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GotRS?
08-19-2009, 03:54 PM
This is a brief how-to, from my install of a sub woofer in place of the stock one under the parcel shelf in an RS4, although it is equally good for the B6/B7 A4/S4. I've included my amp install as well but that is free choice for you since price and mounting etc are far more flexible there. Also this was in an RS4 where the battery is in the trunk.

The speaker is the Pioneer shallow mount 8" suitable for free-air use:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Subwoofers/Shallow/TS-SW841D

The amplifier is a Kenwood KAC-8104D:

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entertainment/amplifiers/kac-8104d

I like the amp for its autosensing power on/off feature and its size to fit near the battery under the trunk liner. If you're doing this on other than an RS4 you'll need a different home for it.


Safety: Always disconnect the battery when working on the electrical system

Start by lowering the back seat backrest down for access.

Tip: Be careful not to trap the buckle that comes up between the seats, under the backrest surface as it comes down, it will leave a nasty indent in the leather.

Gently pry up the front of the grille in the parcel shelf. Grab the sides and pull it forward and up to release it from the back. There are no screws.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2617/3835173089_7eed855669.jpg

Unscrew the four T20 screws from around the speaker.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/3835173265_179419c2a7.jpg

Where the shelf folds down behind the seat back, run a screwdriver under and side to side, and locate the four (or five?) poppers that the shelf clips to the body with. Pry the poppers free with your screwdriver.

Tip: Get the tip of the screwdriver as close to the poppers as you can to pry free, otherwise they can easily be ripped off the underside of the shelf if you just pull on the shelf. No big worry if you lose a couple in battle, the seat back holds the shelf down.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3546/3835173177_e542088246.jpg

Pull up the shelf enough to get to the speaker enclosure, the shelf doesn't have to come out. There are two T20 screws to remove inside the enclosure in the front two corners very deep down next to the speaker. There is a third accessible from the trunk at the rear of the speaker grille. Unplug the speaker connection near the enclosure and you are clear to pull up the front of the whole unit and lift out.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2525/3835757594_97e74b740c.jpg

There are four little clips holding the speaker grille to the enclosure, you can see one center right next to the speaker. Pop these through and off comes the grille.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2142/3835757502_e4abea692f.jpg

Upturned enclosure. Look at the very ends of the grille "webs", I have cut through those to remove the center of the grill to allow the rear of the new speaker to come through.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2494/3834964711_acdf068bdb.jpg

Sealant on the newly crafted mounting ring.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3476/3834965105_1818c7e751.jpg

The new speaker comes with a rubber sleeve around its perimeter, discard it, the speaker grille surround will not fit with it in place and you can use silicon sealant to make a flexible seal which prevents any contact of the speaker with the mount. Clip the newly crafted mounting ring back in place around the speaker

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3548/3834964841_7e5286450b.jpg

Enclosure turned back over again. The original speaker wire is shown for reference to the earlier picture but you should have taken that out by now because the terminals for this new speaker are in the trunk (my bad).

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3546/3835173177_e542088246.jpg

Insert the enclosure back where it came from, there is adequate clearance although that was my worry when I started that it wouldn't go back in. Phew. Screw back in place with the three screws you removed and you're ready to add the amplifier. Don't refit the rear shelf yet, you'll need access to hide wires under there.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2463/3837279178_8a0375bed4.jpg

This is an even briefer guide on the amp install but it is flexible as I said.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2676/3837279188_5073a11475.jpg

Pulling out the filler styrofoam from around the battery reveals a nice spot for an amp in the RS4. The section holding the tire pump is cut away to make room (the pump fits easily in the back of the cubby to the left of the trunk).

