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fly300kts
11-26-2009, 03:19 PM
Part 1

I was not too stuffed after the Thanksgiving meal so I decided to start the project.
For the Bumper removal, the DIY is here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=298674&highlight=bumper

Remove the following components:

Headlights
Intercooler scoops
Disconnect hood latch cable
Air filter intake conduit
Spark plugs (you need to do that for later)

Then, you should end up like this
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P1.jpg

Then remove the 2 front impact sensors located on each side of the radiator
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P2.jpg

Remove the front support
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P3.jpg

And under supervision of my weekly rides (my primary job )
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P4.jpg

Driver intercooler, disconnect the bottom hose
Passenger intercooler, disconnect the upper hose
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P5.jpg

Now, time to dump the coolant. Located on the bottom left corner, the valve: turn counter clockwise
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P6.jpg

When the circuit is empty, disconnect the bottom hose by lifting the clip and pulling AFT. Be gentle, everything is plastic

Insert 2 bolts on each side of the frame to be able to slide and support the front
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P7.jpg

Now, remove the screws circled in red, on both side of the car
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P8.jpg

Unplug the fans controller harness
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P9.jpg

Because I really want to have access to the front and the bench was close by, I decided to vacuum the AC. Doing so (good thing, my Freon was low); I will be able to slide the entire front end on the side.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P10.jpg

And voila, plenty of room to access the timing belt
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P11.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P12.jpg

How easy the DV access is now [:D]
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P13.jpg

[U]Part 2

Started this morning by removing the Alternator to access the Thermostat Assembly. Pretty straightforward: remove the 4 Allen screws and secure it on the side. No need to remove the connectors on the back.
Now, here is the beast. Pretty easy here as well: Not shown on the picture due to access, you need to remove the 2 top Allen screws of the Oil Cooler to give some slack to a metallic line connected to the valve
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P1.jpg

Valve removed
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P2.jpg

New one & old one side by side
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P3.jpg

Warning: This DIY is for information only. If you decide to use it, it’s at your own risk.

Now the timing belt:
Loosen the 6 screws of the puller Dampner (don’t remove the pulley yet)
Remove the 5 screws of the upper plastic cover
Using the Crankshaft bolt, turn clockwise until the mark on the Camshaft and Crankshaft are aligned. Because both marks could be difficult to see (especially the one on the Dampner pulley) I use a white marker to materialize them a bit better (got old eyes too).

Camshaft
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P4.jpg

Crankshaft
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P5.jpg

Now remove the 6 screws of the pulley Dampner. Remove the bottom protector. As you will see, your bottom mark is now gone so as a safety, I made another mark on the block and the bottom pulley
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P6.jpg

New reference
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P7.jpg

Now removed the nut of the Tensioner and slide out the Tensioner.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P8.jpg

Now remove and replace the water pump as well as both idler (in red)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P9.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P10.jpg

Slide the new belt in place.
When installing the new Tensioner, make sure that the rear tab fits completely inside the block.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P11.jpg

Now, set the tension:
Tight barely the Tensioner nut. Using an Allen wrench, turn clockwise the center of the Tensioner until the notch is aligned with the highlighted dot. Then torque the nut with final value
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P12.jpg

All should look like this
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P13.jpg

Torque Values:

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/P1_zpse3a3f810.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/P1_zpse3a3f810.jpg.html)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/P2_zpsa7dd64d3.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/P2_zpsa7dd64d3.jpg.html)

Using the crankshaft bolt, turn the shaft a complete revolution: This will center the belt on all the pulleys and use this step to control that at the end, all your marks are still aligned.

Time now to put everything back together because you are done and you save yourself a big chunk of cash.


Phil



CUSTOMER ADDITIONAL COMMENTS WHO HAVE FOLLOWED THIS DIY
a. IMPORTANT! before you do anything - read up on it and picture it in your mind doing it. do this a few times. so, your mindset is fresh and have a courage in doing it. of course, the right tools, double check everything, take lots of picture, bring a lot of patience, and take your time.

b. TB access - use Phil's DIY reference - you don't have to disconnect A/C lines - slide out and down to ground put support on radiator - you'll have plenty of room to access TB.

c. T-stat removal - disconnect top hose, remove torx screw on middle metal hose on T-stat body. pry it out with flat screw driver gently and pull middle metal hose out slightly once popped out the T-stat house and STOP. remove the two hex bolt on T-stat and slide out towards you. then pull out bottom hose (pop the clip). you'll have plenty of space and leverage to pull bottom hose. put things back in reverse order.

d: filling coolant - 2 gallons of G12 50/50 mix - squeeze/pump top and bottom coolant hose to let air out and suck in new coolant in engine. do this a few times until you hear coolant flowing on top coolant hose. if you have air, you'll see your coolant in reservoir bubble up. before starting car, leave reservoir open, put heat on HI on low fan setting, start the car and start squeezing/pumping top and bottom coolant lines. you'll feel and hear coolant flowing. run car for a few minutes to get coolant going. do this process a couple of times. put reservoir cap back on and test drive. when done test driving. let car cool down and check coolant level again. add if neccesary. Note: In adding coolant. Don't fill over MAX level. If you do, I'll make a mess.

Blarg
11-26-2009, 07:16 PM
Great job so far, glad to see someone putting this together!

ctk1
11-26-2009, 07:40 PM
WOW!

spitfire11
11-26-2009, 09:08 PM
You're the man

Jake39454
11-26-2009, 09:12 PM
Why did you remove the spark plugs?

fly300kts
11-26-2009, 09:18 PM
Why did you remove the spark plugs?

Once the new timing belt will be in place with the new tensioner, you need to turn the Cranckshaft by the 12 points bolt, at list 2 revolution to:

1/ Make sure you did not make a mistake and all the references are lining up
2/ This will set the timing belt tension

If the plugs stay in place, bo way you will turn the cranck

Phil

Jake39454
11-26-2009, 09:22 PM
Once the new timing belt will be in place with the new tensioner, you need to turn the Cranckshaft by the 12 points bolt, at list 2 revolution to:

1/ Make sure you did not make a mistake and all the references are lining up
2/ This will set the timing belt tension

If the plugs stay in place, bo way you will turn the cranck

Phil

19mm 12 point, I'm very familiar. It can be turned without removing the plugs, no problem. Doesn't hurt to do it, but not needed. Just wanted to make that clear.

It's nice to see people putting forth effort to do DIY's like this for B7's [up]

fly300kts
11-26-2009, 09:24 PM
I have to replace the belt anyway so it's a pleasure to share with the Community [up]
That could save some $$ to some Fellow Ziner's in the future

Phil

nramsey
11-26-2009, 09:51 PM
Nice! And so jealous of your day job. Is that a TBM?

Looks like a pretty awesome "garage" to do car work in!

spitfire11
11-26-2009, 10:44 PM
Looks like a socata TBM 700

fly300kts
11-27-2009, 05:04 AM
Looks like a socata TBM 700

TBM 850 to be exact [:D] but great and correct guess [up]

Phil

fly300kts
11-28-2009, 04:23 PM
Replacement done. Posted Part 2

Phil

plokm
11-28-2009, 08:37 PM
Nice!!!!

plokm
11-28-2009, 08:40 PM
Fly I guess you going to take that plane to my house and change my timing belt for me!!! lolz

fly300kts
11-29-2009, 04:13 AM
Anytime [up]

Phil

Doctor
11-29-2009, 06:06 AM
Excellent DIY...But hey, its Phil right...What else could it be...
Way to go man...Thumbs up

v_audi
11-29-2009, 06:21 AM
Outstanding write up. Thanks!

airbornerifleman
11-29-2009, 07:03 AM
One again you have proven how much of an asset you are to the AZ community. Well done, Phil.

