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TahoeA4
03-08-2009, 09:10 PM
So I have had quite a few people ask me to do a write up installing interior LED lights. I know there are bits and pieces of DIYs floating around AZ, but I wanted to try and compile all the information into one place and make it as clear as possible.

Rating:
Easy, but potentially frustrating

Time:
1-2 Hours (depending on proficiency[wrench])

Tools:
-Screwdriver
-Masking or electrical tape

Cost:
$40 to $60 Depending on type and quantity ordered.

Parts:
I ordered my LEDs off www.superbrightleds.com (http://www.superbrightleds.com), but you can use whatever you want. As for what lights you need, I found this diagram to be most useful:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/B6_Light_Position-Final.jpg

The diagram is a picture of a B7 Avant, but the bulbs are the same for a B6. Below are the lights, quantity needed, type in the diagram and the type at superbrightleds.com with the link for the Avant (Wagon) and Saloon (Sedan).

Saloon (Sedan):
Front Door Puddle Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Glovebox Light - Quantity 1 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Front Footwell Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Vanity Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type T in Diagram - 36mm Festoon Type Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoon_3610-x4.htm)
Front Reading (Map) Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type B in Diagram - Bayonet Base Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s.htm)
Front Ceiling (Dome) Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type L in Diagram - 42mm Festoon Type Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoon_4211-x6.htm)
Rear Door Puddle Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Rear Footwell Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Rear Reading (Map) Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type B in Diagram - Bayonet Base Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s.htm)
Trunk Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)

Avant (Wagon):
Front Door Puddle Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Glovebox Light - Quantity 1 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Front Footwell Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Vanity Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type T in Diagram - 36mm Festoon Type Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoon_3610-x4.htm)
Front Reading (Map) Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type B in Diagram - Bayonet Base Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s.htm)
Front Ceiling (Dome) Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type L in Diagram - 42mm Festoon Type Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoon_4211-x6.htm)
Rear Door Puddle Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Rear Footwell Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type P in Diagram - Wedge Base Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x5.htm)
Middle Ceiling (Map) Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type B in Diagram - Bayonet Base Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s.htm)
Rear Celiling Lights - Quantity: 2 - Type T in Diagram - 36mm Festoon Type Bulb (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoon_3610-x4.htm)
Rear Hatch Light - Quantity: 1 - Type L in Diagram - 42mm Festoon Type Bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoon_4211-x6.htm)

As you will see on the website, you have choices of different types of LEDs, and different arrangements. My suggestion is to go with the wide-angle beam ones, and you will see why in the installation section. If you get narrow-angle beam, the light will shine into the side of the housing and not much light will go down through the lens. I got the narrow-angle beam ones with the bayonet base type as I didn't want as much light coming out of the map lights (front and back). So if you want more light, get wider angle bulbs.

Picture of bulbs I ordered (two dome, eight wedge, and four bayonet)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi014.jpg

Installation:
The installation of the bulbs is really pretty easy, with the exception of the rear footwell lights. They suck only because of the tight space. More on that later. The bulbs are plug and play, so you are simply replacing your old lights with the LEDs.

Wrap the screwdriver in tape. This will mimimize the risk of scratching the interior pieces.

First thing I suggest is to either disconnect your battery or unplug fuses associated with the lights. You do not have to do this, but I highly recommend it. I wanted to do everything I could to avoid inviting the electrical gremlins into my car! [evilsmile] I personally went with the fuse option, as it was much easier to plug/unplug fuses to test that the lights worked than to do the battery thing.

Fuses:

#2 - Footwell illumination - Front and Rear Footwell Lights
#22 - Front Doors - Front Door Puddle Lights
#23 - Rear Doors - Rear Door Puddle Lights
#24 - Central Convenience Electrical System - Map, Glovebox, Vanity, Trunk and Overhead Lights

First I replaced all four door puddle lights. They are located at the bottom of the door. Simply take your screwdriver wrapped in tape and pop the clear covers off. You will have to wedge it under the forward-most side (closest to the door hinge). After it pops out, you will be able to pull it out, it is connected by a wire, so simply un-clip the little harness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi017.jpg

This is what it should look like when you pulled it out. This is obviously with the old bulb in, so go ahead and take it out. Now you might have to bend the metal tabs on the housing a little bit to match the metal leads on the new wedge-type LED light. This might take some time in order to get a clean connection. Make sure it is snug, especially since you will be opening and closing the doors a lot, and don't want the light knocking itself loose. Test that you made a good connection by plugging in the wire to the housing, and replacing the fuse. If it doesn't light, check the back edge of the door (farthest from the hinge) to see if the red-covered light back there is working. If it isn't on, replace the housing, close the door, wait a few seconds and open it. Essentially you had timed out the lights and they turned off after a set time, and so you need to reset them by closing and opening the door. Do this for all four doors.

