View Full Version : Best shop in the central Seattle area?
Numbersix
08-23-2004, 06:25 PM
I'd like to have a couple things done to my car.
Who can reccomend a decent shop for basic maintenance stuff? Somewhere that really knows their **** about Audis, but isn't outrageous.
Thanks.
SEXICÄN
08-24-2004, 12:54 AM
i can't help you with any in seattle, only some places in the south end. Let me know if you want some names
Numbersix
08-24-2004, 01:26 PM
Thanks for your reply. Feel free to hit me up with what you got. I want a good shop, it just becomes a logistical issue if it's too far away.
Hassmeister
08-24-2004, 02:49 PM
If you are interested in a dealer... "University Audi" is good. Never had a problem there.
JorgenBrotnov
08-24-2004, 04:11 PM
Redmond Werkshop in redmond. achtuning is right there as well.
Both places have a great local reputation.
SEXICÄN
08-25-2004, 02:51 AM
yeah i was going to say Achtuning
jeremy@matrix
08-25-2004, 04:59 PM
Originally posted by Numbersix
I'd like to have a couple things done to my car.
Who can reccomend a decent shop for basic maintenance stuff? Somewhere that really knows their **** about Audis, but isn't outrageous.
Thanks.
If you feel like taking a scenic drive to Portland, we can take care of both your service AND performance needs.
Without standing on the soapbox, I can honestly say that our staff can do the finest job of any shop in the NW in regards to anything you need.
Plus, there is no sales tax in Oregon. [:)]
Let me know if we can help any.
Best regards,
Jeremy
Numbersix
08-25-2004, 09:18 PM
Hi Jeremy, it's Jon. [:)]
If I had the time to bring the car down, I would...believe me.
Don't think my schedule will allow it though.
Once I get it fettled, however, I will be in touch about the dyno run. Thanks for the info on that.
littlewhite
08-25-2004, 11:37 PM
Not much choice here. I'll go down to Matrix
jeremy@matrix
08-26-2004, 08:37 AM
Originally posted by Numbersix
Hi Jeremy, it's Jon. [:)]
If I had the time to bring the car down, I would...believe me.
Don't think my schedule will allow it though.
Once I get it fettled, however, I will be in touch about the dyno run. Thanks for the info on that.
Hey, what's up Jon!
I understand regarding your schedule, but please keep in mind that it will take us only once to get it right...we know your time is valuable. [;)]
LMK about the dyno stuff as well.
Take care,
Jeremy
jeremy@matrix
08-26-2004, 08:38 AM
Originally posted by blackknight
Not much choice here. I'll go down to Matrix
Thank you Carbot leader. [:D]
SEXICÄN
08-26-2004, 12:10 PM
i have a question for you Jeremy. I installed some aftermarket upper control arms (CPP https://secure1.nexternal.com/achtuning1/images/cpp_front_control_arms_1.jpg ) and i already took it to a place to see if they could find the place that is making a bad squeeking noise. They found it out and they told me that its was the aftermarket control arms. They also told me that the problems is that the balljoint ends need to be flat(if you need pics to understand i can post some later), but from the pic the balljoints have very high moveability. Unfortunetly so does the other end. Which lies the problems. I had taken it to a mech. and they straightened it out for me, but now, since both ends can move because of being held on by sockets, the unaligned again. Once the mechs aligned it for me the car was very quiet, but now the noise is back. Do you or any of the mechs there at Matrix have any idea what i could do. If you guys can fix my problem there i would be more than willing to drive to Oregon. TIA
littlewhite
08-27-2004, 12:56 AM
you know i told u my rear sqeaks also when i go over bump and uneven surface slowly. Well, before i knew it was my sway bar bushings, so i lub it whenever, but lately it rain alot and most of the sqeaking sound is gone lol strange ~
jeremy@matrix
08-27-2004, 07:17 AM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
i have a question for you Jeremy. I installed some aftermarket upper control arms (CPP https://secure1.nexternal.com/achtuning1/images/cpp_front_control_arms_1.jpg ) and i already took it to a place to see if they could find the place that is making a bad squeeking noise. They found it out and they told me that its was the aftermarket control arms. They also told me that the problems is that the balljoint ends need to be flat(if you need pics to understand i can post some later), but from the pic the balljoints have very high moveability. Unfortunetly so does the other end. Which lies the problems. I had taken it to a mech. and they straightened it out for me, but now, since both ends can move because of being held on by sockets, the unaligned again. Once the mechs aligned it for me the car was very quiet, but now the noise is back. Do you or any of the mechs there at Matrix have any idea what i could do. If you guys can fix my problem there i would be more than willing to drive to Oregon. TIA
Hey Nico,
Unfortunately the heim joint(spherical bearing) ends of aftermarket control arms like CPP makes are bound to squeak a bit because the teflon liner inside will be permeated by water, debris, etc, over time. This is one of the downsides to gaining the performance advantage of aftermarket control arms. What we would suggest is spraying some lithium grease spray in there to keep the joint well lubricated.