To remove the trunk side liner, first remove the screws holding the long trim at the bottom opening of the trunk, remove the trim, then the one or two screws holding the side liner may be removed and the liner pulled open as shown. The wire seen is for the rear power socket in the right cubby, which needs disconnecting before pulling back the liner. This is where I tapped in for +12V power, a good high current source (well high enough for this mild audio addition). The amp –ve terminal should go to a good body connection point, I drilled a small hole to screw a connection to.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2499/3837279194_2441cb139e.jpg

This shows the original Bose amp for reference. There is a white wire I understand in that big connector, which can be used for switching an amp on/off. I used an autosensing amp instead.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/3837279202_e3eb1967b1.jpg

Early stages of fitting. You will need to get the speaker signal from the original connector you took off up by the speaker. Extend that wire pair down to the amp speaker-level input. Also run beefy wires back up to the new speaker along the same route. These are easily hidden behind the side liner and under the rear shelf.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3427/3836407341_b5f5221e9f.jpg

Replace the side liner, not forgetting to connect up the power socket in the cubby again (a little tricky) and rear trim. At this stage I added Dynomat over the bottom of the rear shelf bodywork in the trunk, and patches wherever I could fit it under the shelf inside the car. I hardly found space for two sq.ft. or so.

Put back down the rear shelf, locating the poppers in their mounting holes and push firmly. Replace the four screws around the speaker and replace the grill. Fold up the seats and pump up the volume!

For reference, I have the gain set to 0dB (minimum) and the low pass filter to 100Hz. It took me a while to realize that the gain being up any higher just did not work, there's a lot of power in that amp and the signal in is already at speaker level.

[race]

WinterRunner
08-19-2009, 04:01 PM
Awesome! Great write up. How is the new sound quality?

B6JoeS4
08-19-2009, 04:39 PM
1000 watts is a ton of power for that tiny pioneer free-air

Brian0473
08-19-2009, 04:43 PM
Dude...how does it sound???

GotRS?
08-19-2009, 04:54 PM
Sounds great to me, not like your big boxes for sure but it's clean sound. 1000W LOL, that's the BS peak figure, but I couldn't find anything else with lower power and smaller.
Someone may want to try a box around the back of the speaker to test, but my old back won't let me crawl in the trunk for that [:D]

B6JoeS4
08-19-2009, 05:06 PM
more details about this vf r32 is see in your garage.......

GotRS?
08-19-2009, 05:17 PM
more details about this vf r32 is see in your garage.......

OT - wife's car
http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp348/Sean-VF/MK4%20R32%20SC/?action=view&current=VFMK4R32RaceGas.flv

TypeRx
08-20-2009, 06:13 AM
Nice writeup -- why did you use the aux power/cigarette lighter wiring for the +12V connection? Or did i just read wrong? I would personally use 8 awg wiring directly to the battery.

Ill 3.0
08-20-2009, 07:12 AM
Wow, thank you. Someone finally tried that Pioneer free air unit. Good to know it sounds good and thanks for the writeup [up].

ahhhudi
08-20-2009, 07:46 AM
Pioneer Premier [up]. Nice write up.

serumk
08-20-2009, 09:46 AM
This is great work. = )

joeycuccaro
08-20-2009, 10:13 AM
Thanks for the great contribution!

GotRS?
08-20-2009, 10:35 AM
Nice writeup -- why did you use the aux power/cigarette lighter wiring for the +12V connection? Or did i just read wrong? I would personally use 8 awg wiring directly to the battery.

It's the obvious way to connect direct to the battery and I thunk hard about it, but there's not an easy way to connect on the RS battery, no aux connections. I didn't want to drill it. I'm sure there's a way but there was the aux power cable just staring at me!

edit: I should add this to the writeup

duvinclunk
08-20-2009, 07:02 PM
Fantastic write up. Thanks.

crafty
08-20-2009, 07:08 PM
THanks for the write-up, book marked :). Relatively spkeaing super cheap mod too! In my ase, I have an after market HU ad have totally been wanted to do this anyway so that I could leverage the sub output tuning, totally looking forward to doing this(cept I have to run RCA's all the way up to the HU, THAT is gonna be fun...). I will probably use the battery for the +12V though, and run the remote turn on from the HU since I have to run RCAs anyway, using the lead from the aux to run an amp would make me nervous, that is a lot of power... and dunno what that circuit is rated to handle amperage wise (although I guess if it has been running a year and you haven't blown fuses or melted anything, I guess it is OK ;)).