Next I replaced the front footwell lights. They are the same exact housing as the puddle lights, and come out the same way. Remove the clear plastic housing, unplug the harness, remove the old bulb, bend the metal tabs, replace with wedge-type LED bulb, replace fuse/battery cable, test, replace housing.

I next did the overhead lights. The cover it easily removed, but be gentle and careful not to scratch the plastic. Start at the back of the lens at one corner, and carefully work the piece off. It hinges forward. After removing the clear lens, remove the panel just forward of it where the map lights are. This is accomplished just like with the lens, start at the back corner and carefully work the screwdriver under the panel and across. This is what the overhead looks like with the two pieces removed (I already replaced the festoon bulbs with the LEDs in this picture):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi019.jpg

Replace the two long bulbs (festoon types) for the overheads with the two festoon-type LEDs. Make sure the LEDs are pointed downward, as shown in the picture above. Next, replace the two map lights with the bayonet-type bulbs. You simply push in, twist about a quarter of a turn, and pull the bulbs out. Reverse to put the new LEDs in. Test the lights with the covers off. Replace the panels, map lights first then lens, the reverse of how you removed them. This is what it should look like with the new bulbs in!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi021.jpg

Moving to the backseat, the only overhead lights back there are the map lights. They are exactly the same as the map lights in the front. Use the tape-wrapped screwdriver to carefully pry the panel off. It is attached by a wire, and will look like this when removed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi022.jpg

You don't have to unplug the harness, you can simply change the bulbs with the housing hanging there. It is the same bayonet-type bulb as the map lights in the front. Twist and pull, replace and twist. Test. Replace housing.

The last part is the part that took the longest and is the most frustrating part of the entire process: the rear footwell lights. They are located under the back edge of the front seats. They are exactly the same as the puddle and front footwell lights. Use the screwdriver to pop them out just like the others. The problem, and most frustrating part, is that the wire leading to the harness is insanely short. You cannot pull the housing out with the wire attached. So once you pop it out, you will have to carefully pull sideways (towards the door) in order to unhook the harness. You might have to reach your finger under the seat and into the insanely small space to the side of the housing (there is a small opening where the wire leaves the metal part and goes under the seat).

When you get it out, replace the bulb just like the others. I highly recommend that you make damn sure that the bulb is in securely and the contacts are making good contact. Good news is you would have already done this 6 times with the 4 puddle and 2 front footwell lights, so you know what it takes for a good connection. I highly recommend testing it with one of the rear puddle lights to make sure it is in correctly. Take out the puddle light housing that you already worked on, plug in the footwell light and test to make sure it works.

This next part is a bitch. As I said before, the wire is short as hell. I tried pulling it out as far as I could, being careful not to do any damage. I looked under the seat and you can see where the wire goes forward and joins up with the heated seat wires (if you have them). It doesn't look like you can pull any slack towards the rear. So you are stuck with having to try and reconnect the harness through the hole. You can stick one finger in with the wire, and stick the housing in. The hard part is getting the plug to get into the port. It is hard to explain, but you will understand what I am talking about. It is so damn frustrating. I kid you not, you will probably have to stop a few times, yell some explicitives, maybe drink a beer (or two) and have another go at it. The two rear footwell lights took me about an hour to do. It is really frustrating, but so worth it when you are done. Don't let me discourage you, you will eventually get it, but it will take some time and a shit-load of patience.

You can change the trunk (Saloon) and glovebox lights the same way as the puddle and footwell lights. They use the wedge base bulb. Also, the vanity and rear ceiling (Avant) and rear hatch lights (Avant) are changed similarly, except with festoon type 36mm bulbs. I did not change any of these lights when I did it myself, since I only wanted that lights that turn on when you open the doors to be red.