Also, there is a possibility that at extreme articulation, the nut itself as you see below could be coming into contact with the outer heim joint housing. This is something we'd have to check out here.
We're more than willing to help Nico. Let me know if you'd like to come down.
Best regards,
Jeremy
jeremy@matrix
08-27-2004, 07:22 AM
PS---We measured some spherical bearings we have here and it looks like they can rotate a max of 27deg before the nut comes in contact with the outer housing....
Cable
08-27-2004, 10:48 AM
The CPP links are squeakers.
You will be oiling them regularly.
The thing to remember when installing a race type installation on a street car is that a race installed part is typically inspected and maintained on a with much greater regularity. Many who have used these links eventually returned them because of the very noise that you are now experiencing. I have the lower rears installed on my car and lube them almost weekly.
The benefit of the uppers is of course camber control and you can now run 255 series tires f/r with the right offset wheels. Other than that they can be a PITA is noise is an issue for you.
SEXICÄN
08-30-2004, 11:30 PM
Originally posted by blackknight
you know i told u my rear sqeaks also when i go over bump and uneven surface slowly. Well, before i knew it was my sway bar bushings, so i lub it whenever, but lately it rain alot and most of the sqeaking sound is gone lol strange ~
Yeha i remember, maybe i will try that on my rears and fronts. The mechs told me that my rear upper bushing are bad and need to be replaced and thats what causing my squeeking in the rear.
As for the CPP fronts, what do you think my best bet to do is? The squeek doesn't bother me as much because i play my music load enough so it drowns out the squeeking. But on the flip side, it doesn't help when i'm trying to have a normal/joking/intimate conversation with someone, and we both get sidetracked and off subject and end up talking about the control arms and why they are squeeking on a newer car. Should i just see if i can return/sell them and just go with some Front Control Arm Kit? Thanks for the help Jeremy and Cable.
Jeremy,
i would be more than happy to take my girl out for a drive to oregon, she hasn't really done any long distances before and it would be good for her to get out more.(she is only drivin on the weekends and never in rain). To add to your comment about the actual nut touching the outer hemi joint housing, there isn't touching when standing still, but it is awful damn close, i would say the clearance is about 2 millimeters. As for when shes moving, i have no idea.
TIA for more info to come
jeremy@matrix
08-31-2004, 08:48 AM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
Yeha i remember, maybe i will try that on my rears and fronts. The mechs told me that my rear upper bushing are bad and need to be replaced and thats what causing my squeeking in the rear.
As for the CPP fronts, what do you think my best bet to do is? The squeek doesn't bother me as much because i play my music load enough so it drowns out the squeeking. But on the flip side, it doesn't help when i'm trying to have a normal/joking/intimate conversation with someone, and we both get sidetracked and off subject and end up talking about the control arms and why they are squeeking on a newer car. Should i just see if i can return/sell them and just go with some Front Control Arm Kit? Thanks for the help Jon and Cable.
Jon,
i would be more than happy to take my girl out for a drive to oregon, she hasn't really done any long distances before and it would be good for her to get out more.(she is only drivin on the weekends and never in rain). To add to your comment about the actual nut touching the outer hemi joint housing, there isn't touching when standing still, but it is awful damn close, i would say the clearance is about 2 millimeters. As for when shes moving, i have no idea.
