Transformation: Silver Arrow->Silver Bullet [Archive]

gli_ryan

11-06-2009, 06:53 AM

So I'm starting to the build for my project. Goals will be comfortable summer daily, and to put down a 450-500 whp with e85. It currently has 180,000 miles on the motor. I bought it with 147,000 miles two years ago. It started stock, then chipped, then gtrs, now this.

Building the 2008cc, obd1 aba crank, stroked and bored motor. The normal 2.0l build. Going to build the head so it can rev to 8000-8500 rpms.

Going to use probably a log side mount t3 manifold. I'd love to find a good, used SPA, but don't know.... And attach a Precision billet 60/57 to it with vband exhaust. Custom exhaust, 3.25 downpipe to 3in straight pipe and have cut outs to mufflers. So the primary mode will be no mufflers, then will be able to quiet it down by shutting off the straight pipe. I don't want to do a dump, I think it sounds like ass 90% of the time. But having the pipe all the way back sounds like a spaceship. Which is good.

Intercooler, wastegate, valve train components, clutch, and other needed items have yet to be determined. So feedback and thoughts would be sweet. I'm not sure if I'm going to need a twin disk clutch, or something different.

The ecu is up in the air as well. I'm leaning towards Lugtronic, universal or plug n play is the option with that. Possibly AEM however. I'm going mafless. And it's also going to have the e85 and gas tune's. I'd love for a switch on the fly option....but not sure if that is actually possible. *Maybe a Tapp tune, but I want to do this the way I want it the first time.

The motor is coming out this weekend since I have the GTRS sold. So thats going to start the project. Hopefully order the motor parts next week and get that put together.

Start the fun [wrench]
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2453/3926625079_0d3b5003e7.jpg

a4mafia

11-06-2009, 07:25 AM

sounds like a fun lil project. should be exciting

B5A4Kevin

11-06-2009, 08:12 AM

were you not satisfied with the gtrs?

gli_ryan

11-06-2009, 09:50 AM

I was not totally satisfied no. Also my plans changed from year round (including winter duty) to only a summer car. I've got a mk1 for winter now :) next year I'm going to try to get a 4000cs for winter because this mk1 is in pretty good shape.

I'll be heading home around 6 to rip the front end off. 6 more hours

Jake39454

11-06-2009, 09:57 AM

Sounds like I have a LOT of what you need... I have a used SPA setup that I just bead blasted. Also have a 058 block that has been clearenced for an OBD1 ABA crank (which is for sale too) and already bored to 83mm. I can do a package setup where you can buy the manifold, lines, downpipe, block, crank, oil shaft and Wiseco pistons (83mm, coated skirts, tool steel pins) for a certain price. I'm keeping my EDM Pauter rods unless you really want to pay for those.

Nebone

11-06-2009, 10:35 AM

I support what he said ^

gli_ryan

11-06-2009, 10:55 AM

I'm thinking that would be cool, but shipping would be a terrible thing to overcome.

Castor Troy

11-06-2009, 11:07 AM

shipping shouldnt be more than 100-150, which depending on the deal he cuts you (which i imagine will be pretty good) it sounds 100% worth it.

Jake39454

11-06-2009, 05:33 PM

PM replied sir [;)]

gli_ryan

12-13-2009, 05:03 PM

alright. heres the biggest update :)

hx35 sitting next to the k03

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/hx35.jpg

gli_ryan

12-13-2009, 07:04 PM

so also I have purchased a set of inconel exhaust valves, rosten light weight lifters, titanium retainers, high rate valve springs, and a big bore head gasket and kit. The whole head is at the machine shop getting assembled and decked. Should have that back in a month or something.

Next month, or whenever I find any in a fs thread, I'll be ordering 83mm pistons, rods and assorted arp fasteners for the block. Then that whole thing will be sent to the machine shop. I need to get a clutch soon (and picked out) as well so that can all be balanced to the motor when its done.

the headliner will be coming out next week to get redone. I need to work on my wheels too. ugh so much stuff going on with finals. Nothing will get done until they are over with.

I've got a box full of clean parts too thanks to a bead blaster :)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/photo.jpg

A4Rob

12-17-2009, 02:55 PM

Looks great Ryan... Nice turbo!

gli_ryan

12-17-2009, 03:39 PM

Thanks Rob! It just got back from the bead blaster yesterday.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo.jpg

I picked up paint for some engine parts, I still need to order the paint for the valve cover. Should I paint the compressor housing? This is going to be driven daily in the summer, so I was thinking that its going to get disgusting as raw aluminum pretty quickly.

Coopa

12-17-2009, 04:34 PM

I now have two Holset 35 turbo threads to be watching [up]

ForceFed

12-17-2009, 09:26 PM

very nice man. if ya need any help with anything let me know. i would be more then happy to come up there. then you could ride in my car with your old turbo ahha. lookin good though

Lou_B5

12-18-2009, 03:26 AM

Sexy wheels!!! Yay for another strokin goodness and silver FTW!
Good luck bro!

Who said the B5 big power builds were dead and that the "B6 is where it's at"??? [>_<]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kLBjdxVKbI

A4DRIVR

12-18-2009, 04:30 AM

gli_ryan

12-19-2009, 09:22 PM

haha, thanks guys. Yeah the wheels are undergoing treatment as well :)

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0238.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0239.jpg

motor mounts and intake mani. I painted the valve cover too!

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/IMG_0254.jpg

I'm still chipping away and the huge list of things to get done on this project...

forcefed, you know how I said I'm terrible with names, well I forgot yours. But I'll definitely let you know. It'll be March or so when I get the motor together and ready to be put in. So a couple months bud. How's the gtrs treating you?

iwearpro

12-19-2009, 09:58 PM

I know its late and all but I might have a good eye when it comes to my Powerstrokes,but is that a Powerstroke turbo?Im actually taking one off and doing a larger turbo upgrade on my stroke. :)

gli_ryan

12-20-2009, 12:14 AM

negative. its off a cummins ;)
I don't know what your powerstroke has, but the holset's come on the cummins

ForceFed

12-20-2009, 03:33 PM

i thought powerstrokes had garrett turbos. idonno though. lookin good ryan. what you doin to the wheels? poishin them? painting? what color?

gli_ryan

12-20-2009, 04:07 PM

I'm going to polish the shit out of them. But its a ton of work...and its cold as hell outside.

B6T

12-21-2009, 06:55 AM

i thought powerstrokes had garrett turbos.

They have a weird reverse rotation Garrett turbo. I've been looking for one for my RX-7 for a while... the Holset HE351 I have is far too small.

I need to get a clutch soon (and picked out) as well so that can all be balanced to the motor when its done.

Not sure what you mean by 'balanced to the motor' but at the shop I used to work at, we would send the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate along with the rods and pistons to the machine shop for balancing, so everything can be balanced together *before* the crank, rods, etc are assembled into the block.

gli_ryan

12-21-2009, 07:26 AM

thats what i meant. i suppose i should have said internals then.