I also like Premier... and for subs I am also a fan of JL Audio, Focal, MBQ, Eclipse, maybe a couple of others(each time sub depended on what I needed, how much space I had, power, SPL vs. SQ requirements, etc.). I dunno what the shallow mount sub offerins are now adays, but I am going to look now that i see how easy this is, and just curious if you considered other brands and decided on the Pio for a particular reason.

miserylovesco
08-20-2009, 07:21 PM
Very well done! Thanks for the info man!

crafty
08-20-2009, 07:44 PM
FYI, here is a review comparing 3 8" (including the Pio) running IB. Looks like so far u picked the right speaker, and don't ahve too much power because the Pio needs it, plus given lack of cooling better to buy an amp that has plenty of headroom vs. driving it to the max where the heatsink area cannot keep up :).

This guy says that the Pio's aren't that great, in that they are the best down low, but so not great for midbass, which is bad for his in door application, but imkaes the Pio's PERFECT for a rear deck IB situation where you want the lowest freqs to come from farther away to maximize directional neutrality, and you really DON'T want midbass fill back there to f' up the imaging...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/47930-8-comparo-dayton-rs225-vs-peerless-sls-830667-vs-pioneer-ts-sw841d-shallow-tall.html

will post more if I find any.

GotRS?
08-20-2009, 09:49 PM
Crafty, I saw that report after I'd finished, choice was more luck than judgement, a local audio shop recommended it. You're right, I did do this a while ago, hope I remembered everything! That amp is only cruising for this speaker true.

Thanks for the props folks, nice for me to give something back [up]

whartung
08-20-2009, 10:09 PM
OT - wife's car
http://s426.photobucket.com/albums/pp348/Sean-VF/MK4%20R32%20SC/?action=view&current=VFMK4R32RaceGas.flv

... R32's are AWD, but its on a 2wd dyno...?

GotRS?
08-20-2009, 10:21 PM
... R32's are AWD, but its on a 2wd dyno...?

Listen again, "rear haldex disconnected", you unplug the wire to the electric clutch for the diff. They run 2WD 99.9% of the time anyway.

hbodo08
12-09-2009, 09:01 AM
i got a question does your car alarm still chirp when you lock you car after u did this

GotRS?
12-29-2009, 03:05 PM
Yes it does. Curious why that could possibly be a problem?

iconoclast
12-29-2009, 04:45 PM
awesome write-up... curious if you had to insulate the parcel shelf after you installed the new speakers... with the added bass did it cause rattles or vibrations in the cabin or trunk?

monty2982
12-30-2009, 10:18 PM
So where do the RCA's from the amp hook up to? Are you using a stock HU? Nice DIY by the way.[up]

crafty
12-31-2009, 12:11 PM
So where do the RCA's from the amp hook up to? Are you using a stock HU? Nice DIY by the way.[up]

No RCA's used, no line level input for this DIY, he used the speaker level input that was originally going to the factory sub to feed the signal to the amp (makes things alot easier):



Early stages of fitting. You will need to get the speaker signal from the original connector you took off up by the speaker. Extend that wire pair down to the amp speaker-level input.

jga85
04-20-2010, 05:02 PM
Great Write-Up!

I have a B7 Non-Bose unit with an RNS-E (Originally Symphony II). I was thinking about adding the Pioneer Sub, but I wanted to see if it was possible to use the existing wiring and power to drive the new sub without installing an amp? I will probably install an amp sometime in the future, I just wanted to see if it was possible to only replace the sub for now and worry about the amp at a later time.

Thanks for your help.

dtrizzo
04-22-2010, 07:46 AM
I thought about doing that too, but I just ended up putting a pioneer shallow 12" sub in my trunk, and I mounted the amp underneath the flooring under where the styrofoam is (so it's "underground"). Pretty simple seeing as the battery is in the trunk anyway. it's all removable so no harm, no foul. Good luck!

dparm
10-12-2010, 09:07 PM
Resurrecting this ** anyone installed a new sub but powered it off the Bose amp instead?