TIA for more info to come
Nico,
Let us know when you want to come down to tax-free Oregon. :)
Best,
Jeremy
SEXICÄN
08-31-2004, 12:25 PM
tax free is always good, just a question, what would i be looking at around for you guys to check it out, and how much if you can fix the problems. About how much to get the rear upper control arm/or bushing replaced? Do you guys also do alignments, if so also, how much? Thanks Jeremy
bigshrimpin
09-02-2004, 11:02 PM
is there anywhere i can take my car to have the clear headlight mod performed? in the seattle/bellevue/redmond area? i lack the tools and the gusto to do it myself unfortunately. [:(]
SEXICÄN
09-02-2004, 11:21 PM
Achtuning might do it, but i doubt it. I think the CC mod is a DIY
littlewhite
09-02-2004, 11:38 PM
Originally posted by bigshrimpin
is there anywhere i can take my car to have the clear headlight mod performed? in the seattle/bellevue/redmond area? i lack the tools and the gusto to do it myself unfortunately. [:(]
Achtuning does that, bad experience with it from them, so i end up with e-codes.
bigshrimpin
09-03-2004, 12:04 AM
this is for a 2004.5 a4 xenon.. if that clears anything up...
how much do they charge to do it at achtuning? i live pretty near there...
littlewhite
09-03-2004, 12:26 AM
hm.. not so sure for the B6, but for B5 couple of yrs back like in 00 they charge like 1xx, i forgot.
SEXICÄN
09-03-2004, 12:56 AM
there is/was a writeup on how to do it without having to drill anything. All it required was to break the amber reflector
jeremy@matrix
09-03-2004, 09:05 AM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
tax free is always good, just a question, what would i be looking at around for you guys to check it out, and how much if you can fix the problems. About how much to get the rear upper control arm/or bushing replaced? Do you guys also do alignments, if so also, how much? Thanks Jeremy
Hey Nico,
We don't charge to take a drive with you to listen to it. To put it on the lift and quickly check it out, about $34.
Re: fixing the problems....all depends what it will involve. Unfortunately that is a little hard to quote.
To R&R both rear upper control arms in A4/S4/A6/Passat is $54 each side.
Alignments are taken care of by a great shop across the river, less than 10min away.
LMK! We're happy to help you out.
Best,
Jeremy
SEXICÄN
09-03-2004, 10:28 AM
how much for the alignments? I took it to a place here in Federal way that did it for $80, just wondering if the price would be cheaper there. Thanks.
is the $54 include parts and labor? I ask because if i were to find the parts would it be cheaper to install?
jeremy@matrix
09-03-2004, 10:35 AM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
how much for the alignments? I took it to a place here in Federal way that did it for $80, just wondering if the price would be cheaper there. Thanks.
is the $54 include parts and labor? I ask because if i were to find the parts would it be cheaper to install?
$79 for a 4whl alignment.
$54 is for labor only.
We grant no warranty on customer supplied components. So, that is up to you.
SEXICÄN
09-03-2004, 10:39 AM
to get the rears upprs replaced, it will be $______?
so i would be looking at for about everything....
$54 (rear upper)
$54 (rear upper)
$79 (Alignment)
$34 (hoist and check)
$? to fix the front upper control arms
Is this right? Anything i might be missing?
You have been very helpful Jermey
jeremy@matrix
09-03-2004, 10:48 AM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
to get the rears upprs replaced, it will be $______?
so i would be looking at for about everything....
$54 (rear upper)
$54 (rear upper)
$79 (Alignment)
$34 (hoist and check)
$? to fix the front upper control arms
Is this right? Anything i might be missing?
You have been very helpful Jermey
That should be it...
$34 (initial diagnosis)
LR upper control arm w/ ball joint for A4/A6/Passat; $117.23
$54 labor
RR upper control arm w/ ball joint for A4/A6/Passat; $117.23
$54 labor
$79 alignment
$?? to fix front control arms....
You're very welcome for the help Nico---come down and see us. [:)]
SEXICÄN
09-10-2004, 02:10 PM
Originally posted by jeremy@matrix
Also, there is a possibility that at extreme articulation, the nut itself as you see below could be coming into contact with the outer heim joint housing. This is something we'd have to check out here.
This is bit late, but if this were the case what would you guy do it fix it or whatnot?
jeremy@matrix
09-10-2004, 02:16 PM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
This is bit late, but if this were the case what would you guy do it fix it or whatnot?
Probably replace the items.
SEXICÄN
09-12-2004, 09:56 PM
so i would have bought the CPP upper control arms($500), only had them on my car for like 700 miles and all for nothing just to get replaced? Bum deal for me. Maybe i'll sell them or at least try. Maybe OEM control arms are the way to go.
jeremy@matrix
09-13-2004, 10:02 AM
Originally posted by Audi_A4_Quattro
so i would have bought the CPP upper control arms($500), only had them on my car for like 700 miles and all for nothing just to get replaced? Bum deal for me. Maybe i'll sell them or at least try. Maybe OEM control arms are the way to go.
It's really a racecar component. If you don't want to listen to the noises then I'd remove them.