+rep from me[up]

EDIT: Sorry Phil, it appears I cannot give you multiple reps

illegitimus
11-29-2009, 07:05 AM
Phil, did you make use of the tools rental the site provided? Did you replace the accessory belt as well? How much coolant does it take to fill the system? Thanks.

fly300kts
11-29-2009, 08:02 AM
Yes I rented the tools in case the Crankshaft and Camshaft seal were leaking. Because they were fine, I did not use the tool so no, you don't need the tools.
Yes, accessory belt was part of the kit I purchased so I replaced it. I also replaced the pulley (not part of the kit but only $40).
The kit I purchased comes with 2 jug of G12, 1.5l each. You need to dilute with water at 50% ratio and I used almost all of it

Phil

illegitimus
11-29-2009, 08:07 AM
Yes I rented the tools in case the Crankshaft and Camshaft seal were leaking. Because they were fine, I did not use the tool so no, you don't need the tools.
Yes, accessory belt was part of the kit I purchased so I replaced it. I also replaced the pulley (not part of the kit but only $40).
The kit I purchased comes with 2 jug of G12, 1.5l each. You need to dilute with water at 50% ratio and I used almost all of it

Phil

Good to know that the tools are only required if you need to take the pulleys off. Thanks for the DIY!

Hyphy
11-29-2009, 01:17 PM
Good stuff Phil

Goped220
11-29-2009, 03:24 PM
Do you need to place the Thermostat when you doing the timing belt?

Zebman
11-29-2009, 03:27 PM
Do you need to place the Thermostat when you doing the timing belt?

You're in there, may as well while you have the clip off versus doing it twice.

I'm excited to put 18k more miles on my car and do this. I love wrenching, especially when it makes my dad's head want to explode. Taking the entire clip off will do it![wrench]

AWDTURBO
11-29-2009, 03:37 PM
Great work!

fly300kts
11-29-2009, 03:44 PM
Do you need to place the Thermostat when you doing the timing belt?

As already said, better be safe than sorry and because everything was open, I've done it.
Nevetheless, Water pump is Mandatory.

Phil

Chb04
11-29-2009, 06:32 PM
Phil awesome write up and I'm ready to tackle it myself! How long did it take roughly?

fly300kts
11-29-2009, 07:16 PM
Count a full day at easy pace.

Phil

fly300kts
11-30-2009, 04:34 PM
Outstanding write up. Thanks!

^^ Thank you

Phil

fly300kts
12-05-2009, 04:11 AM
Good stuff Phil

I was waiting for you [:D]

Phil

JRMSLINEA4
12-05-2009, 11:21 AM
One again you have proven how much of an asset you are to the AZ community. Well done, Phil.

+rep from me[up]

EDIT: Sorry Phil, it appears I cannot give you multiple repsFunny. [:D]

Dangler
12-05-2009, 11:35 AM
nice

Sal_B7
12-13-2009, 04:49 PM
Awesome stuff Phil!! Saw this and thought about doing it myself but i think ill leave it to the professionals. lol

Quick question?? What mileage is this required at? I looked through my maintenance book and all it said at 75K was to replace belt for 1.8T, nothing about 2.0T. I know someone got a letter from Audi saying it will be good to 110K i think? But does that include '05.5?

Sal_B7
12-14-2009, 12:13 PM
Anyone know if this needs to be done at 75K?

Dan@EuropaParts
12-14-2009, 12:18 PM
Hey folks. We just loaded the B7 2.0T Timing Belt Kit (http://www.europaparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a4-b7-2-0t.html?utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=timingbeltkits&utm_campaign=postreply) on the site. Check it out:

http://www.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/t/i/timing-belt-kit-2-0t.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a4-b7-2-0t.html?utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=timingbeltkits&utm_campaign=postreply)

shamrok
12-14-2009, 10:07 PM
Anyone know if this needs to be done at 75K?

The initial guidance was 75k, but it was revised (at least on MY06 2.0Ts) to 110k. http://microsites.audiusa.com/my09/lifestyle/pdf/Maintenance2006.pdf. I'd print this out, bring it to the dealer and ask the service guys about what years the guidance applies to.

Sal_B7
12-14-2009, 11:21 PM
^^Thanks a lot for that. Yeah i have a 05.5 so wondering if that applies to me as well. The paper says replace timing belt at 110K for 2.0T FSI only, so hopefully im in that category. Definitely going to check it out, not looking forward to forking out the $$$ for this right now. Ill give them a call tomorrow.

eskimopunk
12-14-2009, 11:49 PM
Fantastic write up, + rep.

fly300kts
12-15-2009, 05:55 AM
^^Thanks a lot for that. Yeah i have a 05.5 so wondering if that applies to me as well. The paper says replace timing belt at 110K for 2.0T FSI only, so hopefully im in that category. Definitely going to check it out, not looking forward to forking out the $$$ for this right now. Ill give them a call tomorrow.

Guys,

Whatever the paper says, I would not gamble with this. Yes, once removed, the belt look almost like new but I would be more concern about the Tensionner and other small bearings. If they seize, you are done and it will end up costing you more [headbang]. My tensionner once removed, had a pretty consequent side play

My 2 cent but hey, what do I know [:D]

Phil

illegitimus
12-15-2009, 06:06 AM
Phil, did you have to evacuate the AC system? I mean, is it needed so the radiator and the ac condenser are removed completely to gain access to the belt? Can the radiator assembly be swung away like on a B6 being hinged on one side?

fly300kts
12-15-2009, 06:32 AM
I did evacuate the system because I had access to the Freon bench but it's not mandatory, you can swing the front end on the side

Phil

illegitimus
12-15-2009, 07:37 AM
I did evacuate the system because I had access to the Freon bench but it's not mandatory, you can swing the front end on the side

Phil

thanks for confirming this...

tankdeer
12-15-2009, 08:29 AM
Great job. Curious, what mileage are you at Phil? I'm at 60k so trying to plan when I should tackle this myself.

fly300kts
12-15-2009, 08:33 AM
Great job. Curious, what mileage are you at Phil? I'm at 60k so trying to plan when I should tackle this myself.

Here is the answer [:D]

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/IMG_5243Large.jpg

Phil

tankdeer
12-15-2009, 08:36 AM
If only the firewall at work didn't block the pics. I'll check it again when I get home. Thanks man.

fly300kts
12-15-2009, 09:02 AM
Burn the firewall !!!!

Phil

EuroA4
12-15-2009, 11:05 AM
Phil, do you happen to have any of the Tq specs for the various bolts in this procedure?

fly300kts
12-15-2009, 11:23 AM
^^ Damn, that's a good one, I trashed my notes. If you give me some time and really need them, I can search them again

Phil

shamrok
12-15-2009, 11:40 AM
Whatever the paper says, I would not gamble with this. Yes, once removed, the belt look almost like new but I would be more concern about the Tensionner and other small bearings. If they seize, you are done and it will end up costing you more [headbang]. My tensionner once removed, had a pretty consequent side play

Agreed, but I'm CPO'd, so I'll wait until 100k personally.

dougyfresh
01-18-2010, 04:18 PM
This thread really should be a sticky. You guys should petition for a B7 A4 DIY/FAQ subforum.