WinterRunner
11-02-2010, 12:57 PM
That would be nice ^^^^

dparm
11-02-2010, 03:02 PM
My fear is more that the stock sub is very low power or has very low impedance...and that the Bose amp wouldn't be able to drive an aftermarket one safely.

WinterRunner
11-03-2010, 01:31 PM
Any way to confirm this or is that just speculation? There must me some specs on paper about the stock amp.....

dparm
11-03-2010, 09:06 PM
Historically Bose speakers have been very low impedance. The woofer might have some specs printed on it, if you feel like taking a look.

Club Cheetah
11-17-2010, 01:36 AM
Just bought the sub for 85 bucks online. We'll see how the rest goes. I'm gonna "attempt" going off the stock amp but I wouldn't be surprised if it no workie.

My only question is with that amp. I am not audiophile by any means and am wondering if a 1000w peak is too much for that sub. Would a lower powered amp be better?

dparm
11-22-2010, 07:57 AM
I'd worry more about the RMS rating. The worst thing you can do is UNDERPOWER it.

Post up when you've made some progress. My biggest gripe with the stock sub is how boomy it is ** it isn't accurate or punchy at all.

Club Cheetah
12-10-2010, 08:28 AM
Well I took the old one out and put the new one in last night. Overall without an aftermarket amp it sounds weak obviously. It works and sounds more accurate and less muddy than before.

I also had to amend the installation a little because I couldn't get the speaker to sit inside the stock housing like GotRS did. I actually followed his directions and ended up screwing the speaker to the bottom of the stock housing.

Thanks Audi
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5249236974_bc0721f16f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52015264@N02/5249236974/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5249237538_3c5e96df8f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52015264@N02/5249237538/)

All done
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5249237376_63a40c42c6.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52015264@N02/5249237376/)

jackp311
02-03-2011, 02:35 PM
What was your issue / worry with clearance? Was it sliding it back in (mounting depth) or size of woofer (cutout hole)?

Club Cheetah
02-03-2011, 07:25 PM
Clearance was the sub wouldn't fit inside the rings and close. I just screwed it together and that was that.

jackp311
02-04-2011, 09:36 AM
Was there adequate room to slide the woofer back in? In other words, do you have to use a shallow mount woofer for this? Or would a normal free air 8" work?

Club Cheetah
02-04-2011, 12:38 PM
I used the Pioneer one listed above. It was a pretty tight fit and I didn't want a great loss of trunk space. It seemed to go in pretty quick and sounds good using the free air shallow mount sub.

jpo
02-07-2011, 06:50 AM
Club cheetah, this may be a stupid question but did you just splice the wires to the original speaker wires? Obviously I am not super savvy when it comes to audio installs.

jackp311
02-08-2011, 10:48 AM
To those of you who have done this before: If that sub was 2-1/4" inches deeper, do you think you could still get the enclosure back in? I want to know if I am limited to shallow mount subs.

405Z
03-17-2011, 09:36 PM
To those of you who have done this before: If that sub was 2-1/4" inches deeper, do you think you could still get the enclosure back in? I want to know if I am limited to shallow mount subs.

It just barely fits as is, so I think the answer would be no.

I had an Infinity Basslink but it took up too much trunk space, so I decided to try this out. The Infinity had a lot of bass. This comes nowhere close, but that's not surprising since it's only 8" and free air. The problem I have is when turning up the bass, there is a lot of rattling and resonating from the rear shelf. Some bass heavy music sounds terrible because of this. I think I'm going to try adding some Dynamat to see if that helps.

Club Cheetah
03-18-2011, 01:25 AM
Barely. It almost wouldn't slide back in and I now have a sub in the way in my trunk if I want to put stuff back there. I don't really have any problems with it but I could see how it could be a PITA.

Club Cheetah
06-14-2011, 01:01 PM
So after a few months of procrastinating I finally got around to getting the amp.

Question for the OP...