That is it![race] Again, I did not change my vanity lights as I wanted to leave them white in case I needed to read a map at night, as the red lights are not bright enough (and I don't want them to be, it looks way cooler with them giving out a cool red glow). Here is the finished product. The pictures suck, and make it much brighter than it actually is but you get the idea. I don't have any picures of the puddle lights, but it is way cool rolling up somewhere, opening up the doors and having red light spill out onto the ground! It looks really good, and everyone who has seen it loves it I hope this helped, and enjoy you newly-lighted interior! [drive]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi023.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/spike85/Audi024.jpg

Kwarner
09-15-2009, 02:20 AM
thats pretty sick

Doctor
09-15-2009, 02:25 AM
I have done the same with my B7, however not red but ice white...
Nice write-up

Ethar
10-15-2009, 10:16 PM
This is sexy! gj and thanks for the write up

CRAIG1MACK
10-16-2009, 06:41 AM
Sweet! Looks great man. Thanks for the detailed write up and links!

Dirty(30)v
11-10-2009, 09:48 AM
nice write up guy

CT TURBO A4
12-17-2009, 09:06 PM
would this be the same for a b5 a4??

TahoeA4
12-18-2009, 08:12 PM
Just checked with a friend who has a B5 A4 and yes, these bulbs are the same for the B5 chassis.

danothegrate2
12-20-2009, 10:27 AM
I'm doing ice white very soon! I've seen it in another b6 and it looks sweet!

05 S-LINE
01-06-2010, 11:58 AM
Thank you very much for this info TahoeA4, I'm getting ready to do my car in white and this is very helpful...

a4_matt
01-07-2010, 09:56 AM
how do guys think ice white for the upper reading/dome lights and red for the foot wells would look? dumb?

Claw_3.0
01-08-2010, 11:44 AM
Hello, my first post on the forum, and it will be a dumb question :).

I am having the worst time trying to get the map light bulbs out. It wiggles, but it does not come out!!! Please help, it's very frustrating!!!

::EDIT:: Holy crap; is it as simple as twisting it out!! I'm going to go try it.

::EDIT2:: Wow, it was that easy. I'm a tard.

TahoeA4
01-08-2010, 07:02 PM
how do guys think ice white for the upper reading/dome lights and red for the foot wells would look? dumb?

Give it a try and let us know! I think the white would overpower the red footwell lights, as the red is not all that bright.

tommy782
02-24-2010, 02:28 PM
do you change the license plate bulb? whats is th model?

itsmatt33
02-24-2010, 08:24 PM
in order to change ur plate bulbs without getting a bulb out warning or a cel you need:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-FWD-1.8T/Lighting/ZIZA/ES252846/

expensive but worth it pyspeed has them as well

WantaA4
02-28-2010, 05:31 AM
in order to change ur plate bulbs without getting a bulb out warning or a cel you need:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-FWD-1.8T/Lighting/ZIZA/ES252846/

expensive but worth it pyspeed has them as well

Thanks for the info

$teve
02-28-2010, 09:14 PM
i love this and i really want to do it with my a4, i was just curious as to how much extra work would be involved to run a switch to the front and rear foot wells so that i could keep those lights on while the car is in motion.. any ideas?

itsmatt33
03-02-2010, 01:14 PM
no problem^^

guys i got a complete set for a b6 sedan in cool white pm me

jfkraske
03-14-2010, 11:42 PM
Hey this is completely unrelated, but I cant seem to post my own threads. I was just wondering is there somewhere i can mount my ballasts from an HID kit i just installed on my 2005 Audi A4 B6. I installed it just fine just i have NO IDEA where to mount the ballasts. Is there a particular spot where you guys mount yours?

itsmatt33
03-18-2010, 12:49 PM
so why dont you search and find the multiple thread where that has been covered many times and ask there....theres a forum search button!

UhOhQuattro
03-23-2010, 03:11 PM
Does anyone have a link to the superbrightLEDs site to the type T bulb

For the Vanity Lights

Thanks!

TahoeA4
03-24-2010, 02:30 PM
Does anyone have a link to the superbrightLEDs site to the type T bulb

For the Vanity Lights

Thanks!