Phil, do you happen to have any of the Tq specs for the various bolts in this procedure?

OP... Please add this to the original post. Thanks!

In reference to the timing belt exploded diagram below:
(8) eccentric pulley - 25Nm
(12) damper roller - 25Nm
(14) water pump bolts - 15Nm
(15) damper roller - 35Nm
(1) (5) timing belt cover bolts - 10Nm
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/543/b7_2_0fsi_timingbelt1.jpg



and reference to the serpentine belt exploded diagram:
(3) crank serpentine belt pulley [replace anytime removed] - 10Nm plus 90deg (1/4 turn)
(6) serpentine belt tensioner bolts - 23Nm
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/543/b7_2_0fsi_timingbelt2.jpg

everything else (front end): good and tight

fly300kts
01-18-2010, 04:42 PM
I asked the Mods to make it sticky but they don't seems to care
Oh well [:/]

phil

Sharkfin
03-31-2010, 03:53 PM
Hey Phil I'm bumping this with a few questions:

1. Did you buy a kit or the individual parts from the dealer?

2. how long would you say it took you total?

I'm at 70k and don't plan on doing this until at least 80k if not farther.

fly300kts
03-31-2010, 05:03 PM
1. I bought a kit on the web. fyi, Most of the kits don't provide the 6 Allen screws of the crankshaft pulley. Get them from me Dealer because you will have to replace them
2. I took my time, and ended up finishing the job in 7 hours
3. Don't wanna be an ass but prefer be safe than sorry in life. I would not extend the replacement further than 80K. I know that Audi has extended the life to 115K (I think) but as a reminder, Audi also says "recommend". If the belt failed before, you are on your own, whatever Audi recommend.

Phil

Sharkfin
03-31-2010, 05:20 PM
Where did you get your kit from?
And yeah I know I shouldn't wait too long, but I honestly don't have time to do that (or the space/tools) until at least August of this year.

fly300kts
03-31-2010, 06:00 PM
Don't really remember. It was $290 shipped

phil

CleverA4Name
04-01-2010, 06:55 AM
Where did you get your kit from?
And yeah I know I shouldn't wait too long, but I honestly don't have time to do that (or the space/tools) until at least August of this year.

I did a rough price comparison between the one offered on europaparts and ecs, and from what I found it seems that the EuropaParts kit is a much better bang for your buck.

With the Europa kit, you get the thermostat and the service sticker (I didn't even see the thermostat on ECS, but maybe they could chime in and point me in the correct direction if it is there).

Another thing that I found was that the ECS didn't come with the 6 M8x16 bolts as Phil was saying, while the Europa kit did.

Here are the links to the 2 kits, hope this helps Nate!

http://www.europaparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a4-b7-2-0t.html?utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=timingbeltkits&utm_campaign=postreply

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Engine/Timing/Timing_Belt_Kit/ES1876845/

illegitimus
04-01-2010, 07:22 AM
I did a rough price comparison between the one offered on europaparts and ecs, and from what I found it seems that the EuropaParts kit is a much better bang for your buck.

With the Europa kit, you get the thermostat and the service sticker (I didn't even see the thermostat on ECS, but maybe they could chime in and point me in the correct direction if it is there).

Another thing that I found was that the ECS didn't come with the 6 M8x16 bolts as Phil was saying, while the Europa kit did.

Here are the links to the 2 kits, hope this helps Nate!

http://www.europaparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a4-b7-2-0t.html?utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=timingbeltkits&utm_campaign=postreply

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Engine/Timing/Timing_Belt_Kit/ES1876845/ I actually discussed the kit with Europa rep over IM and they also confirmed that the parts in their kit are all OEM as opposed to any other place I talked/emailed where their parts could not be confirmed OEM. Honestly, I'd rather pay more but make sure the stuff is OEM.

CleverA4Name
04-01-2010, 07:41 AM
^This as well, I forgot to put that in there about Europa, thanks for catching that Illegitimus

fly300kts
04-01-2010, 07:48 AM
The parts I installed where OEM (they all came in OEM packaging)

Phil

Sharkfin
04-01-2010, 08:06 AM
I was planning no getting them from Matt at Europa, but not for several months. We'll see what happens as i rack up miles this summer

FASTONE
04-01-2010, 08:08 AM
Phil strikes again!!! Amazing DIY!!!

illegitimus
04-01-2010, 02:02 PM
The parts I installed where OEM (they all came in OEM packaging)

Phil
Do you remember what place it was by any chance?

fly300kts
04-01-2010, 02:24 PM
Found it !!!
And they now include the 6 crankshaft bolts
http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21129-1

Phil

dougyfresh
04-01-2010, 02:47 PM
1. I bought a kit on the web. fyi, Most of the kits don't provide the 6 Allen screws of the crankshaft pulley. Get them from me Dealer because you will have to replace them
2. I took my time, and ended up finishing the job in 7 hours
3. Don't wanna be an ass but prefer be safe than sorry in life. I would not extend the replacement further than 80K. I know that Audi has extended the life to 115K (I think) but as a reminder, Audi also says "recommend". If the belt failed before, you are on your own, whatever Audi recommend.

Phil


All.
Be careful with those 6 allen bolts.

They are aluminum and can strip out easily. I stripped 3 of the 6 when I did my friend's B7 timing belt the other month. Managed to get two of those three out with a larger allen and then I broke that allen in the third on. Had to hammer a 12pt 12mm socket over that last one to get it out.

Make sure you use a new allen socket and clean out the heads of the bolts prior to trying to break them free. A tap of a hammer on the socket to seat it properly in the bolt will also help prevent stripping them.

fly300kts
04-01-2010, 03:25 PM
You can always drill them, I did that for 2 of them

phil

dougyfresh
04-01-2010, 04:52 PM
You can always drill them, I did that for 2 of them

phil

I was. But drilling doesn't help when you break off a hardened steel allen head in the bolt.

CT Transporter
04-01-2010, 05:01 PM
this writeup was asbolutey incredible ! this makes me want to do it myself just for the glory of it....Phil...where can i get all the tools for this job?

fly300kts
04-01-2010, 05:26 PM
I rented the tools from the same website, but if your Camshaft and Crankshaft seals don't leak, than you don't need any tool beside the usual shop wrenches.
It was a great project. Just don't rush it and you should be fine. It's great to see how much money you saved once the task is completed.

Phil

rs6
04-27-2010, 08:02 AM
Just did this yesterday. Some observations:

-Yes, those 6 allen bolts for the crank pulley are a b!tch to remove and very easy to strip, although I got lucky and managed to save all of mine (using quality tools here makes all the difference, thanks MAC). It does appear that they are stretch bolts so they should be replaced but I had no time to buy them so I reused the old ones.
-The coolant hose that runs in front of the top cover is also a b!tch to remove. I left it in place and worked the cover off with some muscle and finesse.
-You don't have to remove the radiator support/radiator/condenser. Using an old B5/B6 trick, use the long reinforcement bar bolts, screw into bumper shock holes and you can pull out the rad. support to provide enough room to work with.
-When refilling the coolant, remove the bleed screw on top of black metal tube next to the cylinder head and slowy add fluid into reservoir until fluid comes out of bleed hole.

fly300kts
04-27-2010, 10:56 AM
Glad you found it was useful

Phil

ClownTrigger
06-15-2010, 12:52 PM
Insert 2 bolts on each side of the frame to be able to slide and support the front
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/P7.jpg

I know that there's a special tool number for these bolts, but does anyone happen to know the thread size and approx length so I can just go over to home depot and get a few long bolts and washers?