Coopa

12-21-2009, 08:58 AM

If you don't mind me asking, what do you think you're final build cost is going to be on this?

gli_ryan

12-21-2009, 04:39 PM

Motor parts - $2000
motor work - $1000
ecu - $1500
turbo - $300
intercooler - $500
clutch - $800
mounts - $300
t-belt kit - $270
gaskets - $150
extras - Up to $1000
probably forgetting a few things that should be covered in the last $1000

ish I just added that up. Over $6000

Coopa

12-21-2009, 04:55 PM

Thanks [up]

A4Rob

12-21-2009, 05:49 PM

You misc expenses at $1000 is far too low. I tell you this because I know first hand that hardware store runs adds up very fast. :-)

gli_ryan

12-21-2009, 07:07 PM

Silence! I don't want to hear this!!! I was hoping I was over budgeting....damn....

Lou_B5

12-22-2009, 01:39 AM

Damn if you can build a high reving stroker for 6k then you sir are the shit! I see you got some used parts in there but still. I think you are short by about at least 6k even doing the work yourself.

A4DRIVR

12-22-2009, 05:30 AM

^^I'm with Lou... you're a better man than me, cause I thought I was doin it on the cheap, and well... check the build thread [o_o]

Either way... keep up the good work. I can't wait for all of the new BAT B5's to hit the road and start postin up some more vid's and pic's. That includes myself!

gli_ryan

12-22-2009, 12:40 PM

I'll break down the money situation so everyone can see what I've included. And I looked at it again, its going to be around $7,500.

Well I got lightweight lifters, valve high rate springs, titanium retainers, and inconel exhaust valves for $650.

The internals: rods, pistons, main studs, and head studs for $1300.

The shop is estimating $500-600 for the head work. Thats a 3 angle valve job, install all parts, exhaust valve guides and such. I'm not sure yet if all the valve guides need to be changed. They are going to look into it.

They are estimating $500 for the block work. Thats hot tanking, boring, honing, balancing, and I think they said they would assemble. That is not including bearings and such. They did say that $500 might be a high estimate. We'll say $600 because they didn't quote me on bearings.

So, the head is going to cost upwards of $1250.
the block work and internals upwards of $2100.
Total of $3350-ish.
thats the motor

I'm going to overestimate all these part in $50 and $100 increments

now i need an ecu. I'm hoping to go with a lugtronic PnP. $1500.

wideband and (EDIT) gauge $200

newer version 5 pin coils $150

intercooler and piping (ebay) $500

oil lines $150

bov and wastegate $350

clutch and flywheel (custom, this is a high estimate) $900

motor mounts $400

timing belt kit $300

gaskets $150

exhaust manifold (not sure, but I think I'm going to use an ebay ATP) $150

all exhaust bends and pipe $400

well, I added that up and that was $8500. And thats with overestimating on just about everything. So my $6,000 estimate was pretty low. Sorry about that.

Let me know what I've forgotten and I'll add it.

nunya

12-22-2009, 02:55 PM

now i need an ecu. I'm hoping to go with a lugtronic PnP. $1500.

wideband and controller $200

The Lugtronic ECU already has a wideband controller on it. You just need the sensor and a display for the dash. It has a MAF and EGT controller/sensor too. Add the EGT sensor to your list, if you so desire. How do you paln to do boost control? Add a MAC solenoid or a Halman MBC. I have an extra MAC.

What year car?

Also add:
Snub mount, tranny mounts, diff mounts, bigger brakes,

--dillon

gli_ryan

12-22-2009, 03:11 PM

its a 99.5. I forgot about the built in controller, but thats why everything is overestimated, that and I did that list in like 5 minutes while talking to friends about school.

the snub mount is included with motor mounts. I haven't looked into the diff mounts yet.

I've got a nice mbc, Halman which I see you use. Already have a nice Defi boost gauge.

I'll probably do an EGT setup at some point. Maybe not this first time through.

Brakes are a must because all my pads are completely gone and all the rotors are shot. I'm going with the a8 upgrade. Thats not on the list because I don't consider that a necessity for a running turbo setup.

Lou_B5

12-22-2009, 04:17 PM

That's cool I figured.
What injectors and fuel pump are you going with?

gli_ryan

12-22-2009, 04:55 PM

At a minimum I'm going to need 1,000's. I want to get 1,600's though. I haven't looked to hard into them yet though to decide. For 500-600hp on corn what size injectors are needed?

And I'm going to go with the Bosch 044 pump. But I haven't yet decided on how to mount it yet, and theres no way in hell I'm going to pay what 034 wants for the pump. I don't know how they can decide to sell the pump for $100 over the price everywhere else. Thats nice they offer it in a direct drop in option, for another $125...Thats the price of a Magnafuel pump when thats all done! Which can support 2,000hp on gas.

SO, what size injectors am I going to need? and is there a downfall to having too big of injectors? And what are my fuel pump options for either mounting the 044 pump inline or intank, and is there any other good options out there?

Lou_B5

12-22-2009, 06:28 PM

Are you going to run corn all the time?
You will prob need 1,600 at least. I would consult with your corn tuner on that though.

gli_ryan

12-22-2009, 08:27 PM

I was looking back at past emails with my friend Brian, he said he ran out of fuel at 450 crank with 1600's, a 255 intank and an 044 under the hood of his talon. So the 1600's are not going to be enough...

ForceFed

12-23-2009, 08:44 AM

damn thats crazy that you need that much more fuel just to run e85. i know its not as much btu rating but damn

gli_ryan

12-30-2009, 04:49 PM

So I just dropped off the valve seals and shit for the head. They had to remove all the valve guides because they were all bad....So this bill is going up like another $200-300. I hope it doesn't cost more than like $700 to get it back.

Also have the money for the internals! Just need to figure out a truck situation (selling the rabbit for one) and then I'll order up the internals.

Wheel progress is really slow! But I've made it through one wheel of the first grit of sandpaper, almost. I've got some more drill work to do on it though before I can say its finished with the first grit.

Decided on exhaust, 3.5 in mandrel straight pipe [:)]

ForceFed

12-30-2009, 05:22 PM

sweet jebus. that will sound good. how much you sellin the rabbit for? lol

gli_ryan

12-30-2009, 06:19 PM

I'm selling it for $600, what I've got into it. But there are like 3 people that want it pretty bad...so it'll be gone before I even get a chance to post it up for sale lol.

I've got some questions that I need answered!
Are the main studs totally necessary? Has anyone tried not doing the main studs? And what are the problems with the stock bolts? After talking with my engine builder I decided against the billet main caps. He has never seen a need to put them in because if the stock cast caps are going to break, and you fix that, the bolts strip out of the cast block instead.