Not to be a dick, but did you even read the DIY? I posted the link there.

tommy782
03-25-2010, 11:05 AM
I change the license plate bulb for cold white and never have a bulb error alert. thanks, superbrightleds!! 2 bulbs for 5$ compare to 49$ for the ecs!

Raiketsu
03-27-2010, 09:30 PM
I change the license plate bulb for cold white and never have a bulb error alert. thanks, superbrightleds!! 2 bulbs for 5$ compare to 49$ for the ecs!

So you just got the type L white LEDs and there was no bulb out alert?

itsmatt33
03-29-2010, 08:47 AM
i wouldnt do that many people have done that and for some it works just fine until they have flickering and errors all over the place

tommy782
03-30-2010, 08:33 AM
ismatt33... you have reason.. [:)] I install the bulb during... two or three weeks and work very fine and perfect fitment. yesterday I start the car and I have a bulb alert for my license plate. I check and the bulb desn't work. I install and desinstall the bulb and one bulb flickering and the other one stop to work..

swededA4
04-20-2010, 07:14 AM
thank you for the right up. i just got done installing the LEDs from superbright and it looks so much better.

a4jason
04-28-2010, 01:00 PM
For those who have done white instead of red, do the "white" bulbs match up with the "natural white" bulbs offered in other sizes?

benthemagicbum
05-08-2010, 02:41 PM
the rear hatch light in my b6 avant is needs the 42mm festoon, not the 36mm
i just did all but the vanity lights and glove box in blue
it looks sick
thanks for posting the diagram and instructions, it helped a ton

the 36mm still fits in the rear hatch light, but you have to bend the contacts and it looks like a really tiny light through the lens
you should fix the legend for the rear hatch

TahoeA4
05-15-2010, 08:35 AM
the rear hatch light in my b6 avant is needs the 42mm festoon, not the 36mm
i just did all but the vanity lights and glove box in blue
it looks sick
thanks for posting the diagram and instructions, it helped a ton

the 36mm still fits in the rear hatch light, but you have to bend the contacts and it looks like a really tiny light through the lens
you should fix the legend for the rear hatch

I just updated the list, thanks for the correction!

jsantiago17
06-06-2010, 12:09 PM
For those who have done white instead of red, do the "white" bulbs match up with the "natural white" bulbs offered in other sizes?

??

itsmatt33
06-06-2010, 03:18 PM
For those who have done white instead of red, do the "white" bulbs match up with the "natural white" bulbs offered in other sizes?

i understand your question as some sections only let u buy "white" and others natural cool etc.

however i do not know which "white" matches to. so i just bought all cool white which a slight blue to them

swededA4
06-06-2010, 06:14 PM
white and cool white

jsantiago17
06-06-2010, 06:59 PM
white and cool white

Great - that's what I ended up ordering today...looking forward to installing!

jsantiago17
06-10-2010, 08:02 PM
Hey guys,

I started a new thread about this earlier, but haven't gotten any responses and hoping one of you can help me....so, sorry if you're reading this for a second time.

I'm a bit concerned right now. I just was swapping out my interior lights (dome, map, vanity and trunk lights) with LED's. I did the interior and everything was working fine and looking great. I get to the trunk and I change the 1st light and I'm on the last light, in order to finish completely. On the housing for the last light, there is a plastic cover, which I needed to take off to swap the lights. As I replace the light and go to put housing back into its place, I forget to put the plastic cover on the housing. I touch metal to metal and it sparks and the trunk lights go out. I go into my car and all of the interior lights that I replaced are out or really dimly lit. I tried swapping out the lights with the originals, but the lights still do not work. I also notice that my alarm is not setting now....the lock/unlock works, but the alarm is not setting.

Did I completely screw up my interior lighting?? Is there anyway to fix this? Can I just replace the fuse in the fuse box??

Let me know what you guys think...thanks.

JNCity
06-13-2010, 11:28 AM
Hey guys,

I started a new thread about this earlier, but haven't gotten any responses and hoping one of you can help me....so, sorry if you're reading this for a second time.