Thanks for the DIY!

clemsongt
06-15-2010, 01:42 PM
This is the thermostat, yes?
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P3.jpg

fly300kts
06-15-2010, 03:17 PM
I know that there's a special tool number for these bolts, but does anyone happen to know the thread size and approx length so I can just go over to home depot and get a few long bolts and washers?

Thanks for the DIY!

Don't worry about them,you can do without them
I think they are M8, 150 mm long

Phil

fly300kts
06-15-2010, 03:17 PM
This is the thermostat, yes?
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Timing%20Belt/Timing%20Belt%20P2/P3.jpg

Yes it is

Phil

wre_fer
06-15-2010, 09:02 PM
Awesome write up, at 90k and ready to do this.

thanks!

fly300kts
06-16-2010, 03:58 AM
Awesome write up, at 90k and ready to do this.

thanks!

Feel free to contact me during the process if any question

Phil

ClownTrigger
06-16-2010, 06:45 AM
Don't worry about them,you can do without them
I think they are M8, 150 mm long

Phil

Thanks, and yes, they're M8x1.5 thread. Something to make your procedure a little simpler...

Without evacuating the AC, you can't remove and swing away the lock carrier (rad support) so there really isn't any need to remove the intercooler pipes, ducting, impact sensors, reinforcement bar, or even the headlights. The lock carrier "service mode" pulls everything out enough to get the job done, and there's enough slack in everything so you don't have to disconnect anything (except in my case at least, the fan connector and the one below it had to be disconnected and removed from the bracket for slack). After removing the bumper cover, screw the M8x1.5 bolts into the frame, and remove the six T-30 torx screws and the six 13mm bolts, and the whole thing sides out with everything still plugged in. According to the service manual, you're supposed to take two of the T-30 screws and screw the rear upper holes of the lock carrier into the front holes of the fenders to keep it from flopping around, but I left them out to allow for more clearance.

I've noticed that a few posts above refer to the crank dampner bolts as "allan bolts". On my 2005.5, as well as the replacement bolts I got with my kit, these bolts are not allen head bolts, but are 10mm XZN (triple square 12 pt) bolts. A six sided hex key or socket will almost surely strip these out.

Has anyone else had a clogged coolant petcock? I turned mine CCW, then back CW, then CCW again (90 degrees), tapped it with my hand, stuck a needlenose into the drain hole.... nothin. I had to pop the hose to get the coolant out. I felt like I was working on a Mk2 again.

Sales@RAI
06-16-2010, 06:50 AM
Hey guys, great thread here. Getting your hands dirty is a great way to save some $$ and keep your car happy.

http://www.raimotorsport.com/RAI-B7-2-0T-Timing-Belt-Kit-p/raitbkitb7fsi.htm

That is our B7 timing belt kit, I can also get the 6mm bolts in the kit, just shoot me a PM when you order!


I actually discussed the kit with Europa rep over IM and they also confirmed that the parts in their kit are all OEM as opposed to any other place I talked/emailed where their parts could not be confirmed OEM. Honestly, I'd rather pay more but make sure the stuff is OEM.

FWIW, if the parts were Genuine Audi, they would be quite a bit more. OEM in today's world just means that the brand makes the parts for Audi. Some OEM manufacturers are better than others

schirm
06-16-2010, 07:07 AM
doing this over the weekend

ClownTrigger
06-16-2010, 07:54 AM
The kit I just got from europaparts wasn't all OEM. It was all definitely quality stuff, but IIRC the only thing I got with four rings on it was the updated DV that has nothing to do with the TB kit. I can list off manufacturers when I get home tonight if anyone's interested, but nothing I received was second rate.

Sales@RAI
06-16-2010, 08:30 AM
The kit I just got from europaparts wasn't all OEM. It was all definitely quality stuff, but IIRC the only thing I got with four rings on it was the updated DV that has nothing to do with the TB kit. I can list off manufacturers when I get home tonight if anyone's interested, but nothing I received was second rate.

Right, which is fine and pretty much everyone that sells timing belt kits uses these parts, because OEM would probably be double the price

ClownTrigger
06-16-2010, 07:03 PM
Hey folks. We just loaded the B7 2.0T Timing Belt Kit (http://www.europaparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a4-b7-2-0t.html?utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=timingbeltkits&utm_campaign=postreply) on the site. Check it out:

http://www.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/t/i/timing-belt-kit-2-0t.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/timing-belt-kit-a4-b7-2-0t.html?utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=timingbeltkits&utm_campaign=postreply)

What the hell is this for? I paid for it but have no idea where it goes.. lol

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/gcatalfo/125aa77b.jpg

ClownTrigger
06-16-2010, 07:06 PM
I've noticed that a few posts above refer to the crank dampner bolts as "allan bolts". On my 2005.5, as well as the replacement bolts I got with my kit, these bolts are not allen head bolts, but are 10mm XZN (triple square 12 pt) bolts. A six sided hex key or socket will almost surely strip these out.

Also, I'm a big fat liar. My old bolts were hex cap (allen) but the new ones are XZN. No probs getting the old ones out though. phew.

dbcperformance
06-16-2010, 10:00 PM
We sold over and installed number of these kits. We list all part numbers as well as the manufacturers which are all OE Suppliers i.e. Any questions, we would be more than happy to answer:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/product_p/b7a4fsi.timing.kit.htm

fly300kts
06-17-2010, 04:01 AM
We sold over and installed number of these kits. We list all part numbers as well as the manufacturers which are all OE Suppliers i.e. Any questions, we would be more than happy to answer:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/product_p/b7a4fsi.timing.kit.htm

I ordered my Kit from DBCperformance and these Guys are Top notch selling great products

Phil

joeygriebel
06-30-2010, 04:53 PM
wow!!!!

fly300kts
06-30-2010, 05:09 PM
wow!!!!

What happen? [:D]

Phil

damien
06-30-2010, 05:37 PM
How much will an indy charge to do this?

Excellent write up.

the director
06-30-2010, 07:51 PM
Great write up Phil, I just bought my B7 and its sitting right around 73k so I plan on doing this ASAP. I definately agree with being over cautious on this maintenance. I had my B5 A4's TB tensioner go about 6 months after I bought it and if the 2.0T is an interference engine like the 1.8T is then this is what you'll have to look forward to...

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=72921&pictureid=105424
Not fun times.

Thanks again Phil looks pretty similar to the B5 procedure that I am unfortunately well aware of.

BTW, not trying to thread jack, just want to stress the importance of this maintenance...

markcorrado1
08-16-2010, 09:21 AM
Just finished my TB job yesterday and OMG, Murphy's Law f'd with me through the entire job!!!