Clutches.... Are twin disks able to hold up to daily driving usage and last without breaking down and needing rebuilds every few thousand miles? Which ones are better? What clutch is best suited for a potentially 500whp car?

I feel like I'm forgetting something with this whole thing.... and cant pin-point it....

A4DRIVR

12-30-2009, 08:46 PM

So I just dropped off the valve seals and shit for the head. They had to remove all the valve guides because they were all bad....So this bill is going up like another $200-300. I hope it doesn't cost more than like $700 to get it back.

And this is how it begins... $100 more... $200 more...!!!

I had all of the exhaust valve guides replaced in my head when it was rebuilt (they were worn out). Once it was all said and done, I think it only cost me about $250 for the assembly (w/o cams installed). And that price didn't include any parts... I supplied those myself.

A4DRIVR

12-30-2009, 08:58 PM

I've got some questions that I need answered!
Are the main studs totally necessary? Has anyone tried not doing the main studs? And what are the problems with the stock bolts?

I am running OEM caps and main bolts and plan on ~400whp. Which should be high 400's at the crank. I have spoke with a reputable tuner whose has built multiple engines producing more power than my plan using the OEM parts with ZERO issues.

Clutches.... Are twin disks able to hold up to daily driving usage and last without breaking down and needing rebuilds every few thousand miles? Which ones are better? What clutch is best suited for a potentially 500whp car?

From what I have read, twin discs are race style setups and chatter a bunch at idle, and are basically like an on-off switch. I say be careful here... If you want it to be tolerable as a DD, you are going to have to give up something in leu of comfort.

A4Rob

12-30-2009, 11:52 PM

You should not have any probelms selling the rabbit on EW. Mk1 FTW there.

Oh, and I have an oil return line for you. I'll call you tomorrow about it. I am coming up to Duluth on the 1st

gli_ryan

12-31-2009, 06:28 AM

Should I purchase new OEM bolts? The builder was questioning the need for the studs because it will then the caps will all need to be honed. Which he can do, but again costs more money. He also didn't really see why I needed them in general...

I know, I see the head bill reaching 800 or 900 since they are doing everything. I don't have the tools to do the springs...

I was looking at the 240mm Spec clutches. I think I'll end up with one of them. They offer a lot of different options to hold a lot of power. Pricing, again more than originally planned [rolleyes]

Yeah Rob the bunny isn't even likely to make it on the forum. There are just too many people up here that want it. Which is good for me [:)]

Sweet! Thanks Rob! I've got some questions as well.

ForceFed

12-31-2009, 07:24 AM

iam one of them that want the rabbit hahaha put me on the list as number 4 ha

gli_ryan

01-01-2010, 12:26 AM

Will do!

I've got a line on an aluminum, 11lb clutchmaster flywheel for cheap, with clutch... but I don't want to destroy daily driving capabilities.... Will that for sure happen with it? Or should I wait and spend the extra coin on a steel one?

20vpower

01-01-2010, 03:37 PM

clutchmasters is doing a 240mm clutch as well now too

gli_ryan

01-01-2010, 06:13 PM

Yeah that's what I'm talking about. Is an 11lb aluminum flywheel going to suck to daily? Does anyone have one or exerience with one? My other option is a 15 or 14lb steel one, I don't know what it is. I'm thinking that 3 or 4lb difference isn't going to be a huge deal. But I don't have any experience with it

gli_ryan

01-04-2010, 07:53 AM

Well, I'm going with the wiseco 9:1 and IE rod setup.

Getting the aluminum 240mm fx400 6 puck clutchmaster.

Probably ordering the head studs, and maybe the main studs at the same time. I haven't decided on whether or not I'm going to use the main studs or just stay with the stock bolts.... Thoughts?

And I'm also contemplating running the Walbro 255hp (high pressure) fuel pump. It flows a lot more fuel at the high pressure than the regular 255lph. Does anyone know if the 255hp will drop in place of the regular 255lph in the atp walbro in tank fuel pump kit?

A4Rob

01-04-2010, 08:03 AM

Well, I'm going with the wiseco 9:1 and IE rod setup.

Getting the aluminum 240mm fx400 6 puck clutchmaster.

Probably ordering the head studs, and maybe the main studs at the same time. I haven't decided on whether or not I'm going to use the main studs or just stay with the stock bolts.... Thoughts?

IMO, go with main studs also. They are not that expensive, and with the turbo you plan on running you are going to need all the strength in the motor you can get.

Sorry about not calling you back this weekend. I was with the GF and we were running all over the state visiting people.

A4DRIVR

01-04-2010, 08:22 AM

You know... I've looked around, and I've not found any instances where a DD high HP 1.8T has broken a main cap bolt. I'm running the OEM bolts in the mains, and plan on 7500~8000 PRM rev limits with a 400 whp goal.

I'm just sayin...

gli_ryan

01-04-2010, 08:23 AM

Thats quite alright. I didn't remember if I had left a message before the one I know I left, so if I left two it was not on purpose.

Yeah I'm probably going to get them. The machinist wanted me to be sure that I wanted them because he basically said I had to get it line honed/bored then because the studs can move the caps a little.

That is a very good point, and I've found the same thing...But that doesn't mean stretching them is out of the question...I mean it shouldn't happen but maybe its possible. I haven't ordered anything yet, but might end up going with the main studs.

gli_ryan

01-15-2010, 09:24 AM

So I've now received my rods and pistons. I have only had a little time to start getting the block ready for clearancing and it appears that the bottom of the cylinder walls on number 1 need to be ground back. It seems like the IE rods are going to be hitting the sides of the cylinder. Is that the case? Its IE rods in an aeb block. Thats the only cylinder I've tried so far.

ALSO: the block hasn't been bored to 83mm yet. Maybe the 2mm or whatever will do it. But to me it doesn't appear so

ForceFed

01-15-2010, 11:19 AM

hmm i think i remember reading something about grinding the block..but i think that was for the long stroke guys...so idonno someone will know that is more edumacated lol

gli_ryan

01-15-2010, 02:19 PM

Well Mike Hood just emailed me back and said after the block is bored everything clears except where the side of the block away from the IM shaft needs to be cleared for the rod caps. So I'll just be marking the side and grinding away.

gli_ryan

01-16-2010, 02:22 PM

I got the block all clearanced now. It took the use of stone bits on a die grinder. And it went pretty good. I'll be bringing it to the shop monday :)

Hoping to have it ready by mid march now.

gli_ryan

01-18-2010, 08:39 PM

Ran into another problem I didn't anticipate. I didn't realize that the aba crank needed its original trigger wheel. My crank didn't come with its original trigger wheel. The aeb trigger wheel does not fit the aba crank. I think I may have found an aba wheel already anyways.

BUT, the block and the internals are all in the shop now. I'll know later this week the timeframe of when I'll get it all back.

Should be ordering lugtronic when I find out more about the motor situation. Getting the ATP walbro drop in kit this week locally. Still need motor mounts, oil lines, and to figure out how I'm going to put all this mess together.