When you installed it using the speaker line as the input how did you wire it? The amp I got came with a plug with four wires. Which two do I actually use?

diaftia
07-26-2011, 01:24 PM
So after a few months of procrastinating I finally got around to getting the amp.

Question for the OP...

When you installed it using the speaker line as the input how did you wire it? The amp I got came with a plug with four wires. Which two do I actually use?

Most amps, to bridge them and run in mono operation, use left negative and right positive. Leave the other two free.

b spot
10-18-2011, 05:25 PM
I had a Focal in the trunk for quite a while, I spliced the line inputs to the stock amp to run it. I want the space back though, so I ripped it out.

I just found a used TS-SW841D locally, grabbing it for $75 (They go for $130+ up here. We get ripped off). I'm going to try wire it in to the Bose amp for kicks, and then to my tiny little 160W Coustic and I'll let you know if I notice much difference.

my1stturbo
10-18-2011, 10:38 PM
I plan to install that same Pioneer sub with btwn 150-200 watts going to it. I'm still undecided about whether or not i'll be leaving the fronts running off the II+ or if i'll get a 4 channel amp and use 2 channels for the front and bridge the last 2.

dparm
10-19-2011, 07:22 AM
Dedicated amp will always sound better.

my1stturbo
10-19-2011, 08:43 AM
Dedicated amp will always sound better.

Oh, I don't doubt you for a minute. It's just been trying to find an amp that will power the fronts w/ the recommended RMS wattage (90 at 4 ohms) and then getting the sub it's 200. I've found a few 100x4 amps that I'm considering, just have to settle on 1 or get a mono amp for the sub and revisit the fronts down the line.

Lefthook
10-21-2011, 04:29 PM
Hmm. I'm going to have to go pull apart the sub on my Avant and see if it's the same sub just in a different location. This seems like a good cheap quick upgrade to the audio.

b spot
10-24-2011, 09:58 AM
So I have no idea how you guys made your silicone seal, so I went a different route. Everything else is the same, but I left the rubber seal that comes with the sub on. Obviously this is too thick to have the bottom bracket clip in, so I drilled 4 holes through the assembly and screwed it together to have a nice sandwich with the rubber seal to dampen it. Any other way I tried it I had crazy vibrations. This picture isn't mine, but here is where I put the screws through, from the bottom to the top:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lsmG5IQaPCI/TqWKMyJIx6I/AAAAAAAAAIM/uZNcnGwkHr8/s500/sub.JPG

It sounds pretty good. Definitely has much better range. If you're looking to go showtime with this and crank your gain highschool style, it's going to rattle and not sound that great. That wasn't what I was going for, and within reasonable operating range it sounds much better than stock, with deeper and louder bass.

Also FYI, I'm running this off a tiny little 160W Coustic amp. With the gain turned to zero, it's still louder than stock. I don't think I'd really want to throw much amp at this or else you may have to crank the bass on the HU way down, which will drop a lot of the lower mids upper bass from the rest of your system and sound like suck.

b spot
10-24-2011, 08:47 PM
On second opinion I wouldn't do this again. Some songs are brutal because of the rear deck rattling. Any ideas?

405Z
10-25-2011, 06:02 AM
On second opinion I wouldn't do this again. Some songs are brutal because of the rear deck rattling. Any ideas?

Same problem here. I tried applying Dynamat to the rear deck but it only helped somewhat, with bass heavy songs still sounding terrible. I eventually removed the sub and went with a Pioneer shallow mount in an enclosure in the trunk. It takes up very little space and sounds great.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SWX251

my1stturbo
10-25-2011, 02:17 PM
Same problem here. I tried applying Dynamat to the rear deck but it only helped somewhat, with bass heavy songs still sounding terrible. I eventually removed the sub and went with a Pioneer shallow mount in an enclosure in the trunk. It takes up very little space and sounds great.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SWX251

That's a shame to hear. I was planning on going this route in the spring w/ a few layers of dynamat and some type of padding to account for the rear parcel shelf.

b spot
10-25-2011, 08:13 PM
Update:

I spent about 15 minutes shoving rags under the rear deck and have the rattles 90% eliminated. A lot were from the wires leading up to the brake light and trunk light assemblies. I'm actually pretty happy with it now, you can have the bass up pretty loud and it still sounds pretty good, even though normally I don't like to have the sub super loud.