All I gotta say is make sure you have these 2 tools: 4mm triple square socket (to remove the metal hose going into the thermostat):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/markcorrado1/P1.jpg

And an IRWIN bolt out kit, you'll most likely need the 1/2 socket to remove the crank pulley sockets that will round out (3 out 6 in my case). The only other thing I could think of is maybe it would be better to use an impact screw driver with the allen socket first. But if you do round out the bolts, you will have to hammer on the 1/2 IRWIN bolt remover socket and I do mean hammer because the space between the center crank bolt and the 6 allen head bolts is very small so you'll have to force it on there!!!

Other tools you'll need is Torx t20 and t30 and then after that a different sockets 10mm, 11mm, and 13mm mostly with different long extensions.

Also with me having a CVT tranny I had to remove the 2 transmission cooler lines from the radiator on the passenger side, didn't lose too much fluid and within the next hundred miles I'm due for a tranny flush anyway. But because of all the hurdles I encountered my TB job took 3 bloody days on and off between trying to find the triple square 4mm socket and the 3 stupid crank pulley bolts.

fly300kts
08-16-2010, 11:13 AM
I hope one day the Admins will finally decide to put this post in the DIY section

Phil

viziers
08-16-2010, 12:00 PM
Good luck with that as I submitted a DIY for a FWD to AWD conversion through the proper channels a year ago and still have not heard anything!!! I'm tempted to post it in the B7 Tech forum....


vizi

naiku
02-15-2011, 10:48 AM
I am going to need to replace the belt on my car in the next few months, coming up on 90k and do not want to leave this any longer than I have to. The DIY appears pretty straight forward, but how easy is it? I am far from an experienced mechanic, but can follow directions and am able to do most of the simpler things on the car (valve cover gasket, oil changes, spark plugs etc).

Hoping that this is as straight forward as it appears and saving myself $400-$500.

Dangler
02-15-2011, 12:53 PM
I plan on ordering my timing belt kit from blauparts.com they offer a timing belt tool kit rental. I wanted to know if it is really needed to get the timing belt tool kit along with the replacement parts??? I want to order it now, and do the install at a later time. Blauparts only lets you order the timing belt tool kit, when you order the timing belt kit, and there is a time limit with how long you can hold on to the tool kit. So Basically, can this job be accomplished with basic tools, and if there are special tools, can they be fabricated????

fly300kts
02-15-2011, 06:12 PM
I plan on ordering my timing belt kit from blauparts.com they offer a timing belt tool kit rental. I wanted to know if it is really needed to get the timing belt tool kit along with the replacement parts??? I want to order it now, and do the install at a later time. Blauparts only lets you order the timing belt tool kit, when you order the timing belt kit, and there is a time limit with how long you can hold on to the tool kit. So Basically, can this job be accomplished with basic tools, and if there are special tools, can they be fabricated????

You don't need any tool. What Blauparts is renting are 2 rods to slide out the bumper but slide it to the side, same result. They also rent the 2 extractors to replace the garlock seal of the crankshaft and camshaft. If they don't leak, leave them alone.
Blaupart has the most complete kit around and great quality. For example, the empeller water pump is metallic while most competitors offer it in plastic, proned to failed. The only item included in the kit is the OEM stricker to write down the mileage and install on the timing belt cover. ECS has it for $3

Phil

vbrad26
02-15-2011, 06:55 PM
yeah $3 but like $10 shipping lol
i had to order something else...which was fine lol

Dangler
02-15-2011, 09:32 PM
Thanks for the response Phil. I'm going to order the kit tonight, and I'm going to do it myself. With your DIY and My Bentley Manual, I shouldn't have any problem doing it myself. I've got pretty much all the tools needed for this job too. I'm assuming you meant to say that the blauparts kit "doesn't" include the sticker, because you mentioned that ECS tuning carriers it correct??

Thanks again.

chrislane31
02-16-2011, 07:19 AM
For the crank pulley bolts go to Sears and buy a brand new Allen socket. We had a used one that looked fine but it rounded off in 3 off the bolt heads.

Dangler
02-16-2011, 07:40 AM
oh and europa parts and dbc performance carry the service sticker also. Shipping is more reasonable from these two, becasue they can ship usps.

and chris, i was thinking about picking up some new tools or some high quality tools that are made better and to tighter tolerances to prevent any delays from stripping bolts.

vbrad26
02-17-2011, 03:14 PM
just got all my parts in today phil...

clemsongt
02-17-2011, 03:39 PM
PDF of the step by step from ELSAWin (https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B8U8GhSl97soNWQzZGRmMzAtZGNkNy00MDNiLTljYmQ tOTRmMmJjNTRlNGVi&hl=en)

Thought this might be of use to some. The more information that is out there the better. This document also has torque specs and which bolts should be replaced and not reused.

Phil, if you find this useful enough, you can add the link to your original post.

Dangler
02-18-2011, 08:40 AM
just got all my parts in today phil...

Just got my enhanced kit from blauparts. the components are really nice.

rensho
08-14-2011, 02:33 PM
Fly300kts, thanks again for creating an amazing DYI.

I bought the TB kit from Blauparts, after looking at several others. The kit is very high quality, and includes everything xcept the sticker. It includes the 6 bolts for the damper pulley. They include great instructions in the kit. I would buy again from these guys.

My install took 8 easy hours. I've never removed the bumper before, so that ate 1hr right there.
Anyone else feel that 15ft/lbs is too little for the damper pulley bolts? It took so little effort to get to 15lbs.
My TB belt did not look worn/dry/cracked. All the tensioners/idlers felt good as well, no play.
I did not touch the crank/cam seals.

Tips:
--Remove the front wheels and put the car on jack stands. I wasted time with ramps, only to NOT be able to get at the screws/bolts for the bumper removal.
--Use the 2 M8x120 bolts that hold the aluminum bumper rail as the slider pins(tool 3411) instead of buying M8 bolts.
--I left the front carrier, lights, rad, etc in place and just moved everything to the service position.
--Hammer in your allen key into the damper bolts before turning them. I started to round one of them because it wasn't fully seated.
--Don't start this unless you have the 10mm triplesquare needed to remove the aluminum bumper rail.
--I didn't pull the heater hose to bleed the system. I filled it and drove it for 3-4 mins and the system burped. It then took another liter or so. Ended up with about 4.5L drained and filled.

--Most importantly: Before you start putting things back together, make a checklist of things to check and torque: Idlers, tensioner, tensioner keyed into pocket of block, etc.

shiro1745
10-24-2011, 09:54 AM
Phil, why didn't you replace the crankshaft and cam seals since you had everything apart? I understand they were not leaking but it can happen anytime soon right? So I don't see why not do it unless you know something we don't. And by the way is this something difficult to do?

How long did it take you to get the job done?

I'm about to change mine very soon

fly300kts
11-21-2011, 07:34 AM
Phil, why didn't you replace the crankshaft and cam seals since you had everything apart? I understand they were not leaking but it can happen anytime soon right? So I don't see why not do it unless you know something we don't. And by the way is this something difficult to do?

How long did it take you to get the job done?