Euro-Tuner

01-18-2010, 10:54 PM

if your still wondering, I am running a 9lbs aluminum LWFW as a DD and it is fine.

gli_ryan

01-20-2010, 03:19 PM

Thanks. That makes me feel at least a little better.

So, I'm getting my motor back in mere days. What is everyone torquing the internals too?

gli_ryan

01-25-2010, 06:15 PM

Alright fellas, I'm still wondering what internal torque specs you are building motors too. And also, the aba that I'm getting in a couple days does not have a crank position sensor on it, at least it looks that way. I need a trigger wheel off the crank for mine. Do all aba's have a trigger wheel with no crank position sensor? Or am I missing something.

Lou_B5

01-28-2010, 07:56 PM

thanks for buying my Tial 44mm valve and for helping me pay for my speeding tickets! Last day to pay is tomorrow. phew.

Euro-Tuner

01-28-2010, 08:36 PM

Alright fellas, I'm still wondering what internal torque specs you are building motors too.

there is a really good 4 part video on youtube I think Jake posted, it'll help you TONS if your assembling your own internals.

Do all aba's have a trigger wheel with no crank position sensor? Or am I missing something.

what are you asking exactly? you should be using your position sensor in your block and the trigger wheel from an ABA, hope that helps.

Euro-Tuner

01-28-2010, 08:37 PM

here is part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYIUylUW9I)

gli_ryan

01-29-2010, 09:49 AM

Yeah no problem about the gate. Thats one more thing I get to drop off the list. I'm almost down to just a couple things!

Thanks for the link about the internals. I'll hopefully be assembling this weekend. I got the trigger wheel situation figured out. I was looking for a sensor and wasn't finding one on the aba I was receiving. So I was worried that maybe not all of them had the sensor. Something I didn't think was logical. But after tearing it down I was very relieved to see one in there. But yeah I knew I needed the aba trigger wheel, but I didn't see a sensor that would go with it. Which I now see. All is well and figured out. Thanks for the tips though.

Crispy222

01-29-2010, 10:06 PM

Subscribed my friend.

gli_ryan

01-30-2010, 12:56 AM

:)

So I got the block and internals back today. Everything balanced except the flywheel. That, I'm hoping, gets done tomorrow thanks to an amazing machinist willing to come in on the weekend. I found out that I had to clearance the block some more, the rods hit the lower cylinder on both sides [mad]. I had to deal with that tonight with another stone bit. Now the block will need to be hot tanked again. Also the IM shaft gear isn't narrow enough yet, close but no cigar.

I just realized my gasket kit did NOT come with main seals. fuck. I'll need to order them and hurry up and wait. Maybe a local parts store has some though. There are a couple other things that need sorting as well. Hopefully more news to come tomorrow.

BUT, things learned today. Wiseco pistons, IE rods, and an aba crank require quite a bit of clearancing. Both on the block wall and the cylinders. The rods weren't very well balanced, they are now though thanks to a great machine shop. The machinist didn't like the wiseco paperwork, he said it was vague on critical information. They came with an extra ring that we can't figure out what its for. The piston in the 4 cylinder hits the oil squirter easily, needs at least 1 copper washer and the oil squirter block shaved a bit. The IM shaft gear needs to be cut almost in half to let a rod clear it. And its cold as crap out up here.

Euro-Tuner

01-30-2010, 01:03 AM

when your putting your new trigger wheel on make sure you use Red Loctite, but don't use just any, they make a specific brand that will work well under high temps and will not be affected by oil. I'll get the model # when I get home, its in my garage.

trust me, the last thing you want is to skimp when attaching that trigger wheel.

Mike, Jake, and I all had our wheels sheer and its not fun...

gli_ryan

01-30-2010, 08:24 AM

That would suck.... a lot. So I'll do that. Ugh, I hate not being able to get what I wanted done. I knew this would happen too. And it's probably going to happen again the next time too.

What is the deal with the IM shaft. Does it have bearings that can be removed and replaced?

A4DRIVR

01-30-2010, 05:10 PM

Ugh, I hate not being able to get what I wanted done. I knew this would happen too. And it's probably going to happen again the next time too.

That was the theme for my build... take something apart, determine the parts you didn't have or needed, then order and wait.

Don't worry it will all eventually come together...

gli_ryan

01-30-2010, 06:37 PM

currently i'm trying to figure out the main bearings. i have what seems to be an extra bearing with an oil opening. so 6 with oil holes and grooves, and 4 without. what gives? all the main caps are solid and doesn't have any reason to have an opening on a bearing for oil

A4DRIVR

01-30-2010, 06:43 PM

"oil ring on bearing #4 to improve oil flow to the connecting rod bearing" from ECS website.

gli_ryan

01-30-2010, 08:45 PM

cool.

putting stuff together now

gli_ryan

02-04-2010, 03:06 PM

You know what I hate? Companies that see opportunities to overcharge the shit out of you when no one else offers a part. I.E. the oil pan adapter thing. I wanted one to go right to a male AN fitting. HS has one for $40, plus $10.35 for shipping. Thanks guys.

So today I started the process of getting oil lines together. Looks like the total is going to be around $200 for them all.

importcraz

02-04-2010, 10:26 PM

ok I don't know much about audi fly wheels but on most of my hondas, chevys, nissans, blah blah. I usually like a stock flywheel shaved and balanced. To light and will be a bitch for dd and alum f/w for dd is not idea... Just my .02.. Running a stage 4 6 puck sprung on a lightened stock flywheel is still a pain to dd.

gli_ryan

02-05-2010, 05:58 AM

which is why I was worried. Oh well. I saved $500 just to go with the aluminum one. I can handle one summer with it and if its too difficult I'll get a steel one for next summer. The steel is only 2lbs heavier anyways... I'm sure I'll get used to it.

gli_ryan

02-06-2010, 05:24 AM

ugh, my "full" engine gasket kit isn't full at all! I need several gaskets still.

And I need a new oil pan. Mine is cracked from being low... So does anyone have an oil pan laying around they want to sell? ASAP.

gli_ryan

02-09-2010, 03:42 PM

got in the mail today; lugtronic ecu and wiring harness, 1680cc injectors, wideband sensor, new throwout bearing because the first one was broken, and the BA HS tuning oil pan adaptor that goes right to -10 AN male. Waiting on ECS, since my stuff didn't get shipped a week ago. Well half of it. I did get my brake rotors and carrier adaptors for the a8 rotors. They look sick. Drilled and slotted, front and rear. Waiting on my red stuff pads, new style 4 wire coil packs, coolant tank, and I think a couple other things.