I'm a bit concerned right now. I just was swapping out my interior lights (dome, map, vanity and trunk lights) with LED's. I did the interior and everything was working fine and looking great. I get to the trunk and I change the 1st light and I'm on the last light, in order to finish completely. On the housing for the last light, there is a plastic cover, which I needed to take off to swap the lights. As I replace the light and go to put housing back into its place, I forget to put the plastic cover on the housing. I touch metal to metal and it sparks and the trunk lights go out. I go into my car and all of the interior lights that I replaced are out or really dimly lit. I tried swapping out the lights with the originals, but the lights still do not work. I also notice that my alarm is not setting now....the lock/unlock works, but the alarm is not setting.

Did I completely screw up my interior lighting?? Is there anyway to fix this? Can I just replace the fuse in the fuse box??

Let me know what you guys think...thanks.

Ya I would definitly say you fried your fuse. Try replacing it and see what happens. It's worth a shot. You may have to replace 2, not sure if the alarm has a seperate fuse but most likely it does. Hopefully its as simple as that. Good Luck!

JNCity
06-13-2010, 11:31 AM
Wow that interior looks awesome. Looks sick with the already luxuriously detailed stock trim lighting. Nice Job!!

jsantiago17
06-13-2010, 11:52 AM
Ya I would definitly say you fried your fuse. Try replacing it and see what happens. It's worth a shot. You may have to replace 2, not sure if the alarm has a seperate fuse but most likely it does. Hopefully its as simple as that. Good Luck!

Yeah....that's exactly what happened. I blew 2 fuses - the interior convenience lighting fuse and the alarm fuse....a whole $2.16, so that was a relief!

Dirty(30)v
01-05-2011, 09:54 AM
took me about 45 mins, to do puddle lights, footwells, and dome lights, VERY EASY MOD!!!, also look great when done. did mine all red with high out bulbs in the front foot wells.

itsmatt33
02-15-2011, 09:15 AM
doesnt anyone else have flickering footwell lights with the leds?

itsmatt33
02-15-2011, 05:57 PM
anyone?

audimontreal
07-27-2011, 06:24 PM
Dumb question...but where is that darn fuse box located?

Doctor
07-28-2011, 01:34 AM
Dumb question...but where is that darn fuse box located?

Ever heard of the manual . . . .

BoSNiaN
09-18-2011, 06:50 PM
Just swapped all my lights according to this guide, thanks a bunch!!! It was spot on[:)]

My rear footwells took me like 5 minutes as the harness came out, not sure why yours didn't.....the drivers footwell and the glovebox are the biggest PIA because of how little room you have to work (and have to deal with the pedals).

audi_driver1
10-18-2011, 10:43 AM
Having trouble understanding to what degree I want some of the bulbs? For example for the footwell lights I can purchase 90 or 32 degrees same with Map Lights I can purchase 120, 90, or 32 degrees?
What do I want, what is the difference?

TahoeA4
11-22-2011, 08:30 AM
Having trouble understanding to what degree I want some of the bulbs? For example for the footwell lights I can purchase 90 or 32 degrees same with Map Lights I can purchase 120, 90, or 32 degrees?
What do I want, what is the difference?

Your post is a month old but I rarely ever check this thread anymore. The degrees is just the angle of light given off. For example, a 32 degree bulb is only going to put out light straight out (kinda like a flashlight), whereas a 120 degree bulb will give out light in almost all directions (like a naked 60 watt light bulb on a lamp). You need to take into account the orientation of the bulb and how much light you want to leave the housing and light up the interior of your car.

Since all the wedge and bayonet bulbs are mounted in the housings laterally, a narrow angle (32 degree) will shine mostly at the side of the housing, whereas a wider angle (120 or 90 degree) will allow more light to go out of the housing and through the plastic cover. If you want a brighter interior, get the wider angle bulbs and vice versa. I hope this helps, even if it is a month late.

schnellboy
01-24-2012, 06:50 AM
Man!!!! I had the hardest time getting the bulbs to work. I got my set from ECS, all of them fit great except for the wedge type, I had to bend out the connections on all of those bulb housings to get the "white" collar on the bulb to sit further in the plug. If not the top diode would be in the way of the clip that holds it into the door of housing etc. It took a while of manipulating the terminals on the plug, and the leads on the bulb to get a good connection. Unpluging the fuse was not an option for me, seeing as it was a constant jiggle fest to get them to light and stay lit. so unplugging the fuse and closing doors to reset the timer would have proved to be to fustrating. They look great though. All hyper white BTW