I'm about to change mine very soon

Total job, when used to, about 6 hrs
Crankshaft and Camshaft seal can be a real pain to replace, mainly to extract, even with the tool

Phil

B5 Quattro
01-10-2012, 08:48 AM
Wow, Good write up.
Thanks.

shiro1745
02-01-2012, 07:46 AM
Total job, when used to, about 6 hrs
Crankshaft and Camshaft seal can be a real pain to replace, mainly to extract, even with the tool

Phil

Thanks Phil

walky_talky20
02-02-2012, 06:11 PM
Just wanted to add a tip here. It seems there is a lot of trouble with those M6 crank pulley bolts stripping on people. This is a very common problem on all modern Audi's. Cleaning the allen hole out and hammering the tool into is a great tip. Another tip I would add is to use a chisel and hammer. You want to give each bolt a really good hit on the *side* of the bolt head. Your chisel edge would be perpendicular to the bolt's shaft, not parallel (else it would easily slip when you go to hit it). You want to try and contact the bolt head as near to the base as possible. Giving it several hits is not a bad idea either. Don't be afraid if you are denting the bolt a bit, you are replacing it anyway. Getting it out in 1 piece is the name of the game here. This percussive shock to the bolt will help to break it free. In reality, you are applying a very minor stretch to the top of the bolt, which serves to loosen it in its hole. This works extremely well at reducing the amount of torque you must apply with your allen tool to extract the bolt, thus reducing the chance of it stripping.

I realize the clearance may be more of an issue on the 2.0T due to the use of 6 bolts instead of 4 (like a 1.8T). But whatever contact you can get on the bolt will be helpful.

In the event the bolt begins to strip...STOP...and hit it a few more times, and continue. In the event that the bolt is already stripped and your tools are having a hard time applying much loosening torque to the bolt, you can actually have a helper chisel/tap the bolt head *while* you attempt to turn the bolt. Work up the best solution you have to get some torque on it (maybe a torx socket, or a bolt-out socket, or pound in a larger allen), and then apply as much twist as you can without stripping while somebody taps on it with the chisel+hammer. This percussive shock while turning is very effective, basically a very controlled impact driver type action.

This is a method I use on every Audi/VW crank pulley bolt I remove, and I've never had to drill one out or use bolt-out type tools, even on very rusty, over-torqued, re-used bolts. It works every time.

shiro1745
02-07-2012, 08:35 AM
I plan on ordering my timing belt kit from blauparts.com they offer a timing belt tool kit rental. I wanted to know if it is really needed to get the timing belt tool kit along with the replacement parts??? I want to order it now, and do the install at a later time. Blauparts only lets you order the timing belt tool kit, when you order the timing belt kit, and there is a time limit with how long you can hold on to the tool kit. So Basically, can this job be accomplished with basic tools, and if there are special tools, can they be fabricated????

For whoever wants to get the kit from Blauparts,
they let you order the tool kit 30 days after you place the order. I talked to them about this yesterday. What you need to do is when you order the tool kit put you timing belt kit order number in and they will figure it out. I just ordered my belt kit and I'll probably get the tool kit before I start the job. It would be a good idea to call them before and tell them your location this way they can tell you how many days the shipping will take. Since I'm in NJ it would take 2 days to get it they said.
They seem really nice and helpful.

EDIT: I said 30 days ^ it's actually 90 days, I just talked to them, so you basically have three months to rent the tool kit after you purchased your timing belt kit.

betyouaint
04-17-2012, 08:11 PM
A tip I picked up 20 years ago during my first ever timing belt change was to not only mark the positions of the cam pulleys and crankshaft, but to continue those marks onto the belt itself. Then, once you remove the belt, transfer the marks to the new belt and ensure the new belt goes on in the same position as the original using the marks. This way you don't have to rely on cam locks or setting TDC or anything of that ilk. If all the pulleys line up correctly with the belt then you shouldn't have to move the crankshaft at all and will only need to tweak the cam pulley(s) a degree or two if they were disturbed during removal. This technique has never done me wrong and makes the whole thing less complex.

BTW... Thanks for the guide. Great work.

ericpaulyoung
04-18-2012, 03:22 PM
We sold over and installed number of these kits. We list all part numbers as well as the manufacturers which are all OE Suppliers i.e. Any questions, we would be more than happy to answer:

http://www.dbcperformance.com/product_p/b7a4fsi.timing.kit.htm

That is a really great price for the kit.
- Eric

rosd2a4
04-28-2012, 11:47 AM
Hello, Moderators. Can we add a sticky on TB change i.e. "Tips and Tricks for TB change" or other DIY's. Phil's write up was awesome(Thank you Phil). I would have not done it without it. Here are some tips for whoever is willing to take on the chanllenge on doing it and saving money and instant gratification:

a. IMPORTANT! before you do anything - read up on it and picture it in your mind doing it. do this a few times. so, your mindset is fresh and have a courage in doing it. of course, the right tools, double check everything, take lots of picture, bring a lot of patience, and take your time.

b. TB access - use Phil's DIY reference - you don't have to disconnect A/C lines - slide out and down to ground put support on radiator - you'll have plenty of room to access TB.

c. T-stat removal - disconnect top hose, remove torx screw on middle metal hose on T-stat body. pry it out with flat screw driver gently and pull middle metal hose out slightly once popped out the T-stat house and STOP. remove the two hex bolt on T-stat and slide out towards you. then pull out bottom hose (pop the clip). you'll have plenty of space and leverage to pull bottom hose. put things back in reverse order.

d: filling coolant - 2 gallons of G12 50/50 mix - squeeze/pump top and bottom coolant hose to let air out and suck in new coolant in engine. do this a few times until you hear coolant flowing on top coolant hose. if you have air, you'll see your coolant in reservoir bubble up. before starting car, leave reservoir open, put heat on HI on low fan setting, start the car and start squeezing/pumping top and bottom coolant lines. you'll feel and hear coolant flowing. run car for a few minutes to get coolant going. do this process a couple of times. put reservoir cap back on and test drive. when done test driving. let car cool down and check coolant level again. add if neccesary. Note: In adding coolant. Don't fill over MAX level. If you do, I'll make a mess.

NOTE: It's up to you if you want to follow these tips. I am NOT responsible for any damage to your car or engine. Good Luck!

nycmalu
07-30-2012, 09:06 AM
Phil, where did you get those bolts to slide the front off? I went to the dealership and they have nothing like that. Do you have a part number or anything I can look up online?

BMT62688
02-03-2013, 08:38 AM
I used this DIY yesterday and somehow I got the whole job done in a little over 4 hours and I double and triple checked everything. I don't know what mileage everyone is doing this at but I have 68600 and I had a squeaky pulley and when I got everything off I noticed the belt jumped a tooth and it was actually stretched enough that I could push on it and get it to come off the one idler pulley so my suggestion is that if you have a louder than normal FSI tick or here a squeaking pulley get prepared to do your timing.

fly300kts
03-30-2013, 06:35 AM
Phil, where did you get those bolts to slide the front off? I went to the dealership and they have nothing like that. Do you have a part number or anything I can look up online?

I made them. Use some threaded rod (M8) from home depot

Phil

papadelogan
06-20-2013, 10:03 AM
Does anyone have the proper torque values for all the bolts that need to be removed/reinstalled/replaced for this DIY? I am also replacing the serpentine belt tensioner so the torque value(s) for those bolt(s) would be highly appreciated. Thanks!!

fly300kts
06-21-2013, 05:53 AM
Does anyone have the proper torque values for all the bolts that need to be removed/reinstalled/replaced for this DIY? I am also replacing the serpentine belt tensioner so the torque value(s) for those bolt(s) would be highly appreciated. Thanks!!