Hoping to get the motor in the car this weekend. But I'm not sure I'll even have time to hardly work on finishing the motor [:(]

A4Rob

02-09-2010, 07:58 PM

$40 for your oil drain flange? The holset is about 2" bolt pattern. I got mine on ebay for $10 or so. ie: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T04E-T04B-T4E-T3-turbo-charger-oil-drian-flange-10an_W0QQitemZ150410674810QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item23052cc27a

From there use a 45* -10AN from Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100013/10002/-1

Get some #10AN braided line..

Then a straight #10: http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/610040/10002/-1

Then your atp oil pan adapter: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-107&Category_Code=VVWOL

That is roughly under $100 for your return line purchasing all new items. I am sure if you search on the tex you could find those pieces even cheaper.

gli_ryan

02-09-2010, 09:41 PM

Instead of the ATP fitting, this one goes in its place. That way I can go directly from the braided line to the fitting without trying to go from the female threads to the line. This way the hard part off the pan is shortest, keeping oil flowing downward and not getting forced back up into the pan if there was a longer adapter section. Otherwise I paid $18 for my holset piece, though I wish I would have found that one with the o-ring, I think the one I got is a gasket type. Oh well. Thanks for the info though, but its all covered now. I'll let you know if I run into any issues again [;)]

And the supply line is going to be about $100 as well. I got two of the fittings that go right to the male -4 AN threads, one for the oil filter housing and one for the turbo. They are the same 12mm x 1.5mm. There's a great shop in West Duluth that is going to assemble them for next to nothing.

MCFLYYY

02-10-2010, 12:32 PM

This is almost a carbon copy of what I want to do with iNsaNiA when I graduate.

Will be following this. [up]

gli_ryan

02-13-2010, 08:34 PM

First off.....AHG!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [headbang][mad]

Attempted to get the flippin motor in today. One hurdle after another, it was like the summer olympics, but in 20 degree weather here. I was getting around and figuring things out. Started with the oil pan. I didn't have a gasket. Talked to Rob and he said stock they used a sealant. Fine, I got some and laid a bead. Then realized the new rear main seal had the wrong threads for the oil pan bolts! REALLY? [evilmad] On the listing pages from ECS, their product it has incorrect information about the flange, why do you guys do that? Now I have an AUG or something rear main. FIX your ads!

I went to Menards and they, for the first time ever, had the correct metric bolt. Cool. I'm a little happier. I suck it up and pull the pan again and reinstall everything. Starting on the clutch. I didn't have a pilot bearing! FML. No one in town has one. I finally accept defeat from the euro gods that must always make crap go south for me whenever I work on something. I realize the motor isn't making it in this weekend, even though it WAS critical it did. [mad]

So, I decide to make the best of this and do something easy, rear brakes. Everything was going fine, AND THEN. The rear carrier bolts that hold the carrier and caliper together, one on EACH side broke. I wanted to kick the car off the jack stands and call the junkyard so bad... Screw that car, I'm pissed right now. I can't see basically anyway I can have it done by the end of March now.

I wonder what failure will happen next. Probably something for the fuel pump, wont fit. This is why I hate working on cars so much. [headbang]

importcraz

02-14-2010, 06:59 AM

man sorry about the crappy weekend. Nothing a cold beer won't fix. But stuff happens, that is the joy of building cars. That's why I moved from heavy weekend work to doining my heavy/ major work during the week. That and I have a grip of part supply that are 24 hours.

MCFLYYY

02-15-2010, 12:42 PM

ForceFed

02-15-2010, 01:31 PM

damn man that blows. sounds like how all of my projects go lol. or everyones projects for that matter. let me know if ya need any help up there. i got alot of days off now work is super slow.

Lou_B5

02-15-2010, 05:59 PM

Dude, hang in there! Good things will come.

A4DRIVR

02-15-2010, 06:24 PM

My build was plagued with the same issues... it really sucks not having aftermarket support/supply locally for european vehicles.

gli_ryan

02-15-2010, 06:44 PM

Thanks guys.... So, should I attempt to fix my caliper carriers, or should I hit up the junkyard or something? I guess it doesn't hurt to try, but crap I don't want to waste hours dicking with something that goes no where.

OK, so more bad things... Went to get a new iphone because mine is cracking, which is covered under warranty. It would have been the second time I've done this. But apparently I needed to register my att warranty that I bought from them when I got the phone. And the closest apple store is 130 miles away. So that didn't happen when I was down in the cities. And now today. I've got this 84 rabbit gti I'm driving for winter. Well I was going to work and just hit gas a little to make it up the 2 mile hill called Duluth when the exhaust fell completely off. Wow, the loudest thing I've ever heard. Instant headache. And those cars are like tin cans, so the sound resonates in there and the whole damn thing vibrates... BUT, that gives me a good excuse to buy that lincoln 140c mig welder I've had my eye on. I'm going to get one tomorrow I think [:)]

Coopa

02-16-2010, 05:07 PM

Winter beater for the win!^

Gotta love that no exhaust airplane sound

A4Rob

02-16-2010, 05:15 PM

just hit gas a little to make it up the 2 mile hill called Duluth when the exhaust fell completely off.

LOL nice Ryan!

gli_ryan

02-17-2010, 03:52 PM

Haha. So, I fixed the exhaust.... by buying a new welder lol. Picked up a new Lincoln 140c with a tank for mig'ing, spool gun for aluminum, and an auto dimming hood. Its a sweet little setup. Welded like poop, because the exhaust was wet. But its staying together.

Picked up the pilot bearing today. Whats the best way to shove that thing in? And, whats the best way to install the motor and tranns as an complete assembly? Because I don't really want to hold it all up completely by the head....

A4Rob

02-17-2010, 08:26 PM

And, whats the best way to install the motor and tranns as an complete assembly? Because I don't really want to hold it all up completely by the head....

Strap around the engine brackets on the block along with both manifolds.

Castor Troy

02-18-2010, 07:59 AM

as far as the pilot bearing goes, i just used a small block of wood and a rubber mallet and pounded it in....

A4DRIVR

02-18-2010, 08:05 AM

I used a socket with an OD just a tiny bit smaller than the pilot bearing... then tapped it in with a hammer being careful to keep the bearing straight.

gli_ryan

02-18-2010, 09:41 AM

alright. i'll be sure to spend some time with this to get it right. How far does it need to go in the crank?

A4DRIVR

02-18-2010, 01:10 PM

Be advised that there is a front and a back to the bearing... I believe you can see a small rubber seal on one side. That should face out.

gli_ryan

02-18-2010, 03:33 PM

got it, check. I looked at my other bearings and could tell. what a pain the pressure plate is without the tool... I'm giving up without it.

EDIT: gave in, bought new caliper carriers. what money [confused]

gli_ryan

02-19-2010, 08:26 PM

beat that beotch! the motor and tranny are in as a whole. Still need to hook up all the other things though. And I forgot about the shifter linkage b.s. If I remember right that thing did not come off until I had moved the motor out a ways to be able to get access to the bolts.... I guess we'll see.