SacAudi
03-13-2012, 04:19 PM
trying to decide what is better to do... a shallow mount sub and box wont take up that much room in the trunk and probably cost near the same... i dont want my rear deck rattling...

S4King
07-26-2013, 02:14 PM
I am going this route but with a JBL GT0804 8" shallow mount recommended by a friend. See how it goes with stock amp.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

papadelogan
07-26-2013, 02:59 PM
I am going this route but with a JBL GT0804 8" shallow mount recommended by a friend. See how it goes with stock amp.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

I am very interested to hear your results; please keep us updated.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

S4King
07-29-2013, 09:19 AM
I am very interested to hear your results; please keep us updated.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

I am still working in this. Sub is sitting at friends garage waiting for sealant to cure. Should be complete by tonight. See how it goes. From the sound of his IS-F it sounds better than OE.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

S4King
07-31-2013, 08:28 AM
Woofer did not work. It was a mistake on my part. Bose requires a subwoofer of 2ohms SVC or less. The JBL I bought was 4ohms SVC. Amp will detect 4ohms and not work. If the JBL was DVC I could of bridged the sub so the amp could read it as 2ohms. I have another sub coming that is 2ohms SVC I will report back once its installed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Datadatum
07-31-2013, 09:06 AM
Woofer did not work. It was a mistake on my part. Bose requires a subwoofer of 2ohms SVC or less. The JBL I bought was 4ohms SVC. Amp will detect 4ohms and not work. If the JBL was DVC I could of bridged the sub so the amp could read it as 2ohms. I have another sub coming that is 2ohms SVC I will report back once its installed.


What model did you order?

S4King
07-31-2013, 01:33 PM
Kicker 10C82

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

S4King
08-03-2013, 06:05 PM
Finished the install of the kicker and I must say I am happy with the sound. On higher volumes it can handle the bass well with no distortion and minimal rattle of the deck. Bass seems deeper more crisp.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

my1stturbo
08-03-2013, 06:11 PM
How'd you get the rear deck exposed to work on it?

S4King
08-03-2013, 10:14 PM
How'd you get the rear deck exposed to work on it?

Follow the first post and when removing sub with enclosure make sure you have a second person pulling the liner up. Don't be afraid to pull straight up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

S4King
08-05-2013, 04:50 PM
After a few days of listening to music and certain songs I feel like the sub is not pushing its full potential. Thinking I might have to run a mono amp to it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

B5SilverS4
11-06-2013, 12:37 PM
Good write up and thread about this. I am an audio guy and even owned my own sound shop here in Tampa a few years ago. Glad to see people are still seeking "better than Bose" sound quality.

cschuster
05-20-2014, 08:57 AM
Well shit, I'm a production engineer at pioneer....should probably use my discount to pick up the 8'' shallow sub! Maybe an amp to go with it.

Am also pondering installing an 8000nex.

papadelogan
05-20-2014, 08:58 AM
And hook a brotha up too!!

Speedy delivery via carrier beagle

cschuster
05-20-2014, 12:43 PM
Haha. As long as it's an inconspicuous amount. I bet a group buy would get me into trouble lol.

papadelogan
05-20-2014, 12:45 PM
So you're saying a group buy of 50+ wouldn't work? Hahahaha

Speedy delivery via carrier beagle

cschuster
05-20-2014, 05:20 PM
So you're saying a group buy of 50+ wouldn't work? Hahahaha

Speedy delivery via carrier beagle

Hah probably not

menace1930
06-25-2014, 08:14 AM
I started this project last night. I am using a Pioneer TS-SW841D and will be powering it with a JL Audio JX 500/1D amp that I will probably keep at a low setting until I can get in and tweak it. Subwoofer install was very straight forward and I ended up just srewing the sub to the housing like Club Cheetah did. I couldnt get the ring to snap closed like the OP did. It may be because his sub was part of the Pioneer Premier line and mine isnt. Either way I am excited to hear this. Ive already ran the RCA's, remote turn on, and bass knob. Now I just need to run the power wire from the battery. Ill post more when complete.