Added to Page 1

Phil

papadelogan
06-21-2013, 06:03 AM
Thanks Phil!!!

tehuberduber
10-09-2013, 02:02 PM
Just got my tb kit in from Europa and am planning to do this in the next few weeks. I've already got this guide printed out to have on hand for reference. Thanks for the great info!

M0E7
11-07-2013, 07:11 PM
Thanks for this write-up!

Had my car for less than a week and successfully did the timing belt job, thermostat, accessory belt tensioner and idler pulley, diverter valve, and snub mount. Got my kit from Europa parts. Some notes:

-I followed "walky_talky20"'s advice above and had zero issues getting out the crank pulley bolts (98k miles, I expected some problems)

-The trickiest part for me was the thermostat. Installed the first time and had a bad leak from a damaged Thermostat-to-Engine seal. Replaced that and had the common leak at the hard-line going into the thermostat. After loosening the 2 oil cooler bolts and adjusting the hardline this seems to have gone away. I did not have any problems bleeding the system or with overheating, but had to add a little coolant over the next 2 days so there was definitely some air left in the system.

Shanster
11-12-2013, 08:18 AM
Unfortunately, I do not have the space to perform my own TB change so I'm bringing it to a shop. They quoted me a good price of $895 (parts and labor). I followed up asking if thermostat, accessory drive belt tensioner and idler pulley were included and he replied that they were not. I understand that these are OPTIONAL (based on kits from our vendors), but should I go ahead and have them replaced anyway?
He made it sound like the thermostat really isn't necessary if it is working fine but did not comment on the drive belt tensioner or idler pulley.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

A-BlacK_MambA-4
11-13-2013, 09:22 AM
Most kits that I have saw include those and yes replace them while you're in there. I did this in my driveway no need for shop space lol Not sure if $895 is a good price or not. Sounds kind of high to me. Maybe others can chime in.

Shanster
11-13-2013, 09:35 AM
Thanks for the input! Unfortunately, I dont even have a driveway! In my searching, 800-900 has been a fair price for all in. Also, all of the kits I have seen them show them as optional items...hmm. Either way, I think I'm going to have those replaced too.

On a scale from 1-10 how difficult are we talking? Like an 8? (and not a phil 8, a normal person's 8...a phil 8 is like a normal person's 13)

M0E7
11-13-2013, 09:45 AM
Unfortunately, I do not have the space to perform my own TB change so I'm bringing it to a shop. They quoted me a good price of $895 (parts and labor). I followed up asking if thermostat, accessory drive belt tensioner and idler pulley were included and he replied that they were not. I understand that these are OPTIONAL (based on kits from our vendors), but should I go ahead and have them replaced anyway?
He made it sound like the thermostat really isn't necessary if it is working fine but did not comment on the drive belt tensioner or idler pulley.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

I changed out my accessory belt tensioner and idler pulley because they (probably just the pulley) were making noise.. Honestly, they can be changed separately from the TB job in about 15 minutes, so leave them be if the shop adds more than 1/2 hour labor. The tensioner has to come off anyway for the TB job, and the pulley is just one bolt; in reality it is just one bolt more than they would have been doing.

IMO, the thermostat is of a similar difficulty to change during or separately from the TB job (I had to do both), but it can be tricky the first time and without a driveway. I would pay them to do the thermostat and save money on the accessory belt parts.

I did not find any kits that included the accessory belt tensioner and idler puller, and the ones including the thermostat were priced slightly higher to reflect that.

tankdeer
11-13-2013, 09:49 AM
Thanks for the input! Unfortunately, I dont even have a driveway! In my searching, 800-900 has been a fair price for all in. Also, all of the kits I have seen them show them as optional items...hmm. Either way, I think I'm going to have those replaced too.

On a scale from 1-10 how difficult are we talking? Like an 8? (and not a phil 8, a normal person's 8...a phil 8 is like a normal person's 13)

Difficulty is like a 5. Intimidation is a 10. In reality it's not difficult, just intimidating. Thermostat is a must because you need to remove 80% of the same shit to do it later if you wait. Might as well do it now. Accessory belt is provided in most kits, the tensioners usually are not (TB tensions are, just not accessory)

A-BlacK_MambA-4
11-13-2013, 12:54 PM
Difficulty is like a 5. Intimidation is a 10. In reality it's not difficult, just intimidating. Thermostat is a must because you need to remove 80% of the same shit to do it later if you wait. Might as well do it now. Accessory belt is provided in most kits, the tensioners usually are not (TB tensions are, just not accessory)

Tank hit it right on the head. It's not that it's difficult at all, more intimidating than anything. I'd say like Tank, 5-6 on the difficulty scale.

martinofski
11-26-2013, 04:35 AM
The hardest part for me when doing it was to make sure I had all the tools and parts before I touched the car. Just because I was alone for the weekend and no access to other car.

For the regular parts, I usually shop on Rockauto.com, they have some good price compared to local store in Canada, just need to buy good quality, not the cheapest.

I agree it isn't a such hard job, but it is a job that involve time. was a 5-6 for me, mostly because of the time...at one point, you want to get the thing finished, more when everything is disassembled. I am not a car mechanic, but wasn't a first try either at car maintenance.

Also, a tip for people with a garage : I had a polythene roll laying around, so I just installed it on the floor, roll the car over before stating the work. Keep that floor clean. Wipe the polythene clean after or trash it.

fly300kts
11-26-2013, 07:00 PM
and not a phil 8, a normal person's 8...a phil 8 is like a normal person's 13

LOL !!!!!

Phil

papadelogan
12-29-2013, 12:01 PM
Question for those of us that are doing this because the timing belt broke:

What marks are available for me to use to ensure that I get the timing belt installed/timed correctly?

mec
12-29-2013, 12:24 PM
Question for those of us that are doing this because the timing belt broke:

What marks are available for me to use to ensure that I get the timing belt installed/timed correctly?

THe metal that goes on the back of the cam sprocket has a mark on it, Align it with the cam sprocket mark.

The crank does not have a mark. You have to put the plastic or metal timing cover on, that has a mark. Then you put on the serpentine crank pulley, and that has a mark on them, align them together. Alternatively you can remove spark plug #1 and put a long screwdriver down the hole, rotate the engine until you find TDC.

The_Ocho
12-29-2013, 03:46 PM
Gonna be doing my belt tomorrow, totally looking forward to it

papadelogan
12-29-2013, 05:15 PM
Phil confirmed that there is a mark on the harmonic balancer/dampener and a corresponding mark on the metal plate behind it. Once the dampener is removed you lose those reference marks, so be like Phil and make new marks the moment you get the dampener off and confirm that you did not rotate the crank.

One other thing I did before removing the dampener; I made sure my timing marks were aligned, and then used a straight edge and a "White Out" pen to make a mark on the fully across the face of the crank gear bolt (the 12pt 19mm one) before removing the dampener. (see pic below)

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv148/papadelogan/audi/BrokenTimingBelt/IMG_20131230_115713_zpso3ot69l0.jpg

Thanks to this writeup as well as Martin's time, tools, and knowledge, my beloved A4 should be rejoining the fray by tomorrow afternoon.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

papadelogan
12-30-2013, 06:57 PM
I'm hoping to contribute to the DIY nature of this thread, with focus on those CRAPASS ALUMINUM dampener bolts.