Sales@RAI

02-19-2010, 11:54 PM

well, I added that up and that was $8500. And thats with overestimating on just about everything. So my $6,000 estimate was pretty low. Sorry about that.

Let me know what I've forgotten and I'll add it.

now you have to add like $2k on top of that for stuff you'll forget, it sucks

gli_ryan

02-28-2010, 06:53 PM

So this weekend [:/]
what a pain. The goal was something that I thought would be totally acheivable and then I could do homework the rest of the time. Well, I thought wrong as usual. All I wanted to do was finish getting the tranny mounts on and then secure it and the motor, get the rear brakes and trailing arms done, get the rear of the car off the jack stands and onto the tires/floor, and start my downpipe. I had Friday night through now, Sunday. The transmission stuff went slow, but easy. I took my time. Did that Friday night. Then Saturday morning went and picked up one of these babies and a package of pickle forks to get the rear trailing arms off

http://base1.googlehosted.com/base_media?q=http://www.improvementdirect.com/imagebase/resized/x800/Milwaukeeimages/6180-20-lg.jpg&size=20&dhm=1b8d1aae&hl=en

5.4hp Milwaukee chop saw, can cut up to 5 and 3/8in round stock [:)]

Awesome! Then got home and started on the rear trailing arms. The left went OK, a little bit of a pain. But the right side was the devils advocate. I broke all three forks and didn't get it. Also, the bolt on the inside was a pain. Got a "professional" quality fork today and still couldn't get it. Called my dad up, and he said to hit perpendicular to the joint to oval the hole and it should pop out. Thanks dad! He's the best. So that ended up working. 1 hour down. The next hour I spent trying to get that bolt that holds the inner part on. Ended up bending the weird washer thats attached so I could twist the bolt and break it free. Finally got that to work and got it out. Done.

This morning I had started on my exhaust flange and the bell to go up to 3.5" piping. Did that and welded on the vband. Awesome, not. I thought I had it perfect but I was wrong. It ended up angling to the passenger side, making it impossible to make a turn and clear the strut tower. Damn. So now I'm going to have to make multiple cuts in the bell thats about 3" long so I can get it to turn to the drivers side. It'll look like butt, but I'll just wrap that piece. I welded up the internal wastegate too.

Also welded some of my friends turbo manifolds that had cracked.

Homework time. The next time I'm out there and not pissed off I'll take a butt load of pics.

gli_ryan

03-05-2010, 06:10 AM

alright so I fixed my flange for the turbo. It turned out pretty sweet I think. I'm leaving it tacked on though so it's easier to adjust if need be. I cut the vband off at an angle so that when I turned it it naturally was forced to turn to the right. I then cut a small angled piece to add to the joint so that it angled more to the right as well as downward a little. I think it will be a sweet setup and wont look like poop.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/Welding%20Projects/photo.jpg

ForceFed

03-05-2010, 08:42 AM

dang that looks good ryan. sometimes audis just fight you the whole way...i worked on a 99 2.8 at work and holy crap. i wanted to throw the whole car up in flames about half way through.

gli_ryan

03-07-2010, 08:50 PM

Today's work went well. I had help from my friend Corbett all day. Dang thats nice to have another hand and someone to keep you sane through the work.

Yesterday I put the snub mount on and the a/c bracket on. Also put the water pump belt on and the a/c one too.

We got the last axle attached, had to remove the upper stretch bolt on the knuckle to let the axle get up and around the output part. It got stuck underneath the output off the trans somehow and was too long to make it around and in place.

Got some plugs, NGK part number 4554. Installed.

Worked on the downpipe! Got it pretty much finished, well it is. Did not finish welding the turbo flange though. Sorta forgot.

Took and uploaded pics as well

the start a few months ago
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/14538_1280328165864_1159854380_3085.jpg

titanium valves, lightweight lifter, ti. retainers, high rate springs
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/15544_1298916190553_1159854380_3090.jpg

manifold
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/20961_1334798927599_1159854380_3100.jpg

fx400 with 11.5lb aluminum flywheel
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/20961_1334802207681_1159854380_3100.jpg

big 3.5in mandrel's
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/22561_1360903780204_1159854380_3108.jpg

block together....i hope it stays that way
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/22561_1360905100237_1159854380_3108.jpg

clean head ready to go
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/22561_1360904380219_1159854380_3108.jpg

color combination to suit myself
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/22561_1360906020260_1159854380_3108.jpg

its ready to be inserted
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389677579531_1159854380_3115.jpg

got the intercooler yesterday
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389673739435_1159854380_3115.jpg

we enjoyed today
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389672219397_1159854380_3115.jpg

downpipe actually fit, thank god because I didn't want to be defeated with that 3.5in I was boasting about
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389671459378_1159854380_3115.jpg

heres the flange setup
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389676019492_1159854380_3115.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389674699459_1159854380_3115.jpg

its a cold blooded monster [:)]
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389676939515_1159854380_3115.jpg

annnnd thats it for today
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/25576_1389672899414_1159854380_3115.jpg

I've decided I'm going to call my welding service/operation Straight Pipe Performance. I'll be building exhausts, intercooler setups, and really anything that someone might need welded. So if you need anything built I can do it. I've already got 4 happy customers [drive]

I'm hoping to start this thing next week. Still need to order up the wastegate flanges, why do the vbands have to be so complicated... But thats really all i need. Oh, I need power steering and clutch fluid. Can I just run anything in there? Or does Audi have some dumb protocall for them?

Doctor

03-08-2010, 12:14 AM

That is great progress sir...Thumbs up for you

Lou_B5

03-08-2010, 04:18 AM

sick!!! That's one big ass turbo.

autocross16v

03-08-2010, 05:22 AM

That is a big ass snail on there. Beautiful sight.

A4DRIVR

03-08-2010, 05:29 AM

Holy crap! That's no BAT... it's a BMFT!

dcampana

03-08-2010, 01:29 PM

ummm. BAMFT..... ftw!!!!

nice progress man!

gli_ryan

03-08-2010, 09:24 PM

Yeah its quite large lol. It'll get the job I want done I think, second gear wheel spin.

Well I figured out what happened to my oil filter housing.....its embarrassing. I put the flippin AN adapter in backwards. So the side for the oil line went in. It threaded fine, I didn't notice it was backwards because of it, and then I went to tighten it and since the threads aren't as deep it ripped the threads out. But, the local hydrolic shop said it would be ok to use as is. I took it there and he looked at it, threaded it in correctly and said there shouldn't be any issues. Not sure I have total faith in it, but he tightened it on there pretty good without stripping again. Maybe I'll pull it out and put a butt load of red loc-tight on it.

gli_ryan

03-17-2010, 12:50 AM

So I was hoping to start on my intercooler piping today, well that didn't happen! I put new crank pully bolts on, which ended up being a bit longer than stock. I started rotating the internals to see if everything cleared, well something didn't. I put the washers on the bolts, didn't work. I pulled the bolts out and I still had an issue. What the hell?!! I started pulling crap off. Nothing was working. It sounded like something in the tranny, something with the clutch. Well it was. The diaphram cover was hitting inside the trans. I ended up grinding the bump that was the issue, problem solved.