Side by side comparison
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/menace1930/sub1_zps8a5d4d0f.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/menace1930/media/sub1_zps8a5d4d0f.jpg.html)

Subwoofer mounted to the housing
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/menace1930/sub2_zps183eda8d.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/menace1930/media/sub2_zps183eda8d.jpg.html)

Subwoofer inside trunk
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/menace1930/sub3_zps8a34feab.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/menace1930/media/sub3_zps8a34feab.jpg.html)

menace1930
06-25-2014, 08:18 AM
I used a silicone sealant to help secure and create a seal between the subwoofer and the housing. There was still a slight gap in between the housing and sub so I used a 3m black window sealant around the outer edge of the sub to create a better seal. Ive had the strips of that stuff laying around for a while now so I decided to put them to use.

esandes
06-22-2015, 09:26 PM
i had the factory sub removed and had a 8" shallow mount kenwood installed in its place and it rattles with moderate to heavy bass. not impressed. i didn't reuse any of the stock sub mounts.

Guitarmageddon
06-24-2015, 03:24 PM
i had the factory sub removed and had a 8" shallow mount kenwood installed in its place and it rattles with moderate to heavy bass. not impressed. i didn't reuse any of the stock sub mounts.

Its probably rattling because your cloth trim is rattling. Mine even does it with the stock sub. Sounds so shitty sometimes you feel like its blown. If you tuck a few rags underneath the trim, it tames the rattle. Its kind of a crappy spot for a sub if you ask me,

esandes
06-24-2015, 06:45 PM
Its probably rattling because your cloth trim is rattling. Mine even does it with the stock sub. Sounds so shitty sometimes you feel like its blown. If you tuck a few rags underneath the trim, it tames the rattle. Its kind of a crappy spot for a sub if you ask me,

i ended up just buying a small sealed enclosure. i hear more rattle than bass for god's sake.

ILVTRANCE
07-03-2015, 06:06 PM
anyone do a b6 Avant yet?

h22wut
08-20-2016, 01:19 PM
Just an update to this thread, but I wasn't really keen on the pioneer unit, so I swapped it out for a kicker 400w 4ohm 8inch woofer.

I also had a different basket design than the one shown, but same basic principle. The mesh grille twists to unlock and come off, and I cut out the center portion so I could mount the sub opposite of factory. After some inspection, I realized that the kicker one fits in very tight, and between my dad and myself we were able to get the 4 slide locks to engage around the top of the woofer. No screws besides the stock ones necessary, it actually bows out a tiny bit (you can see it in the pictures) but not enough to bother me. Hoping to have it back in in the next few minutes, so I'll let you all know how it sounds!http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160820/392e7851a634721122ebcc1e9dba990f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160820/1b9ce7b477ff38627c15744b9462c0cb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160820/642913a68a7dac36dd1afb70a865acee.jpg

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timlog123
09-07-2017, 03:46 PM
Figured Iíd post this since I just used this write up to assist me in my Sub swap and amp install. Surprisingly easier and cheaper then I thought it would be.

I couldnít use the write up completely but only for reference. The Sub I used TSW2002d2 was possibly a bit skinnier and the mounting ring wouldnít have done anything by using sealant. So I ended up piloting some holes into the top housing and just used the old rubberized seal.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170907/8276ff2883e4296a249f5f73f480ef1d.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170907/baaddbb79486e1bd906e09586aa546cd.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170907/c7ff00968fc47bce4ab0db0da9ac0237.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170907/9383aad7f5c72d520af1439e5bcdf11d.heic

Used a DVC Sub. Plenty of room to get it in there. Iíd say itís a fairly big difference. Itís definitely not like having 2-12s but itís good for $150 OTD.


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Rirruto
11-28-2017, 03:23 PM
I was looking at this same sub. Did you run it off the stock amp? If so, how does it sound?