4 came out smoothly. 6mm hex bit on the IR impact and they spun out nicely. The last two... UGH. Stripped.

My solution was to use a chisel and "trim off" some of the head of the bolt on the edge closest to the crank gear bolt. You need to get some room in there. Then, I did the same thing but on the opposite side of that same bolt. Now... time for retribution. I took an 11mm impact grade "bolt out" socket and hammered it down on to the bolt head. REALLY get that puppy seated down on it..... then pop the impact gun on it, presss IN and pull the trigger.

There are other methods, but this was mine and it worked. Hopefully you'll never need to do what I did... it's a pain and time consuming. Everything else... not so bad really.

fly300kts
01-02-2014, 06:37 AM
I'm hoping to contribute to the DIY nature of this thread, with focus on those CRAPASS ALUMINUM dampener bolts.

4 came out smoothly. 6mm hex bit on the IR impact and they spun out nicely. The last two... UGH. Stripped.

My solution was to use a chisel and "trim off" some of the head of the bolt on the edge closest to the crank gear bolt. You need to get some room in there. Then, I did the same thing but on the opposite side of that same bolt. Now... time for retribution. I took an 11mm impact grade "bolt out" socket and hammered it down on to the bolt head. REALLY get that puppy seated down on it..... then pop the impact gun on it, presss IN and pull the trigger.

There are other methods, but this was mine and it worked. Hopefully you'll never need to do what I did... it's a pain and time consuming. Everything else... not so bad really.

The OEM bolts are really soft material and the head can be easily drilled. Then, you can removed the remaining shank by hand

Phil

leftovers
02-08-2014, 08:27 AM
I'm feeling frustrated with my timing belt install. I followed ClownTrigger's advice on page 2 and just pulled everything away from the car enough to get access to the timing belt area. I was doing pretty well until I stripped 2 bolts on the crank pulley. That now means I have to pull the entire front end off (drain coolant, evac a/c, etc) in order to gain access and drill those crappy bolts out. And right now neither of the radiator hoses want to come off, which leaves me stuck. I was hoping for better success with this project.

papadelogan
02-08-2014, 08:43 AM
The crank pulley bolts are a PITA. I put my 'solution' up in Phil's Timing Belt DIY thread. Basically, chisel off some of the head (closest to the inner bolt and outer edge) then I pounded on an impact grade easy out socket and hit it with the air gun

diond
02-08-2014, 02:09 PM
The crank pulley bolts are a PITA. I put my 'solution' up in Phil's Timing Belt DIY thread. Basically, chisel off some of the head (closest to the inner bolt and outer edge) then I pounded on an impact grade easy out socket and hit it with the air gun

I did the timing belt last week on my B7 and had no problems with those bolts. I removed those with air gun. You have to make sure that your triple square bit is correctly inserted inside before. So i confirm that with air gun, it is perfect.

papadelogan
02-08-2014, 02:42 PM
Mine were not triple square, only hex socket bolts.

fly300kts
02-08-2014, 03:18 PM
Mine were not triple square, only hex socket bolts.

If they were triple square, its because the timing belt was already replaced or some work was done to the pulley.
Original were HEX and Audi upgraded them to triple square

Phil

diond
02-08-2014, 03:44 PM
If they were triple square, its because the timing belt was already replaced or some work was done to the pulley.
Original were HEX and Audi upgraded them to triple square

Phil

That is very interesting. I am not aware of any works done on the car by audi, except the intake cam, hpfp. But there was a previous owner for this car....

fly300kts
02-08-2014, 03:46 PM
That is very interesting. I am not aware of any works done on the car by audi, except the intake cam, hpfp. But there was a previous owner for this car....

Well, I can tell you that in 2007, they were HEX bolts and not triple square

Phil

diond
02-08-2014, 04:05 PM
Well, I can tell you that in 2007, they were HEX bolts and not triple square

Phil

And I trust you completely about that. On another point, when I changed the TB , I did not replace the serpentine belt and forgot to mark the rotation. So I put back the belt in place. Bentley manual is telling that reversing a used serpentine belt cause cause break of the timing belt. What do you think about that? I would expect that it could break the serp. Belt, not the TB

tankdeer
02-08-2014, 07:21 PM
I've done timing belt jobs on three different B7's. Two 2008's and a 2006. All three had triple square, and all three came out fine. The new bolts were all hex but the OEM were not

mec
02-08-2014, 08:04 PM
I've done timing belt jobs on three different B7's. Two 2008's and a 2006. All three had triple square, and all three came out fine. The new bolts were all hex but the OEM were not

I completed a tb job on a 2007, and a 2006 and they had triple square bolts, but my car is a 2006, and had hex bolts, my 2005.5 also had hex bolts, and I've seen 2 other 2007's with hex bolts. I think its not about the year it may have been where they were assembled, or some other arbitrary clue like if it has a red t or a silver t

LINDW4LL
02-08-2014, 08:23 PM
I did the timing belt last weekend and of course had the stripped crank pulley bolt issue (they were allen/hex bolts- car is an '06). I didn't think to check this thread. Chiseling the head or drilling them out sounded like a pain in the ass.

Easiest fix: Hammer a 12mm socket over the bolts and reverse with air gun. All 6 were stripped, and all 6 came out instantly with the socket trick. (Thanks Steve!)

fly300kts
02-10-2014, 07:55 PM
Did quite few TB and doing another one this WE on a 2007 who has HEX bolts
Nice trick about the 12 mm socket
If they are too much of a pain, I just drill the head. Metal is really soft and since so thread lock is used, you can removed the remaining threaded part by hand

Phil

Latin Audi
03-11-2014, 05:59 AM
Am curious of everyone's opinion on the below comment? If I understand him correctly, I do not see the logic in marking the rotation on the dampner pulley. Only rotation you should worry about is the cam and crank ensuring they are in sync.

Please correct me if I am wrong.



And I trust you completely about that. On another point, when I changed the TB , I did not replace the serpentine belt and forgot to mark the rotation. So I put back the belt in place. Bentley manual is telling that reversing a used serpentine belt cause cause break of the timing belt. What do you think about that? I would expect that it could break the serp. Belt, not the TB

diond
03-11-2014, 03:12 PM
Am curious of everyone's opinion on the below comment? If I understand him correctly, I do not see the logic in marking the rotation on the dampner pulley. Only rotation you should worry about is the cam and crank ensuring they are in sync.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

I wrote to mark the belt itself, not the pulley. So when you put back the belt in place, you place it in the same position (rotation meaning).

Latin Audi
03-11-2014, 05:28 PM
I need some advice. I installed the tensioner and then wrapped the belt around. However, when I went to turn the allen on the tensioner, the cam sprocket moved a bit. How do I bring it back? Am I ok to take the belt off and turn the crank to get it back to my markings?

tankdeer
03-11-2014, 06:18 PM
Yup, that'll be fine

Latin Audi
03-12-2014, 04:14 PM
Yup, that'll be fine

Thanks for confirming.

One thing I still don't see the reasoning behind is marking the dampner pulley. Once the pulley is off and you take off the bottom plate to expose the crank sprocket, you can then turn until the cam marks line up and then make your marks on the crank to coincide with the top timing. So why do you need any kind of markings on the dampner if the cam and crank move in unison??