I put everything back on and now its bed time. I hope tomorrow to get the intercooler piping done, at LEAST started. Pics tomorrow. The wastegate setup so far is sick. I love my welder.

Lou_B5

03-17-2010, 08:53 AM

must see that wastegate! hehe

gli_ryan

03-18-2010, 12:30 AM

Heres the full update, I'll largely spare you all the drama.

First of all, I got the wrong outlet clamp for my flippin wastegate. WTF, why do I have to be the one to always get screwed with this crap.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-1.jpg

I sold my stock 7 spokes with blizzaks for 250. So the car is on jack stands. I figured it would be a great time to swap my front brakes. The a8/whatever kit with red stuff pads. All new caliper carriers around.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-2.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-10.jpg

yeah i put it on the wrong side, its fixed now
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-11.jpg

I had already done the rears
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-12.jpg

here I was mocking up the gate

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-4.jpg

welding it together
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-3.jpg

tadaaa, with the compressor on it hinders the openness of the wastegate. but I don't have a pic of it like that unfortunately. So I'm not at all the first person to have the wastegate mounted like this, but since I made it I'm really happy about it. I love it. I wish there were a little bit of change, and wish I could do something crazy with the dump tube, but I don't think I have enough piping or more importantly enough space
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-13.jpg

then the clutch, you get the idea on how I felt about that

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-5.jpg

2am today, well now yesterday, St Patties morning if that helps. Finally got the motor back in AGAIN

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-6.jpg

this afternoon I got the intercooler mounted up

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-7.jpg

Then I realized that thing was up to high for the hood to shut! So I had to re-work the mounts. I ended up just spacing the intercooler down from the bottom of the original brackets.

Then I started working on the intercooler piping. Its a lot tighter than I expected. And as I expected keeping the a4 bumper and trying to hide the 3" thick intercooler behind it is silly. So I'm going to get a crappy a4 bumper and destroy it for now. Then hopefully find an s4 bumper [rolleyes]

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/photo-8.jpg

I don't know if I said anything about it, but I'm going to weld my piping together. I set up my welder for aluminum today and tried a bit before going out. Aluminum is really tricky. Its like the heat isn't hot enough but its still burning through. I only tried it for like 2 minutes, and my metal was really dirty. So I hope that was a lot of what was going on.

I'm also working on the harness. The injectors, cam sensor, tach, fuel pump relay, and crank position sensor are soldered in. Otherwise lots left in that area.... which sucks bad

I'm still hoping to start it this week.

dcampana

03-18-2010, 11:17 AM

nice progress for sure man. looking forward to seeing vids (as i am sure youa re too). there is light at the end of the tunnel.

gli_ryan

03-20-2010, 06:48 PM

Yeah thanks. I'm really excited.

I have a couple things to wrap up for tomorrow, and lugnuts hasn't gotten back to me about a couple of discrepencies with his wiring sheet he gave me, I think I've gotten through them though. Anyways, where should I wire my ignition power for the ecu? I'm thinking a switch, mainly because I don't know where else to wire it to that turns on with the key.

And what should I do with my crank case vent for the time being? I do not have a catch can set up for it yet. I'm probably just going to leave it vented.

Tomorrow looks like its going to be the initial startup. [:)]

ForceFed

03-20-2010, 08:06 PM

NICE i love welding aluminum. i used a tig though. iam guessing you got a aluminium wire feed gun? thing is really coming together now. what are you going to do for a intake? just a cone filter?

gli_ryan

03-20-2010, 08:57 PM

Yeah I'm using a spool gun, and this thinner piping is really hard to control a pool on.
Just going to use a cone filter, if I can get one to fit. Its so tight, I tried one, but I haven't been able to get it to fit yet. I need to trim my core support to get one to fit.

gli_ryan

03-21-2010, 06:35 PM

AHA!!! It runs! It actually runs. My friends have the vids. They are totally worth watching. It sounds like a semi when it starts to spool [:)]

I'm very high on life, and corn right now

ForceFed

03-22-2010, 10:21 PM

WHERE ARE THE VIDS? damn man iam surprised how fast you got this thing done. it would take me a year or two do what you have done. well done sir well done

dcampana

03-23-2010, 10:57 AM

VIDEOS???????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

congrats on gettign it running....

gli_ryan

03-24-2010, 06:16 AM

Thanks.

Its too loud in the garage to get a video worth posting.... But I'm getting my tires Friday and should have them on the car Saturday. And driving it. I'll post a vid then when you can hear it [:)]

But I ran it again last night. The last time before the drive. Good thing because I had a coolant hose blow off, rather have it happen in the garage than on the road. Also did a small amount of tuning with it and it revs smoother. But at 2k it goes up and down. It'll pop and then the revs drop and go back up. We couldn't get it quite right at that point. Up to 3k though its good. I can't wait for Saturday!!! I hope it rains, instead of snowing. Any ideas on the reving? We messed with the timing and fuel but had no affect on it. Also the cold start is bad. I need to keep my foot on the gas a tiny bit to keep it running or it will die. It fires up easy though.

gli_ryan

03-28-2010, 06:34 AM

YES! Its so awesome driving that thing. I haven't been around someone with a video camera on their phone yet.

Couple of issues still though. My wastegate isn't working properly. As in it won't open. When I bought it I was told it had a ~14lb spring. Well it does not open at that point, because I've seen almost double that on accident. I have it plumbed to the nipple on the turbo, and into the bottom of the gate. I don't have a dump, and I can tell that the thing hasn't opened yet. Any ideas?

I have no tach in my cluster. It was working, when I went out for the first drive it was a little jerky. Then when it accidentally hit ~19psi it cut out. And hasn't worked since. I check the one solder joint I had to make but its fine. Also at that time my oil light came on. But there is oil in it.

I have another light on. Its a circle with outlines to the right and left on both sides of it. It looks to me like a power steering fluid light. But I didn't see any plugs for that.

All in all it runs pretty good. It dies when it comes off some revs though. Making it hard to drive. Love that corn!

gli_ryan

03-29-2010, 10:45 AM

I already had a coilpack go out. I bought 4 brand new ones, and put less than 50 miles on it before one went out. Ecs better step up and replace that thing..

Also does anyone know where Kevin Black been? I need to get a hold of him because my tach isn't working and it's pissing me off.

gli_ryan

03-29-2010, 03:38 PM

Ugh!!!! Another coil pack went out today. WTF!! Super not cool because I only had the one spare. F this. I'm not happy.

