipping was absurd. So I went to NAPA and they told me that their lifetime warranty axle was $82.47.... But that they couldn't get me one. WTF?! Right? Doesn't matter how good the price is if they can't get me one. Anyways, I ordered a replacement axle from ECS because it was the cheapest. I never go with the cheapest, but I just had a kid 5 months ago, and I'm in the process of buying a house, so this time I went the cheapest route, and I already regret it!

This is the Factory Axle vs's the ECS replacement one. Stock on bottom, ECS replacement axle on top.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/15106260479_0cbe46bacc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p1TwWT)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/p1TwWT) by RAudiB7A4 (https://www.flickr.com/people/89310611@N06/), on Flickr

You may not be able to tell in that picture but here's another one that show's my issue very clearly. Stock on the left, ECS replacement axle on the right.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3885/15106259999_50f1937aac_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p1TwNB) (https://flic.kr/p/p1TwNB) by RAudiB7A4 (https://www.flickr.com/people/89310611@N06/), on Flickr

The first thing you might notice just as I did is that it has a lot less metal where the axle is connected to the transmission and that it does not inspire much confidence when compared to the stock unit.

The next thing that is pretty clearly noticeable is that the shaft of the factory unit is considerably thicker than the shaft of the ECS replacement piece. Again, this is not confidence inspiring.

So I was planning on throwing in the ECS Tuning replacement Axle and forgetting about it. Now, I'm deciding that I'm going to rebuild the OEM piece and put that back in. I have no first hand with RAxles, but everyone around here swears by them so I would say this; Either rebuilt the OEM unit or go with RAxles.

10-15-2014, 09:30 PM
Raxles.com !!!


11-05-2014, 04:31 PM
What boot kit did you order and from where Phil? The one I ordered from Europa sent me a smal outer clamp. The first square on the clamp will not reach the secure tab on the other end of the clamphttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/05/89a1528da7c0f0bc9e524a70f5b41aeb.jpg

12-09-2014, 02:03 PM
Phil, can you link the one you bought? A price or part number?

No online part system here: http://www.raxles.com/products.aspx

ECS kits: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/Cv_Boot/

12-09-2014, 02:43 PM
They are so cheap, I bought it from the Dealer at that time