A4Rob

03-30-2010, 08:38 AM

Are you running the ICM delete?

gli_ryan

03-30-2010, 05:01 PM

Yeah I am. So the newer 4 wire coil packs. And ecs hasn't called me back or emailed. I guess i know how they feel about customers with problems with their stuff. Well that's just great. Thanks guys.

gli_ryan

03-30-2010, 08:20 PM

sorry for the wait! moments after this I had the second coil pack go out. better vids to come

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlzGghrmAOY&feature=player_embedded

A4Rob

04-01-2010, 07:55 PM

Good to see her up and running.

gli_ryan

04-04-2010, 03:08 PM

More issues.

Yesterday I was driving after installing the ATP 255 fuel pump kit, going to work, and I got on it. It was good. Then again, well it started to miss fire. I figured that another coil blew. I couldn't get the car started after it died. It would turn over for a little bit and then lock up. So I figured something catastrophic happened. Long story short one of the injectors stuck open and hydrolocked it. Also the injector driver for that injector burnt up. I figured they were related. I needed the car to make it home so I wired up a couple of jumpers at my friends house so that two injectors were setup as a batch fire on one driver, which is common and how my gti used to be set up. It worked.

Now I'm driving it again today after putting 50 miles on it. Getting on it again and it starts to miss fire. I think what the fuck is that now. Lots of blue smoke behind me. Great. Pull over to see fuel leaking out of every gasket on the turbo and manifold. So I quick unplug the injectors. Well that same damn injector stuck open again!!!!! UGH! I'm getting fed up with the injectors and this ecu. I'm not happy with them right now. The only issues I've had with this car are the coil packs, the tach stopping to work, and now the injectors messing up. I'm second guessing my choice to not just get Megasquirt. For tons less I could have had essentially the same ecu, and the last time I built a megasquirt ecu myself I had no problems. It sounds like it'll be taken care of though, which will make the situation a little better.

A4Rob

04-04-2010, 08:18 PM

Why didn't you just unplug the injector and drive home? Obviously it is a sticky injector.

gli_ryan

04-04-2010, 09:27 PM

I didn't think that was a good idea, wouldn't that essentially be like running that one cylinder super lean? It also wouldn't be getting any lubrication from the fuel. Its not an issue now though since its home. It was about 4 miles from home, I just towed it with a truck and rope.

flynnr

04-06-2010, 10:06 PM

great build i hope to get a chance to see this thing in action some time.

gli_ryan

04-14-2010, 07:35 AM

Still have no ecu.... gay as aids. this shouldn't be taking this long....

gli_ryan

04-21-2010, 06:27 AM

ecu had an attempted drop off yesterday. So I need to get to the post office and pick it up, new injector didn't get shipped out until yesterday. So MAYBE the car will be ready to drive this weekend. Lord knows its been 3 or 4 weeks.

Also, found out the afr's are reading off lambda, which was set to 9.whatev for e85. Ugh, so the 14.7 is set as 1.0 lambda, which is stoich for whatever fuel your running. So I've been tuning off what I figured was gas value afr's, nope. Sure haven't. So me tuning it into the 9's, well I was probably in the 4's or 5's for gas afr's. No wonder I was getting 11 mpg and the plugs were black all the time.

gli_ryan

04-21-2010, 01:36 PM

Heres a few pics of what has been going on.

test fitting the wheels

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0572.jpg

tires

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0578.jpg

downpipe

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0574.jpg

mid section of pipe

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0582.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0584.jpg

[>_<]
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0587.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0589.jpg

working on the atp drop in walbro kit. I found out they use the 255hp, not the 255lph. Which the hp has produced 500whp on an e85 powered dsm. so it should be a good fuel pump option. Also, I was able to unlock the fuel pump with my hands. No need for screw drivers or the special tool.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0590.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0591.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0592.jpg

my dump tube

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0594.jpg

old exhaust (temporary)

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0604.jpg

finished product

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0618.jpg

building the y pipe for the tips

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0608.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0610.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0613.jpg

magically had this lined up nearly perfect.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0606.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0617.jpg

and I lowered it this weekend, in hopes of driving it with some sort of stance from here on out

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p140/gli_ryan/a4/IMG_0628.jpg

flynnr

04-21-2010, 03:05 PM

i hate waiting on things that completely hold up your project...

Castor Troy

04-22-2010, 09:11 AM

those are dunlop direzza z1 star specs right? cant wait to hear how you like them

gli_ryan

04-23-2010, 11:22 AM

back on the road. it sounds sick with the full exhaust and maybe a tad quieter. [:)]

gli_ryan

04-23-2010, 03:40 PM

So I've got a couple issues.
1. my fuel pump relay is going crazy under boost. And is constantly going on and off. I'm talking about the big silver one, 99% sure its the fuel pump because when pulled the car doesn't stay running.
2. still breaking up under lots of boost. afr's looked good...brand new plugs...ugh. the pains of standalone

gli_ryan

04-24-2010, 07:44 PM

I need to find a coil pack that doesn't suck so much ass, and a good company to buy them from. I just had another ecs coil pack burn up, a karlyn one. Thats 3 in 500 miles. And ecs isn't getting back to me about them. Definitely will NOT buy them through ecs ever again.

Otherwise the car is running good! Its raining and getting onto the highway it broke the tires free at 15psi. I was about to turn it up to 20-25 tonight, but no. fucking coil pack killed any hope of enjoying the car more.

pja0750

04-25-2010, 03:38 PM

gli_ryan

04-25-2010, 03:50 PM

even more lame. something like the head gasket went. pulled the head but the gasket looked good. not sure what the fuck happened. i'm going to crawl up and die pretty quick though... I hope the head isn't damaged.

20vpower

04-26-2010, 03:39 PM

nice choice, clk 320 wheels, those things weigh like 13lbs right?

gli_ryan

05-04-2010, 07:55 PM

Yeah they are really light. Unfortunately I don't think they will be getting used any more this year. My block is cracked and I really don't have the time or the money to fix this. The number 4 cylinder has a crack on the bottom of the sleeve. Coolant was exiting through the oil drain with the piston up, and when it made it to the bottom of the cylinder it started to fill in on top of it.

I'm drinking tonight.

possible part out coming.....

dcampana

05-06-2010, 08:52 AM

damn man.. what bad luck. I say try to keep it going. you have a hell of a build here, man...

gli_ryan

05-10-2010, 03:42 PM

Alright, so as of tonight the plan is to take the motor in to the machine shop and get it re-sleeved. I tried replacing the head gasket but that wasn't the issue. I was filling it with coolant and then it started to come out of the oil pan... Definitely a problem. Rotated the assembly and then it was filling in over the piston. Uh oh.

Fast forward to today. Motor is out, head it off. There is a massive crack that is in the number 4 sleeve. Tomorrow I will have it all apart and in the shop. Hopefully no other sleeves do this... And hopefully there is enough material left after the boring to allow the block to be sleeved. I'll know tomorrow or Wednesday the fate of the block.